NO HEAT. Puzzling and got me Stumped.

[ExplorerSHO]

Ok as of right now I have no heat. Thermostat and housing replaced, heater control valve replaced, Flushed the system 6 months and did a birthing on it 4 times today just incase there was any air in the system. I got the link on how to do it on this same site.

I had the truck running for 2 hours and the temp gauge stayed on the low side of normal.

I pulled over while still running and used a glove to open the radiator cap and there was no pressure and I stick my bare finger into the antifreeze and it was Luke warm. I checked the overflow and its about an inch above the full when cold level.

I ran the EATC test and got no codes and I can hear the mixing door moving during the self test.
After running the test i reset it and tried it again and still no heat.

I do not smell any antifreeze and I'm not leaking any.

PLEASE HELP ME I'M STUCK AND COLD.

1995 ford Explorer Limited 6cl.

 

[corkey]

thermostat backwards ?
maybe it stuck open already ?

i would pull the thermostat and check it again, i get heat in -30 so you should too,,

 

[96eb96]

I would say blend door issue (you could have no codes and hear door movement and still have the issue), but the car being cold after two hours screams thermostat.

Did you use a motorcraft Tstat? Maybe it is stuck open. Being new don't mean its perfect. Also, the single wire temp senders on these trucks (there are two, one for the computer(two wire) and one for the gauge (single wire)) can fail with lower readings, but you confirmed the truck never gets hot.

 

[koda2000]

its gotta be the thermostat. what heat range is it? are you sure it's not installed upside down? it may be defective and stuck in the open possition. it must be the thermostat because the water isn't getting hot. water temp should be around 200 degrees.

 

[drdoom]

Thermostat or water pump failure would be my guess given your description.

 

[koda2000]

if the water pump was bad the engine would be overheating.

 

[budwich]

squeeze the water hose going into the radiator (with the cap on and running for a period... 15-20 min), the hose should be hot (might need gloves) and pressured. If it isn't then you have a problem further "back" ie. at the thermostat. Odds are high that your thermostat is an issue AND worse, it is likely not operating (blocked) resulting in little or no engine block flow ... although your gage appears to not indicate that. That's my guess.

 

[ExplorerSHO]

Ok I drove the car for over an hour and just pulled over while still running both inlet and outlet of the hose from heater core har very hot to touch. But the radiator hose that goes into the thermostat housing is just warm to the touch.
I squeezed the hose and no presure.

 

[corkey]

it is not burped well enough than,, check the rad again,, it will be low now,,

 

[budwich]

thanks for the extra info.... are you now saying that the heater and associated hosings are hot BUT you are not getting any heat still???? IF that is the case, then it is likely you have a blend door issue (probably broken)... lots of posts. BUT it also sounds like you have a general circulation issue also because of the lack of pressure. That could be an air problem, but also maybe a thermostat issue. So I think your "onion" has a couple of "skins"...

PS... I also noticed that you have replaced the heat control valve... is it possible that you hooked it up wrong????

 

[ExplorerSHO]

I installed a new Thermostat and ran car for almost an hour and still no pressure when I opened up the radiator cap. and only luke warm. Just like when I first reported it. Still no heat.

I understand you think it might be the blend door but that wouldn't explain why I have no pressure. When I open the radiator cap and see it is filled to the top I can see the antifreeze constantly flowing so I know the water pump is doing it's job.

When the A/C compressor cycles on/off every 30 seconds or so it drops about 2 inches and then returns to the full level about 5 seconds later when it cycles off.