new around here...

[MountainsTew]

Hello everyone.. i guess i'm the new guy now, sorry if i'm taking someone's title from them... anyways, I am very glad I found this forum because I am just starting to install my system and I have a feeling I could really find some valuable information here...

I know a whole crapload about car audio.. just not much about Explorer installs... I am driving a (new to me) 1997 EB Explorer and it has the JBL amplified system with the small p.o.s subwoofer fartin' along in the rear quarter-panel. My question is, since I am planning on amplifying the front channels, as well as a sub amp, can I use the front channel speaker wire only for the LOC. Basically, in an amplified JBL system, are the front channels full-range or are they crossed over b/c of the separate sub? If they are full range, I can convert just the front channel to low level then run that signal thru a 2 way active crossover to get my LP signal (send to sub amp) and my HP signal (send to frontstage amp then to comps) then just cut the cords to the p.o.s. OEM sub. If the fronts are already crossed over, I don't know what to do... if anyone could help with a solid answer to this question, it would be much appreciated. Also, let me know if you need further explanation... Thanks!!

One more thing... how hard is it to wire speaker wire thru to the front door speaker pods? I have some VERY nice speaker wire (Monster M1.4 biwire) I would like to use with my Boston Z6's, only the wire+insulation=about 4ga. thickness... will it fit?? Any input, again, would be much obliged...

stuart pieper, newbie

 

[MountainsTew]

oh yeah, my idea with this system is to use the factory amp for rear fill speakers only...

my ultimate goal with the system is to try and create the absolute best possible sound from the original factory Head Unit. Then once I am there I will replace the HU with a high end one and have wonderful SQ.

System Configuration:

Optima Yellow Top
Monster Cabling, Power and Signal
sub amp: JL 500/1
Monster 1Farad Cap
sub: Elemental Design E15kd4
frnt amp: US Acoustics USX-4065 (bridged to 160Wx2)
frnt spkrs: Boston Z6 Components (frickin awesome!)
XO EQ: Phoenix Gold EQ215ix
Eventual HU: Clarion drx-9575rz (one of the last greatest)
Eventual rear amp: USX-2050 (50Wx2)
Eventual rear spkrs: Boston NX-87 5x7 Coax

 

[MrExplorer]

Im not sure why you would want to go through all the work to get the factory system sounding good then switch to a aftermarket HU. Your talking about taking line level and converting to low level. The diagrams i see for that radio is 4 pages long. I can scan and zip them up and email it to you. Its a fairly complex system to be doing all that work only to switch it. Your better off putting in the new HU and running fresh rca's and speaker wire from the start. You could utilize the new HU to run some wattage to the rear speakers. I would feel comfortable running low wattage from a HU through the factory wiring to the rear speakers. You could use the factory amp for the rears but everybody ends up at one point bypassing the amp since its such a POS. Personally i would amplify all 4 channels with a real amp and putting new speakers in the rear. As far as running new wires to the door its not that big of a deal. The drivers side is a bit tighter due to the amount of wires comming through . I used a fishtape to pull them thru. A coathanger would work fine also. Just my $.002

 

[MountainsTew]

well, its called anxiety... the less you are paid, the more anxiety you experience, because you cant wait to get the money you need to complete the system. Its hard to leave a brand new sub and box, amp, front comps, front amp, etc. lying around for 2 mos. until i get the money together for the HU, rear spkrs and rear amp. As for the converting of line level to low level, the need for pages of electrical diagrams is unnecessary. You simply take the Front speakers wires and send them into the LOC then whammo you have low level, although its probably a noisy signal, it is easily derived... Also, I only plan on using the factory amp for a short period of time, until I get the HU. The Clarion HU that I am looking into is being considered against a Pioneer Premier DEH-P740MP, which has internal wattage for the rears. Eventually, the entire factory system will be bypassed completely, but for the next couple months I'm trying to figure a way to utilize what I have with whats already installed. I know it sounds like a lot of work but I have a rational amount of money and time and I need bass, ya hear me? NEED IT!

stu

 

[Rscotts1]

Welcome to the site MountainsTew!! This is an excellent site for info and meeting new people with the same interests. As far as getting your stock HU to work with everything, seems like it would be a pain in the butt to me....running all the wires, etc. If it was me I would just wait to get an upgraded HU and then start from there, or pre-wire everything (run all wires, RCA's , etc) and don't hook up anything until you get the HU. Just my thoughts!! Anyway, again, welcome to the site.

 

[MountainsTew]

Originally posted by Rscotts1
Welcome to the site MountainsTew!! This is an excellent site for info and meeting new people with the same interests. As far as getting your stock HU to work with everything, seems like it would be a pain in the butt to me....running all the wires, etc. If it was me I would just wait to get an upgraded HU and then start from there, or pre-wire everything (run all wires, RCA's , etc) and don't hook up anything until you get the HU. Just my thoughts!! Anyway, again, welcome to the site.

Thank you very much for the warm welcome! And I think I may take your advice here guys.. no since in being stubborn and rushed... I just disassebled my door panels today and replaced the front speakers (ahem, speakeR, only the driver side did I test...) with A clarion 3way I had a pair of lying around.. at any rate after I got the door back together successfully (I actually managed to not break any retainer pins) I fired the stereo up and guess what! no sound... hmmm then i go to roll my window down.. it wont roll down, neither will it lock or unlock or control the mirror... i "shorted a circuit in the bulk head connector" said the ford dealer and BAM $113 labor to get everything BACK to stock.. I'm a blithering fool I tell you... when it comes to booksmarts, I'm there.. but give me a screwdiver and watch the atrocity... Anyways, I ran power remote and signal from hu to rear easy cheez and i think that speaker/hu installation will be left to the pro's.. i can handle amps/subs but i hate the cosmetic ****... thanks again, glad I am welcome...

stuart p

 

[Rscotts1]

Ouch!! Sounds like you had a busy day. Glad to hear that everything is back to normal.....but $113.00?:mattmoon: