need help on several issues, please advise:

[FordLover]

background: 1994 Explorer Sport, 5 speed manual, 2wd, 61,000 miles

Problem #1
I have an intermintant ABS light. everything will function fine ususally, the only time the ABS light will come on is after a warm restart when it is warm outside. must be a componet that is outside the vehicle, and only has problems when it gets warm. before the abs light comes on, the abs works great.

Problem #2
occasional check engine light, this is very rare to see, and when it does come on, it rarely lasts any longer than 30 seconds.
I don't see any performance difference in the vehicle, but it does seem to accelerate faster sometimes, and much slower others. Sometimes it will try and die when it is cold, and you let the rpms run down too low when releasing the clutch in gear. this problem imediatly dissapears after 20 seconds or so.

Problem #3
the a/c has a leak in it, the a/c shop says they can't find the leak, and it must be inside the vehicle. what is this a/c componet called, and how much does it cost, also, what is expected for labor to r/r the part?

Problem #4
Transmission has recently started making a whining noise, most noticable while slowing for a stop, the noise does not change, doesn't make any difference if the transmisson is in gear, or clutch is pressed or depressed. the noise seems to match vehicle speed, once stopped, the noise stops too. I can't seem to replicate the noise when moving in reverse.

Problem #5
this problem showed up last week, about a month after the problem above. I was pulling my friends boat out of the water (an 18ft. welcraft, approx. 2-2,500 lbs.) when the clutch started to slip, and wouldn't turn the rear tires at all, even when the clutch was fully released. I managed to get it out by backing in the water a little more, and making a run at it. I've noticed a lot of clutch slip in everyday driving since then, and I think it's time for a cluch job.
one note, we bought the truck with 24,000 miles, and it has always had a very stiff clutch pedal. My mother also had a 95 manual that had the very same stiff clutch. is this just normal for explorers with manual transmissions?

TIA
-Martin
'92 Taurus SHO
'94 Explorer Sport
'00 Mountaineer (mom's ride)

 

[ntrpriz]

For #2, pull your engine codes if you can. It sounds like it is probably an O2 sensor or the EGR.

 

[fordkrazy]

problem 1 not sure but i can give you the procedures for getting the codes from the computer on it. or if you have a code scanner you can use that a get the codes from a shop manual.

problem 2 does the CEL just come on at speed or will it come one when you stop? and as for the stalling does it do it when its warm out. you may just need to let the engine stabilize before you start going. i know mine doesnt like cold weather at all...i dont think any older car does.

problem 3 its the evaporator core and its not a real expensive part but the labor will be crazy cause you have to tear apart the whole a/c system with the exception of the compressor. and you may have to take out the dash but im not sure. should be able to get to the part from the engine compartment.

problem 4 probably isnt your transmission. mine makes a whining noise if its stoped in neutral but if i depress the cluch then it goes away. your problem is probably the differantial. it can sound like the transmission. does it change when you turn? if so i would definately say diff.

problem 5 mine has a stiff pedal too. its cause the slave cylinder is crap. when i bought mine 4 years ago with 50k the tranny was rebuilt and for a couple of days it had a light pedal and shifted silky smooth. and yes you need a new cluch. ive been babieing mine for a year now and it does the same thing every now and then. i have been getting worse gas mileage too. hopefully i can hold out till i can get a t-5 for it. dont want to put a cluch in a tranny that will ruin it in a matter of weeks.

 

[mdrut]

ac leak, compressor or line and they don't want to mess with it..Run a can of dye thru it, get it at any parts store..CEL, sensor is sticking, run the codes it should be stored..Tranny whine, repace the clutch and have it serviced..sounds like low fluid level, could be leaking out the front, causeing the clutch to slip..ABS will also show up with code run..Good luck

 

[TPLYNCH]

Check those infamous rubber plugs on the transmission to make sure they have'nt fallen out, leaving the transmission high and dry. If I'm not mistaken, they're on the top of the tranny.

 

[FordLover]

thanks

ok, the A/C system has had a dye run through it already, I took it to a shop and spent 91 dollars for them to tell me to bring it back in when it stopped working, and I could pay them another 90 bucks to diagnose what part had failed. Keep in mind that the compressor, dryer, oraface(sp?) tube and several lines are brand new, so I know the problem must be inside the vehicle (evaporator core, thanks!) since they were unable to find the freon leak under the hood anywhere. I'm going to call a different shop tomorrow and find out what they want for a evap. core replacement and a R134 recharge.

As far a the check engine light goes, it comes and goes when it pleases, it came on yesterday for about 5 seconds about 2 mins after I started driving, I drove 80 miles to the beach at about 90mph+ and slung it around in the sand trying to keep up with my crazy friends and no check engine light the entire trip down or back. I've always thought this was O2 sensors, but I heard it might be a fuel pressure regulator or something, and that might explain the occasional loss of power in high rpm.
If someone could tell me what color wires I'm suposed to jump to read the codes, that would be great.
also, the ABS has a self testing ability too, but again, I'm not sure which wires to jump to start the test.

