Manual TEMP switch and actuator

[koda2000]

So today I decided to locate the blend door actuator on my '01 ST. Found it right where I expected to (behind the glove box, on top of the heater plenum, left of center). I removed the electrical connector, which I still have to check with my multi-meter. The two screws at the front of the actuator are easy enough to get at, but how the heck do you the one in the rear center. I'm not even sure I can get my 1/4" ratchet in there. I definitely can't get my hand in this space. Hoping one of you who've done this can offer some advice. Maybe my problem is electrical and I wont have to remove the actuator.

Question - How does the manual TEMP switch work? Is it a rheostat, like the dimmer switch, if it is I wouldn't expect to have 8 pins on the actuator's electrical connector. There seems to be 8 markings on the switch face plate, but it's not like the switch clicks as you pass each one.

 

[koda2000]

So today I decided to locate the blend door actuator on my '01 ST. Found it right where I expected to (behind the glove box, on top of the heater plenum, left of center). I removed the electrical connector, which I still have to check with my multi-meter. The two screws at the front of the actuator are easy enough to get at, but how the heck do you the one in the rear center. I'm not even sure I can get my 1/4" ratchet in there. I definitely can't get my hand in this space. Hoping one of you who've done this can offer some advice. Maybe my problem is electrical and I wont have to remove the actuator.

Question - How does the manual TEMP switch work? Is it a rheostat, like the dimmer switch, if it is I wouldn't expect to have 8 pins on the actuator's electrical connector. There seems to be 8 markings on the switch face plate, but it's not like the switch clicks as you pass each one.

Update:
According to the wiring diagram there are 5 wires on the actuator connector.

The TEMP switch is called a TEMP potentiometer. There appear to be only 3 wires that go from the TEMP switch to the TEMP/blend door actuator.

The 3 wires coming from the TEMP switch are labeled:
Air Temp DR Resistor wiper
Air Temp DR Resistor +
Air Temp DR Resistor -

There are 2 more wires in the electrical connector. One is 12V power w/key ON and the other is a ground. I've tested the electrical connector and I have power w/key ON and a ground.

I don't know how to test the 3 wires coming from the switch/potentiometer (seems to be a fancy name for a variable resistor) but I would think if the switch was not functioning, the actuator would still would work on full HOT. So this is leading me to believe the problem may be the actuator. Thoughts?

 

[sr139fox]

Check You Tube. I remember seeing several videos on ford bleed door actuators. The actuators are a known problem. Dave p.

 

[koda2000]

Check You Tube. I remember seeing several videos on ford bleed door actuators. The actuators are a known problem. Dave p.

Thanks, I'll check it out.

I watched the YouTube video by 1AAuto. It looks like they had quite a bit more room to get at the rear bolt than I have, but maybe it was just the angle. Someone suggested grinding down an 8mm socket to get a bit more room to get the ratchet in the tight space. I'll see what I can do. I'm going to try listening to actuator, with my stethoscope, to see if I hear it doing anything before removing it to test it visually.