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Manual Hubs

SVO

Meow
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City, State
Smithville/Austin, Tx
Year, Model & Trim Level
08' Suzuki SX4
On the 1st Gen's what are you all using to convert over to manual locking hubs?

Are you using Bonco II, aftermarket, some off of another vehicle that is compatible?

When on a 4WD run last Saturday and a friend of mine broke one of his auto hubs, cause he rolled back then re-applied power and it snapped the hub, because it was half engauged, I don't want this to happen to me, I'd rather get out and lock the hubs and know thier locked, rather than convience.
 



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I am interested as well. Everyone says WARN's manual hubs are the best.
 






I had WARN manual hubs put on my 94 X cause the automatic hubs were sh*t and never locked fully or unlocked fully. If you are off roading definitely get the WARN manual huns. Mine were put on by by a shop cause i didn't have the time to and they did great. Total cost including labor was about $250 i think
 






if you don't go off road very often then you can go with mile marker for they are cheaper (about $30 less) then WARN. even if you go with WARN you can order a conversion kit from mile marker (cheaper). conversion kit is just a set of bolts and washers so it makes no difference with which brand you will go. and you can as well pull them for couple of $$ from some truck on a bone yard (I would have done that if I knew what was in that conversion kit.
 






Warn, Warn, Warn, I changed mine about 6 months ago. Easy as could be, and they're strong as S**T. Do it you'll never regret it.

:chug: :chug:
 






I've had

Warn manual hubs on my X for about 3 years and had them rebuilt once( @no charge) from a warn dealer.
and it had taken 3 days overnight mail1 to get there 1/2 day to rebuild 1 day to ship back.
The shop I have most of the work that I can't do or don't want to do had sewnt them out for me, So i'm not sure where it was sent to. Or how it was done, I also know that they make a rebuild kit for you do it your selfers.
When I'm going to use the 4X4 I just lock the hubs and drive in 2X4 till I need 4X4 then push the button.
Works great for me in the winter. This last winter I had the hubs locked for almost a month with out unlocking them. All it will no when lock is the front axle, with out the button pushed it not in 4X4.
I
 






im with the rest of the guys ive had warn on every 4x4 ive had and never had a problem for the price difference just fork out the extra couple of bucks and get the best
 






Do you guys know what the part number is for all the parts I would need for my 1992 Navajo/Explorer??

Hubs and washer kits.

That way I know I'm getting the right stuff for the conversion, just want to do the job once and be done with it so I can keep wheeling.


Thanks for all you alls help. :D

And who do you recommend I buy them from??
 






SVO, You can find the info your looking for by clicking here You need to scroll down to the part about converting from auto to manual hubs. Part numbers and everthing is listed. You could probably maybe buy them from warn.com or 4wheelparts.com?


EDIT: Upon further inspection of the warn website, you cannot order directly from the site but you can find a warn dealer near you from the site.
 






Thanx Joey! You rock! :D
 






Nah. Just glad to help. :chug:
 






i am strictly an on-roader and i love my warn manual hubs. i was at first reluctant to switch, but the price of the auto lockers quickly persuaded me to go to manuals. i was afraid that i would have to get out of the truck to switch to 4x4, but like a post several up stated, for most of the winter here in wisconsin, i just left them locked up and when i needed the 4x4, i just pressed the button. no regrets in switching.

az
 






Have to agree with everyone as the Ford dealer here wanted $300.00 per side?? for the automatics, went to local Ford Four Wheel drive fanatic in the town where I live and had Warns installed for $200.00 and about 15 minutes worth of work. Now lock and go need 4X4 push the button, none of that ratcheting and are they locked or not crap.
 






RATCHETING SOUND

Hey jol,
Do you think the ratcheting sound comes from the electronic locking hubs. When i engage the hubs (i guess) i get ratcheting like you wouldnt believe. So i guess if i change to the warn manuals i could get rid of the ratcheting sound?
 






The conversion kit isn't really a conversion kit. It is the stock parts used on explorers that came with manual hubs. Go to your local auto parts store and as for the inner spindle nut, keyed washer, and outer spindle nut for a 91-94 explorer. They are all the same. Most places sell them as a kit as well that have all three in the same bag/box.
 






OL Crony said:
i am strictly an on-roader and i love my warn manual hubs. i was at first reluctant to switch, but the price of the auto lockers quickly persuaded me to go to manuals. i was afraid that i would have to get out of the truck to switch to 4x4, but like a post several up stated, for most of the winter here in wisconsin, i just left them locked up and when i needed the 4x4, i just pressed the button. no regrets in switching.

az
hello: are you telling me you can drive around with the manual hubs locked , without damage to the transfer case , and just push the button for 4x4. I was told this is a bad thing to do , unless people are just really cheap , and the only drawback is poor gas milage , please let me know , josh02333@yahoo.com , thanks , josh
 






SANDSURFER'98 said:
Hey jol,
Do you think the ratcheting sound comes from the electronic locking hubs. When i engage the hubs (i guess) i get ratcheting like you wouldnt believe. So i guess if i change to the warn manuals i could get rid of the ratcheting sound?
Kevin, You have a 98. 95+ models don't have auto hubs, they are solid hubs, and are always turning the front drive shaft. The transfer case is what engages the front driveline. You must have some other problem. If you could give us a more precise detail of what's happening, maybe we can tell what wrong.

Josh, You can drive around with the hubs locked, as long as the transfer case is not engaged, that's what the 4wd button is for. It won't bind anything up because the front driveline is running free from the rear driveline.
It's driving around on hard surfaces in 4wd that is a no no. :nono:
 






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