As for the wanting to die after starting and taking off, I will just give it a little more time to run before I try and take off, or just give it a little gas =)
Thanks guys

 

[fordkrazy]

get a code scanner. its alot easier than jumping wires and it does more than get the codes. you wont regret it!!

 

[LukeDog3D]

Problem # 1 could be that the abs sensor is simply crusted with debris from inside the differential. The sensor is located on top of the pumpkin, and has a wire harness connected to it. Pull off the wire harness, unscrew the little bolt, and pull out the sensor. Clean it off good and then put it back in with a little bit of black silicon around the part that touches the sides of the differential to seal it. It could even be something as simple as the wiring harness not being connected. Check that first before you pull out the sensor. If it doesnt work after all of that, just buy a new sensor. My friend got one for his ranger for 10 bucks at a junkyard.

good luck

 

[mecforyou]

prop. #1 and 2# YOU HAVE to read the codes. Don't start replacing parts the code will give you a starting point
Prob. #3 I do AC work every day and if the sys. is low there is a leak and most of the time you will see oil where the leak is. Look at all the lines and around the comp. pay close att. to the front seal. Thats between the cluch and the front of the comp. if its oily and that the leak. A leaking service port usely wont show oil and if the shop puts the gages on they will never find the leak becaus they pluged it. Evaporator cores don't go bad very often but if they get under the car and stick the sniffer up the drip hose if the core is leaking it will go off. I have had a hard time finding leaks but if the shop know what they are doing ther will find it.
Prob. #4 have them check the trany when they are doing the cluch from #5 if it is slipping it's bad or the slay cyl. is bad not releaseing the cluch all the way and by now you have burnt the cluch.

 

[FordLover]

well, what I'm trying to do is get all the little things all fixed up so I can sell it. But I don't want to buy a code scanner and a repair book with all the codes listed just to turn around and sell the truck.

there is a rental car company that sells there 4x4 Explorer XLT's after they have been on the fleet for so long, and they sell them for 16,000 bucks, not bad considering most of them still are in warranty with about 25-30K miles.

-Martin

 

[devhawes]

Your a/c evaporator is not that hard to change. I just pulled mine out looking for a leak (Still have not found the leak). On my 91 I pulled the evaporator in about 1 hour and about 2 hours to put it back in. You can do it all from the engine compartment except for one bolt under the dash. It wasnt hard at all, just read the manual over before starting. Good Luck.

 

[oahrens]

Fue Pressure Reg test

If the CEL comes on with the power loss----
1. Clean MAF with CO2 safe cleaner.
2. You can test the fuel pressure at high RPM's to check for bogging.
3. Reset the computer. {disconnect battery for 20 mins then drive for 30}

This really seems like the least of your probs but any help is good help.

BTW- check boards or Chiltons for procedures on 1,2,3.

 

[taxx]

#3 - Evaporator....

Well, I too had a HUGE leak in my A/C system. Ran a dye though it and the only thing I could tell was that it was coming from behind the accumulator...

I took about hour or so and disasembled it so I could find some stains. Yep... It was the Evap Core. I don't think it was as easy to get out as some may say. Not only did I have to dissasemble the A/C system, but I had to remove the washer and coolant containers and the air filter housing. There are some difficlut screws and stuff to get too if you don't remove those. Also had to disconect the heating core hoses that are full of coolant! I found the part at a local shop for about $130. I think it will probably take about 2 hour to reasemble everything, then refill the R134 and the Coolant that I lost. Definately a money saver though if you have the time a facilities to do it.

My question is this:

The Haynes manual says that you must replace the accumulator/dryer if you are replacing the evap. core. Is this true? Also how do you disconect and reconect the hoses that are on conected by what appears to be the hose wraped around the other hose and crimped around? It kind of looks like a washer but it is part of the lower hose. I know I didn't explain it very well but someone who has done it will understand. Thanks.

 

[fordkrazy]

those connections you are talking about is fords quick disconnect that no one can quickly disconnect unless you have the special tool. your service manual will tell you about it(if it is any good some arnt) as far as replaceing the accumulator and dryer. well i would think that it would be a good idea if it isnt too expensive cause it will get rid of alot of contaminates from the system and probably work better but i dont think it would be absolutely critical to replace it.

 

[fordkrazy]

those connections you are talking about is fords quick disconnect that no one can quickly disconnect unless you have the special tool. your service manual will tell you about it(if it is any good some arnt) as far as replaceing the accumulator and dryer. well i would think that it would be a good idea if it isnt too expensive cause it will get rid of alot of contaminates from the system and probably work better but i dont think it would be absolutely critical to replace it. oh and the reason you were having trouble with your ac box coming apart is cause you have the 95+ style. they compressed all that junk into an even smaller area so the v8 would fit.

 

[taxx]

Well I got my evaporator replaced. Since all the shops recomend replacing the condensor at the same time (for $47) I went ahead and did it. It was a piece of cake to get everything reinstalled. The only problem I envcountered is that they gave me the wrong condensor... I will get it replaced tomorrow and get the new one in and recharge it all!