Not all the explorers have the amps! (and a question)

[Mando]

Just to let you know:

I just replaced my stock head unit (AM/FM, cassette, round volume knob) on my 2 door '92 XL with a High Power Pioneer CD Receiver (45Wx4). Just needed a set of connectors (about $15) to connect it directly to the stock wiring harness. No rewiring to the speakers was needed! The replacement of the head unit is a great improvement over the stock one - I'm using the stock speakers, and they now sound way better! (I will replace the front ones with a new set this weekend). It also surprised me that I didn't need any extra mounting bracket or installation kit - it's an exact fit!

By the way, let me ask you a question: do you know the impedance of the stock speakers? I'm thinking that, if they are 8 or 10 ohms I could connect the new speakers (4 ohms) in the front and the front and rear stocker pair in parallel in the rear, so the head unit see them as a single 4 or 5 ohm speaker. That would make a total of 6 speakers! But I still need to know the impedance of those stockers… Am I wrong or right with this? Could some one tell me?

 

[4x4in]

what made you think it would be harder then i clip to install the head unint? the ford amps are **** to begin with your lucky u dont have one, what year do u have the 92-00, xlt all have 20 watt stock amps, the speakers should work just like you said.

 

[Mando]

'92 XL, not XLT.

Manual tranny, door locks, windows, seats. The only things that are not manual are the hubs and the t-case. I would like to have them manual also.

I was thinking it was to be harder to mount because I have installed 2 stereos before (different vehicles) and they both needed some mounting bracketry.

Have any comment about the stock pair in parallel for the rear?

 

[JTang]

4x4in is right, I believe. All you did was connect the speaker outs of your new head unit to the amplifier inputs; I did the same thing, with no bad consequences so far, though some will argue that it may shorten the amps life. However, your head unit has a lot more power than mine, so it might have a greater chance of affecting the amp. Basically, the speakers are still being powered by the stock amp, then, it's just you have a better signal from your aftermarket head unit.

 

[Mando]

No, JTang, I have no amp at all!
If you take a loot at the Haynes Manual's wiring diagrams, you'll see that they are basically 2 systems, one with amplifiers and another without amplifiers. There's a variation of the one with amplifiers which has a subwoofer and an extra amplifier to drive it, but that's marked as "premium sound" at the diagrams. So I connected my head unit directly to the speakers using the stock wiring, with no need to bypass any amp. I even gave a call to Crutchfield's help line and they swear (based on the description of my truck and my stock head unit) that there's no amp in my stock sound system.

What about the stock pair of speakers in parallel for the rear?

[This message has been edited by Mando (edited 12-09-1999).]

[This message has been edited by Mando (edited 12-10-1999).]

 

[JJ]

Hi.

As far as wiring 2 speakers off each of the rear channels of your head unit: I'm not sure, but I would think that 45W/channel is max output and not RMS, which would mean the 2 speakers in series would only be getting a few watts each. I'd let that stock paper speaker have the cleanest power possible by only wiring one per channel. Plus, where would you mount the second speaker in the rear, or are talking kick panels for the new fronts? Good luck.

Since you seem to have access to crutchfield tech support, they would give the most reliable answer as far as performance.

 

[Mando]

You're right, JJ. Those 45W are maximum, there are only 22W RMS. My idea is to connect them in parallel, not in series, but I'm not sure if that's fine or not. I'm not getting kick panels (cheap guy), so, if it is fine to connect them in parallel I'll need to find a suitable place to mount them or build a little box for them. Would rear side cargo panels make a decent mounting place?
Any way, I need to know about that "parallel connection" before making any plans.
Take care.

Armando

 

[JJ]

Mando,

I wouldn't run speakers in parallel off a head unit. Whatever the impedance of the stock speakers, you wouldn't want to risk overloading your new head unit.

Plus, the sound produced by your stereo is only as good as your weakest component. I would say that 2 great speakers alone is better than 2 great speakers and 2 bad speakers together. Good luck.

 

[JTang]

Mando,

Hmm, that's funny. Oh well. I still believe "premium" sound only refers to the addition of the subwoofer though. I don't know if you have a four door, but I have a 2 door 91, and if I get a flashlight, and peek into where the rear right shoulder belt strap comes out of the plastic molding, I can catch a glimpse of the amp without taking everything off. I think I was also able to see it looking into my rear right speaker hole. Of course if you have the four door, you can't do this. Either way, if this works for you, then all is fine.

