Need your strategies for yanking an engine at a U-Pull-It

[geosnooker2000]

Interested in getting in and out efficiently. I need a different long block (at least) to go in my tired 93 Explorer Sport w/ manual transmission (320,000 miles and burning 2 1/2 quarts of oil per tank of gas).

I ran by my local U-Pull-It today and got a printout. There are 45 vehicles that are possibilities.

(1) 91
(3) 94s
(4) 95s
(2) 96s
(4) 97s
(12) 98s
(4) 99s
(10) 00s
(5) Rangers

The biggest problem I see is the exhaust flange bolts. I guess the first step is find the lowest mileage OHV 4.0s and see which ones will unbolt at the exhaust flanges the easiest? The other option is to unbolt the exhaust manifold. Which one will be less trouble?

What other criteria should I use to single out the engine I want? What other trouble areas on the engine will I have to contend with?

Thanks in advance,
George

 

[corkey]

look for one that was in a crash from the back or the side,. and avoid rollovers


that way you knew they were driving it right before it went to the yard,,
some towed in can look pretty good,, but have hidden issues,

unless you can hear it run, i would assume it may have issues,,

 

[geosnooker2000]

look for one that was in a crash from the back or the side,. and avoid rollovers


that way you knew they were driving it right before it went to the yard,,
some towed in can look pretty good,, but have hidden issues,

unless you can hear it run, i would assume it may have issues,,

I am planning on taking it apart down to the point where I can gauge the cylinder walls/ring condition, and take the heads to be tested.

 

[Maniak]

I like to use my cordless sawzall to cut the exhaust just down from the flange if the flange bolts don't just come out. Its not like the exhaust cross over pipe is a rare piece...

I also bring in a co2 bottle and air tools.. It makes short work of things. I pulled rear spring in under 10 minutes per side. Heck it was fast/easy enough that I pulled a 3rd spring from a different truck just to see if I wanted them from the truck I pulled them from or a different truck.

~Mark

 

[geosnooker2000]

@ Maniak - Since it seams like you've done an engine pull before,

1) transporting... is the oil pan going to get dented all up with the weight of the engine sitting on it while on the trailer on the way home?

2) Can you unbolt the tranny from the block in a "U-Pull-it situation", or is it best to pull them together and dissect them outside the truck?

 

[Maniak]

I always toss an old tire (no rim) into the truck and put the engine into that. The last one I moved was sitting in a 32x11.50r15 tire. The pan in the explorer will take it much better than a normal stamped steel one but I'd still put it in a tire to try to keep most of the weight off it.

As for how to pull it.. Unless your going to cut everything out that is in front of the engine your not getting it out at a u-pull it with the trans attached. Heck, most times you won't get it out like that even in a home garage.

I've only pulled one motor at u-pull it place but I have pulled a few 4.0's (or helped) at other peoples houses. I try to bring my 2ft and 3 ft long extensions when so I can use air tools (impact wrench) and reach the converter bolts while sitting in front of the vehicle. Also bring a wobble end for you long extensions or a wobble socket set. It makes pulling the bolts off the back of the engine (trans bolts) much easier to pull.

When at a u-pull it you can be a little less careful with things like the radiator fan hitting the radiator etc.. Also u-pull it yards usually have those big a-frame engine hoists which seems to be easier than a normal engine hoist.

Oh yea, bring some chain so you can hook the hoist up to the motor easily.

~Mark

 

[geosnooker2000]

I always toss an old tire (no rim) into the truck and put the engine into that. The last one I moved was sitting in a 32x11.50r15 tire. The pan in the explorer will take it much better than a normal stamped steel one but I'd still put it in a tire to try to keep most of the weight off it.

As for how to pull it.. Unless your going to cut everything out that is in front of the engine your not getting it out at a u-pull it with the trans attached. Heck, most times you won't get it out like that even in a home garage.

I've only pulled one motor at u-pull it place but I have pulled a few 4.0's (or helped) at other peoples houses. I try to bring my 2ft and 3 ft long extensions when so I can use air tools (impact wrench) and reach the converter bolts while sitting in front of the vehicle. Also bring a wobble end for you long extensions or a wobble socket set. It makes pulling the bolts off the back of the engine (trans bolts) much easier to pull.

When at a u-pull it you can be a little less careful with things like the radiator fan hitting the radiator etc.. Also u-pull it yards usually have those big a-frame engine hoists which seems to be easier than a normal engine hoist.

Oh yea, bring some chain so you can hook the hoist up to the motor easily.

~Mark

Catalytic converter bolts, or torque converter bolts? I wish I could watch someone who knows what they are doing (like you and some other people) do this on a YouTube or something before I go out there and get frustrated after I can't get a bolt off or something like that.

 

[Maniak]

Sorry, I meant the torque converter bolts..

Keep in mind, I'm in Arizona so I don't deal well with rusted/stuck bolts.

If I'm pulling things in a yard and they won't come free I use the sawzall to cut the part off (sometimes just the bolt, but not usually) so I can get it home and work on it there. This would include the exhaust when pulling the engine.. If I couldn't get the flange bolts to come loose I'd just cut the down pipes using the sawzall.

The exhaust bolts is the only thing I'd be worried about.. Other than that its just normal pull the engine..

BTW.. if you pull the radiator you can pull the motor with all the front accessories on BUT most yards will want you to pull all the accessory parts off and that can be hard to when the engine isn't mounted to anything unless your using impact wrenches.

~Mark

 

[IAmTodd]

Bring a sawzall and cut the exhaust after the manifold flange. You can deal with the bolts at home them.

I've pulled a trans at a pick n pull, it's not ideal but bring a couple buddies and all the tools you can and it's not too bad.