no 4 wheel drive | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

no 4 wheel drive

snicklfritz

Member
Joined
August 19, 2011
Messages
30
Reaction score
0
City, State
Paradise ,CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 ford explorer
Hello i have a 96 explorer 4.0 ohv and am not having any luck with my 4x4. i can feel the transfer case lock in, and i have jacked up the front wheel and it is locking in but, if i go to climb a step grade front tires will not spin. I am getting vacuum to front actuator and i know transfer case is locked in what else could there be please help
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I have the same problem with 96 Control Track. I have been told here on this forum, that it is the clutch pack in the transfer case. I have done the brown wire mod with no improvement. However last winter I had no problem getting around in the snow or on icy roads. So, maybe there is some pull from the front. Or maybe it is the limited slip rear.
 






that was going to be my next question. so there is clutch paks in the transfer case. so what transfer case would i need if i wanted to get rid of control trac t-case what years of other t-case
 






are you saying that your back wheels are spinning up the steep hill while your fronts aren't? do you have / get a flashing 4w lights indication on your dash?
 






yes that is what im sayin and i can locker down to 4 low and spin them and front tires will not spin but back will but if i jack it up it is locked in. but no lights are flshing
 






OK... thanks for added info. However, you need to do more. First, go for a drive in 4w auto mode, what do the lights indicate then at "highway speed" (ie. 30-40 mph)... do they flash? Ultimately, in 4w low, I don't believe traction control system comes into play in 4w lo (other than controls on how to get there and prevention of speed limits). Sounds like your clutch in the transfer (magnetically coupled) has a problem... but the 4w auto should indicate by flashing during "speed test".
 






Thanks Budwich, I'll try that next time I go out. No one mentioned that last time I asked about the problem. I am used to manual T/C, and never use 4wd on hard surface road unless snow/ice. Thanks again.
 






i did try what you speak of. no flashing, they actually went out and it was stuck in 4 high auto then shut off the truck and started it again and lights came back on indicating 4 high then i was able to shift out of 4 high. also not sure if this is correct operation but i can not switch to 4 high auto without being stopped and in neutral. i always thought that you should be able to shift on the fly
 






OK again... more info ... five alive... :-) actually you have located your problem perhaps. Again observations are very important and need to be "accurate". Basically, the "thing" should not complete getting into 4w drive "auto" (light lit) until the front and rear axles come up to speed IF you have thrown the switch while driving. Your observation is somewhat "unclear" as to whether you have turn the switch while stopped then get the 4w hi light then begin moving and the light goes out..... usually this will result in flashing which usually indicates that the front axle and back axle are not with "speed tolerances" and the system "kicks" out of control track to prevent damage. Of course, on the "low side" of things (ie. stopped and neutral), the system should "lock" (vacuum operation, etc) and go from there (preventing speeds from reaching a certain range). I suspect you have a clutch issue. You can check to see if your "brown wire" has power... that's what activates the clutch.... and then go from there, potentially, doing the "brown wire mod" (search) if there is no power.
 






ok so while driving 25mph i switched to 4 auto and no lights no nothin i have to stop put it in neutral then it switches. When the light went out i was driving about 30 had it in 4 auto and the light went out. but i could tell by the way it acted while turning that front axle was still locked. i stopped and turned off truck then started truck light came on i then shifted to neutral turned switch off and the light went out got up to speed and front axle was unlocked.
now on the electric motor on t-case is that where to test for power and if not where does the brown wire enter the t-case so i can test it for power
 






As I indicated, use the search on brown wire. As for the rest, basically I think it is "working in some form". Your transfer case speed sensors could need cleaning so that the system is able to reliably read the speed of the front and back axle.... that is basically why you have to stop to get the light to come on.... cause "0" is zero. From there as you found that the light goes out at "some speed".... that is probably because the system is unable to maintain a proper speed between the front and back axle so it has dropped the 4w hi BUT my understanding (and I see it on my truck), is that the lights should flash so that you have an driver indication that 4w auto is not "fully function". As for the front, the "auto hubs" have "kicked in" in some form cause you were getting some form of power to them so that is probably what you are feeling.

Ultimately, though you likely have some form of clutch issue (either mechanical or electrical / magnetic) as 4w lo doesn't appear to "pull". I know on mine (I have 4w flashing issues) that I can put into 4w LO and ready go up car rams while 4w HI just pushes the rams along (weight of the truck plus only pushing with rear wheels)... so I have some "clutching". I haven't clean my sensors cause I can't get them out of the case (tough) and I don't want to spend any money on getting it serviced. 4W basically works for what I want it to do.
 






well thank you so much. i have done the search on the brown wire, and from what i have read so far, its under the seat and behind the stereo, it just depends on how you want to approach.
so this is what i understand, there is a magnetic clutch in t-case, there are speed sensors in t-case and rear end, a computer watches these analog signals and electrically controls the clutch to transfer power to front and rear wheels depending on where it needs it. so either the clutch is no good, or the brown wire has no power and the computer that controls the system would be no good. Is this correct
 






Do all four of your tires match exactly in brand, model, size, and treadwear?
 






well basically good.... note that the brown has to eventually go to the transfer case that where it for sure... trace from there would be wise. The speed sensors of concern are only in the transfer case... others deal with other things. Your "three guesses" are probably the three things to check. OF course, the "central thing" would be in 4w lo, does the brown have voltage at all times which is basically the "brown mod on a logic basis".... :-)
 






yes all tires are super swamper tsl 32" But the lady i got it from had mis match's on it but i know for a fact that she never ran it in 4 wheel
thank you budwich for helping i will find and check the brown wire and the speed sensors
 






Featured Content

Back
Top