About wiring two 4 ohm speakers to a single head unit, I would advise against it, ESPECIALLY if you are going to wire them in parallel. Although the new Pioneer headunits boast the new MOSFET 45 chips for more reliable power, I don't believe the head units were ever intended for that type of load. It would work, the question is for how long. If you really want to put multiple speakers to a single channel, you should try to remain within the 4 ohm load. I know that some manufacturers do make 2 and 8 ohm drivers, and then you would be able to make it work with less worry about abusing the head unit's power. However, I think JJ really has the best advice. 22 watts really isn't a lot of power, and one pair of speakers will easily want all of it. I have a Mazda Navajo, and if I remember, I think the back of the speakers said 6 ohm, can't say for sure though, and they're long gone.

Good luck!

Just a thought, maybe you could look bach at the harness you bought, locate which wire was for the amp remote lead and see if there was a connection for it... ? Although the presence of one wouldn't mean it was used, but maybe.

 

[Maniak]

When I talked to crutchfield they said if I had the knob volume control that I did not have an amp... If I had a toggle volume control I had at least 1 amp and would need the amp bypass.



------------------
Mark
mark@legendz.com
http://mark.legendz.com
Off-Road and Motorcycle Information, Pictures and Movies

 

[Mando]

Hi guys.

I'll mount the new front speakers today (had a busy weekend!) and then I'll check the impedance of the stock speakers. I know the impedance that the head unit sees shall not be less than 4 ohms or I could fry it - any way, thanks for the advice! I'll also remove the rear storage pocket to confirm the absence of any amp (Crutchfield's people told me about that knob volume control thing). I'm thinking I'll keep the stock pair in the rear until I can get new ones.

Hey! I remember my brother has a pair of 6X9 pioneers that I lend him some time ago! (his head unit is a low power one, so he can use the explorer ones just fine). Is it possible to mount them in the rear without enlarging the mounting holes? (my truck is a '92, 2 doors). They are about 30W RMS (80W max), 4 ohms, double cone, so I belive they would be just fine for my application. I know I'll need to drill new holes for the mounting screws, but, is that all? Would they give me better bass than 6x8 ones?

Thank you all Dead Link Removed

Armando

[This message has been edited by Mando (edited 12-13-1999).]

[This message has been edited by Mando (edited 12-13-1999).]

[This message has been edited by Mando (edited 12-13-1999).]

 

[JTang]

Hey Mando!

Unless you've decided just to replace the stock speakers with new ones, you're going to get lots of arguments about the speakers. Basically the bass is determined by the surface area, since more area can push more air, and of course, how much travel the cone will actually push. Then, on another note, other people are going to argue that circular cones will reproduce better sound than eliptical ones. It's basically your choice. Also, make sure that the 6x9s actually will fit in the hole. Someone here a long time ago said they did it as well with 6x9s, but people were skeptical. Also make sure that the original grills will still fit over the new, larger speakers, unless you're going to use the new grills that might come with them.

Good luck!

 

[Mando]

JTang:

I located (at the conector that I bought) which wire was for the amp remote lead and saw if there was a connection for it (in my stock connector) ... and it wasn't. We're now sure there are no amps in my explorer.

I had to remove the head unit to see the color of the wires that go to the speakers - thay are not the same colors of the ones of the new connector. What a pain! I got late and couldn't mount the new speakers because I was missing the right screws - original ones have a large head and the new ones are too long. Let's see if I can finish it today...

P.S. Is there any way to find out which cable is positive and which one is negative at the door speaker connector, other than tracking them all the way from the head unit? If I knew how...

[This message has been edited by Mando (edited 12-14-1999).]

 

[Maniak]

If you know which pair of wires goes to the door you can figure out which whire is positive by leaving the speaker plugged in and then connecting a 1.5 volt (AA) battery to the cable. If the speaker goes out the positive side of the battery is on the positiver terminal of the speaker. If it goes the other way around then the positive side of the battery is connected to the negative side of the speaker. Just make sure you use only a 1.5 Volt battery (AA, C, D only).. if you use a larger voltage battery you may hurt the speaker. Also, you should just tap the wire to the battery, don't connect and leave it there.



------------------
Mark
mark@legendz.com
http://mark.legendz.com
Off-Road and Motorcycle Information, Pictures and Movies

 

[rock883]

Hey guys I just noticed all this, and mando, I have a 91 xl, manual everything just like you, and all I had to do to install the front and rear speakers was to take off the door lock knobs and the window crank, and then i pulled off the door panel and unscrewed the factory speaker, and I bought a wiring harness that plugs into the factory harness and goes directly into the new speakers. It only took me about 5-10 minutes a door.