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Looking for new fuel injectors......or, am I?

91kingston

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer
I've posted once before about my 1991 Explorer. Appreciate everyone's help. FINALLY sourced almost all the parts and other obligations out of the way. Ready to get this back together.

What I have not found is if I wanted OEM quality injectors, who should I trust? Brand/seller? There is no mgfr name or symbol on mine (I assume they're EV 1 style). On side lists 90 T F - AA. The other is 280150766. Actually, there is a small mgfr logo but I don't recognize it.

One option: I already bought new O-rings. Find new pintle (?) caps. Clean thoroughly. And install. (side note, I've read about filters on these. Mine appear to not have any)

Option #2 : Buy new ones. But what brand and from whom?

As far as I can tell the vehicle is true to it's stated 90K miles. Been in the family since 93 or 94. I can still see honing on the cylinders :) But everything is 25 years old.

If I can find the caps should I just go for it? What about the screens/filters?


Another question to squeeze in this post. The wiring harness that includes the injectors. Is there any chance of finding a new one? Going to check continuity (actually my dad volunteered) but I hate old, worn, oily wiring. And some of the connector clips have broken but it's still tight.


Edit: I found this place as a possibly source for going over my injectors. http://www.mrinjector.us/ As far as I can find there's no place in Indy anymore. Unless I'm asking the wrong people. Anyone else use this company?
 



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I've posted once before about my 1991 Explorer. Appreciate everyone's help. FINALLY sourced almost all the parts and other obligations out of the way. Ready to get this back together.

What I have not found is if I wanted OEM quality injectors, who should I trust? Brand/seller? There is no mgfr name or symbol on mine (I assume they're EV 1 style). On side lists 90 T F - AA. The other is 280150766. Actually, there is a small mgfr logo but I don't recognize it.

One option: I already bought new O-rings. Find new pintle (?) caps. Clean thoroughly. And install. (side note, I've read about filters on these. Mine appear to not have any)

Option #2 : Buy new ones. But what brand and from whom?

As far as I can tell the vehicle is true to it's stated 90K miles. Been in the family since 93 or 94. I can still see honing on the cylinders :) But everything is 25 years old.

If I can find the caps should I just go for it? What about the screens/filters?


Another question to squeeze in this post. The wiring harness that includes the injectors. Is there any chance of finding a new one? Going to check continuity (actually my dad volunteered) but I hate old, worn, oily wiring. And some of the connector clips have broken but it's still tight.


Edit: I found this place as a possibly source for going over my injectors. http://www.mrinjector.us/ As far as I can find there's no place in Indy anymore. Unless I'm asking the wrong people. Anyone else use this company?

Mr. Injector is where I always buy kits for fuel injectors. I am pretty sure you can get them from rock auto too. The kit comes with three things. Screens, o rings, and pintle caps (these also take spacers). I have never bought a new injector in my life, I always reuse old ones, and have even taken my share from junk yards. My way is to first ohm the injector coil. All you do is set the meter to ohms and measure across the two prongs on the injector. In your case you have bosch type 1 top feed injectors, type 2 are the same but with 4 holes. There is an ohm spec somewhere, but I forget what it is. Something like 11 ohms. What you are really looking for is say 5 of your injectors read 11 ohms plus or minus 0.2 ohms, then the 6th is 17 ohms. That one is bad.

That's all there is to seeing if a fuel injector is bad. Anyone who says fuel injection is more complicated than carburetors doesn't know jack. Fuel injectors rarely go bad, they just get dirty, and that's the trickier part. I start by removing the o rings and pintle cap. Then I use a wood screw to pull out the screen. Then I soak them for about 10 minutes to loosen the gunk. I made a setup with a syringe and a battery so i can fire the injector and flush cleaner through it at the same time. I do this forward and back, then spray with air to dry them. After that its just re-assembly. I do the screen first. I just tap it in lightly with a hammer. Then I put the spacer on the bottom, followed by an o ring, and finally use a heat gun to heat the pintle cap and lightly push that on. Put the top o ring on and you are done.

There are no new wiring harnesses, you can only repair the one you have or pull from a junk yard. You can check continuity if you were having problems with a miss or other issues. An ohm test is better. Realize you have batch fire fuel injection, and the problem would be visible within the few inches of wire to each injector. If it was farther down, you would be missing a whole bank of injectors, and the engine would not run.
 






Thanks for the info.

I checked the ohms and all six are 15.6 with a couple at +/- 0.1.

Looking now at Mr. Injector for my missing parts.

Like I said, my dad volunteered to check the wiring harness so I'm gonna hold him to it ;)

One less thing to fret about.
 






I bought a reconditioned set from this seller on eBay:
http://stores.ebay.com/HP-Fuel-Injection?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

$100 done deal. Flow-matched, leak tested, ohm tested, cleaned, painted, new caps, filters & rubbers.

Flow matching is pretty important especially on batch fire systems. If one injector isn't performing or is leaking, the computer will compensate that whole back or perhaps both banks depending on number of O2 sensors.

You didn't say why you needed them though. I bought a set of the upgraded units and aside from quicker startup, they didn't really improve anything noticeably. It's one thing if you know one or more of yours are bad but if you're just throwing new parts on for kicks, it's probably not the best purchase.
 






Yeah, decided to stop buying new parts.

Main reason for the teardown was cracked heads. As far as I know the injectors were performing just fine. Was thinking "as long as I'm in there......" I guess a thorough cleaning and a rebuild kit and I'm ready to go.
 






I'm with you on the whole "while I'm in there" thing. But, the injectors are pretty easy to replace if you ever have to do JUST them. Plus it gives you an opportunity to re-torque the lower intake manifold bolts. If the injectors were the least of your problems before, run a screw into the baskets/filters, replace them and the o-rings and call it good.
 






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