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No Crank, No Start, Flashing Theft Light: SOLUTION

marfar

Member
Joined
May 13, 2010
Messages
12
Reaction score
1
City, State
Glendale, AZ
Year, Model & Trim Level
2002 XLT
SOLUTION:

I have a 2002 Explorer XLT, 4x4, 4.0L. I went to start my car the other morning and I had a no crank, no start condition with a rapidly flashing theft light. I could hear relay(s) click when I put key into start position, but that was all. No clicking noises from starter. Condition lights on instrument panel did illuminate. Mileage showed ok. Remote key fob worked, as well as exterior keypad and interior lock/unlock switch. Both of my keys would not start the car.

All fuses and battery checked out fine. I could crank the engine using a remote starter switch.

It seemed, with these results, that it must be a problem with the PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) not sending the code from my keys to the PCM. Since other systems in my car seems to be working, I temporarily ruled out the PCM. So I decided to go to my local junk yard and purchased an ignition immobilizer, also known as a PATS Transceiver, part #1L2T-15607-AB for $6. I priced them on ebay for about $16 and my local Ford dealership for about $30. This part is located on your ignition key tumbler, it is black and encircles the tumbler, and has one cable attachment.

Disconnect your battery cables before continuing. You can get to it by removing the two clam-shell covers on your steering column, removing 3 small bolts that hold on a wire shroud running along the right bottom of the column, and one bolt that holds on the transceiver. Don't forget to gently disconnect the wire connection first. Slide the transceiver off of the tumbler.

Put new (new used) transceiver and install in reverse order.

BEST PART - this fix DOES NOT require new keys, or reprogramming your old keys, or flashing your PCM!

Re-attach battery cables.

My car started right up!

Hope this helps those of you having a similar issue.
 






SOLUTION:

I have a 2002 Explorer XLT, 4x4, 4.0L. I went to start my car the other morning and I had a no crank, no start condition with a rapidly flashing theft light. I could hear relay(s) click when I put key into start position, but that was all. No clicking noises from starter. Condition lights on instrument panel did illuminate. Mileage showed ok. Remote key fob worked, as well as exterior keypad and interior lock/unlock switch. Both of my keys would not start the car.

All fuses and battery checked out fine. I could crank the engine using a remote starter switch.

It seemed, with these results, that it must be a problem with the PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) not sending the code from my keys to the PCM. Since other systems in my car seems to be working, I temporarily ruled out the PCM. So I decided to go to my local junk yard and purchased an ignition immobilizer, also known as a PATS Transceiver, part #1L2T-15607-AB for $6. I priced them on ebay for about $16 and my local Ford dealership for about $30. This part is located on your ignition key tumbler, it is black and encircles the tumbler, and has one cable attachment.

Disconnect your battery cables before continuing. You can get to it by removing the two clam-shell covers on your steering column, removing 3 small bolts that hold on a wire shroud running along the right bottom of the column, and one bolt that holds on the transceiver. Don't forget to gently disconnect the wire connection first. Slide the transceiver off of the tumbler.

Put new (new used) transceiver and install in reverse order.

BEST PART - this fix DOES NOT require new keys, or reprogramming your old keys, or flashing your PCM!

Re-attach battery cables.

My car started right up!

Hope this helps those of you having a similar issue.
@marfar This is most-welcomed news! In my case, I had installed a rebuilt PCM which came with two keys, programmed to it in advance, so I thought. I neglected the instructed means claiming necessity of programming anyway, after one key started the engine right up. Lo and behold, the 2nd. key exhibited the PATS lockout. I called the supplier of the PCM, who had charged $100 extra for the two "pre-programmed" keys, and got a run-around. Since the PCM did not resolve my issues, I put the original OEM PCM back in, assuming both my original keys had to still work. I started the eng. with one, no problem. But, guess what? The other ORIGINAL key went PATS lockout! So now I STILL have only one working key! ****! imp
 












@TechGuru Thank you for that! I've heard a bit about Forscan, but am not sure my level of old-fashioned understanding can swing working with it. If I bog down, will you mind if I seek your help?
Thanks in advance, even if you say "buzz off"! imp
 






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