Key won't turn when very cold.

[swhird]

2002 Explorer XLT - I can't turn the key when it is extremely cold. The emergency fix is to warm it up with a hair dryer. Do you think this is moisture related? I live in a very dry climate. Is there a permanent fix? Also, I'm not sure it is just the key cylinder. Is there another part of the interlock that will keep the key from turning?

 

[swhird]

2002 Explorer XLT - I can't turn the key when it is extremely cold. The emergency fix is to warm it up with a hair dryer. Do you think this is moisture related? I live in a very dry climate. Is there a permanent fix? Also, I'm not sure it is just the key cylinder. Is there another part of the interlock that will keep the key from turning?

I'm kind of answering my own questions at this point. I felt from how the key would slightly turn but was then solidly locked that it was likely the tumblers in the lock frozen so I took a lighter and heated the end of the key (where it would contact the tumblers) and the lock turned.

 

[J_C]

Some people like dry lube, but I would try WD-40 flush, then light oil.

If it's really gummed up, you can remove the cylinder for better cleaning. Put the key in, turn it to some position, then there is a hole under the steering column that you stick a screwdriver/etc in to push in on a nub that holds the cylinder in. I'm sure there are youtube videos.

 

[donalds]

My son does locksmithing for a living 90% his day is ignition locks I was surprised to find out they remove the ignition lock clean it with break clean use a little graphite powder for lube

 

[Stynx]

My son does locksmithing for a living 90% his day is ignition locks I was surprised to find out they remove the ignition lock clean it with break clean use a little graphite powder for lube

Brake cleaner is awesome. It evaporates so quickly and cleanly. If OP can get the cylinder out, hose it down and flush it out with copious amounts of brake cleaner, let dry then lubricate.

The other thing is that OP has a 20 year old vehicle and by this time things are just plain getting worn out.

 

[swhird]

Thanks for responding, I will try and clean it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Is the key very old? Do you have a new key to try? Sometimes it could be a combination of a worn key, and an old cylinder. WD-40 usually works pretty fast, and lasts a while.

 

[Stynx]

Is the key very old? Do you have a new key to try? Sometimes it could be a combination of a worn key, and an old cylinder. WD-40 usually works pretty fast, and lasts a while.

The problem with wd40 is that it leaves varnish behind when it dries up. Graphite or maybe silicone oil would be better.

 

[J_C]

^ Flush with WD-40, then light oil. I have never had a varnish problem doing this. It could even be that there is already a varnish problem and then the WD-40 will loosen that up, but to be completely thorough does mean taking the cylinder out and a soak, or aerosol (brake clean, etc) so you start with a clean cylinder, not potentially mixing what you add, with whatever might already be in it. It seems least likely that it would have had silicone oil in it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

WD-40 Company 120077 Lock Lubricant, Clear, 2.5-oz. Aerosol - Quantity 1 https://a.co/d/e7yYpFU

 

[imp]

The problem with wd40 is that it leaves varnish behind when it dries up. Graphite or maybe silicone oil would be better.

WD-40 is a product I once used extensively, until I found it left a sticky, non-lubricating residue behind after I sprayed it on the ways and machine finishes of my Bridgeport Mill. Won't have the **** in my shop anymore.

 

[J_C]

That's why you only use it to flush out (potentially old petroleum sludge which it's good at), then oil. WD-40 (the regular stuff, not their specialty sprays) is not good as the final coating on anything. It's just a water displacer, and fairly effective for a mild solvent to dissolve grease and oil residue without as much risk to plastics.

 

[donalds]

without as much risk to plastics

Most important part imo

 

[Mbrooks420]

WD-40 is a product I once used extensively, until I found it left a sticky, non-lubricating residue behind after I sprayed it on the ways and machine finishes of my Bridgeport Mill. Won't have the shi* in my shop anymore.

WD-40 has a place next to my mill, but it’s for tapping/milling aluminum exclusively.

 

[Stynx]

That's why you only use it to flush out (potentially old petroleum sludge which it's good at), then oil. WD-40 (the regular stuff, not their specialty sprays) is not good as the final coating on anything. It's just a water displacer, and fairly effective for a mild solvent to dissolve grease and oil residue without as much risk to plastics.

That's pretty much it. Not really a good lubricant but ok as a solvent and cleaner. Lock lubrication is a specialty thing.

OP's issue stems from one of two things - too much gunk in the cylinder or wear of the key and pins. Maybe a bit of both. Cleaning it is one thing, lubing it is another. Fixing wear is another thing entirely.