Just some random questions about the sliding door, and the control arms. | Ford Explorer Forums

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Just some random questions about the sliding door, and the control arms.

Brian Skinner

Member
Joined
March 28, 2012
Messages
25
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City, State
Grand Island NE
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 aerostar
I was just wondering if there were any boxed in rear control arms like the mustangs do? Also i did notice that when the a/c is on max setting on the control panel the a/c intermittently will stop working but when set to normal a/c it seems to be normal operation Also i have noticed that when i have been in the second row i do see the outside through the weatherstrip. How do i adjust the slider to get the door to seal better. I know how to adjust the front doors, but not the slider. Getting back to the control arm question, do they make a front control arm setup. I would like to have control arms better than stock. As yall know im not trying to race it just to make it tow better and handle better. Yes i was just thinking of replacing the bushings, but if they have stronger parts that are better than stock that would be more ideal. Any advise or advises would help
 






The top of the sliding door has a set screw adjustment to pull or push it away from the van. In my experience with the sliding door, it's better not to adjust anything if it's working properly. My 1995 van always had issues with the sliding door, and the 1989 van had them for a couple of years. As for the control arms, check Moog's line of parts. I don't know if they make anything better than urethane bushings. I know that the upper ball joints come as replaceable parts unlike the OEM parts which were replaced as an entire assembly.
 






the reason the a/c goes ON and OFF in MAX setting is that you have a cracked vacuum tube. This plastic tube connects to the silver-color metal Actuator which is mounted to the side of the Fan Box, passenger side of the engine compartment, nearest the engine side of the box. It's either a white or a black plastic vacuum tube.

The tube is connected to the Actuator via a rubber Elbow.

pull the rubber elbow from the rear of the Actuator and start checking the vacuum tube for cracks. They crack due to the heat of the engine.

a good trick is to light a cigarrette and blow the smoke into the rubber elbow, you will see where the smoke comes out and that is where the tube is cracked.

depending where the tube is damaged, you might tape it with duct tape or find a splicer to cut the bad section off and splice the two pieces. Usually a splicer can be made of rubber vacuum hose of the correct inside diameter.
 






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