Oil pooling between heads (and many other issues)

[abuzar1]

My dad just bought this Ford Explorer and he doesn't know much about cars so I'm trying to fix it up for him. There is a lot of oil pooling between the heads. I've attached a picture but it's dark so it's difficult to see. You can see the oil right in the middle under the intake between the heads. Do you guys know of a common point that these leak from to cause this?

Also I had p0172 and p0174 codes. I removed the plugs. Two actually snapped as I pulled on the wires. I replaced them all with autolites and it seems to run better but still rough. The lean codes havent come back but I am now getting P0300 and P0301 and P0302.

The last thing is the rear wheel makes a lot of noise. I've attached a video of it spinning. I thought it was wheel bearings but when I move it by hand it spins freely then there comes a point where it stops. So I thought it might be bad brakes or a warped rotors.

 

[08EddieCA]

Could be oil recirculated through the air snorkel pulled in from the crank case breather tube, connected to the passenger side valve cover. Check the intake manifold gaskets and PCV valve, behind the driver side valve cover. Any EGR codes? My $0.02.

 

[abuzar1]

No EGR codes. I will check. I was thinking of taking off the intake anyway to check.

Could it be bad head gasket? It's not loosing coolant and the oil isnt mixing with coolant. But the leaks looks below valve cover plus the misfiring.

 

[08EddieCA]

I don't think it's the head gaskets. Most likely a vacuum leak causing those codes. Check the vacuum lines that connect to the driver side of the intake manifold in front of the brake boost vacuum line.

 

[abuzar1]

I'll check those also. I did try spraying some throttle cleaner close to the intake to see if any vacuum leaks were present but nothing happened. I did run out quickly so I'll grab another can and try again.

 

[08EddieCA]

You'll need a T30 bit to remove the intake manifold. The rear bolts are a bit challenging to remove but not too difficult.

 

[08EddieCA]

That rear wheel looks jacked up. I don't know enough about axles, bearings, and those components to give you a worthwhile opinion. Something is out of round for sure.

 

[abuzar1]

Yeah I'm mostly concerned with the engine mechanicals. I don't think the wheel will be a huge issue. I'll replace bearings, rotors, and brakes and I think that should do it.

 

[abuzar1]

Hey I haven't tracked down the oil leak yet. I was more worried about it running rough. I've now replaced all spark plug wires and spark plugs with brand new ones. I also swapped in a coil pack from my perfectly good running explorer (same year) with no difference. I haven't been able to find a vacuum leak anywhere. I'm still getting P0300 and P0301. It's really concerning me.

I don't think it's blocked cat because it has a lot of power on acceleration. The SES light flashed at me only at idle and it idles around 800rpm. Once I start driving it the SES flashing goes away after about 15 seconds of being under power.

I'm seriously worried about it being an engine mechanical issue. The problem is I don't have a compression tester around. I won't be able to get to my compression tester for a while otherwise I'd just check and see if it was a burnt out valve on cylinder 1 or something. However bad compression on one cylinder still shouldn't cause a random misfire I think.

Should I just bite the bullet and get a new coil pack? I didn't think it would be needed since I used one from a good working truck.

 

[imp]

@abuzar1 Have you checked in the valley that it IS oil and not coolant? Some coolant on top of the round "freeze-plug" looking thing has the color of oil. Just been there, had that. Failed thermostat housing. imp

 

[360cid]

I am curious as to the leak location as well. Mine is has been doing that recently as well and hoping it's a simple fix. Not really interested in taking the upper manifold off if I don't need too!

 

[abuzar1]

It's definitely oil. I have some exams coming up so I haven't had time to look into it further but I will pretty soon.

 

[boominXplorer]

If someone replaced the timing tensioner and didn't put a new metal washer in it could leak. There is also an oil galley plug on each head that could leak.

 

[SyberTiger]

I don't know a thing about the 4.0L but on the 4.6L it's just about impossible to have oil on top pooling. On the 4.6L it's pretty common over time when an engine has 80K to 150K miles on it for the intake manifold to crack or warp. When this happens coolant can pool around the intake manifold or even seep into the spark plug wells in the heads. The coolant will mix with dirt and give the appearance that it is engine oil. The best way to test if it really is oil or coolant is to take a Q-tip and dip it into the liquid then try to light it on fire with a match. If it burns, it's oil otherwise it's dirty coolant.

Also, if the intake manifold is leaking it can suck additional air into the air/fuel mix causing a lean condition. Sometimes the computer will try to compensate by throwing more fuel to keep the air/fuel mix in balance. This can have the effect of causing your engine RPM to increase when it shouldn't.

 

[BTR75]

My dad just bought this Ford Explorer and he doesn't know much about cars so I'm trying to fix it up for him. There is a lot of oil pooling between the heads. I've attached a picture but it's dark so it's difficult to see. You can see the oil right in the middle under the intake between the heads. Do you guys know of a common point that these leak from to cause this?

Also I had p0172 and p0174 codes. I removed the plugs. Two actually snapped as I pulled on the wires. I replaced them all with autolites and it seems to run better but still rough. The lean codes havent come back but I am now getting P0300 and P0301 and P0302.

The last thing is the rear wheel makes a lot of noise. I've attached a video of it spinning. I thought it was wheel bearings but when I move it by hand it spins freely then there comes a point where it stops. So I thought it might be bad brakes or a warped rotors.
View attachment 151761

I'm having the exact same issue with oil on top of block in-between heads! I can't find we're it's coming from!

 

[SyberTiger]

You'd need to figure out if it's really oil or dirt/coolant mixed together using the method I pointed out above. If it doesn't burn then it's not oil.

 

[Blaze27]

You'd need to figure out if it's really oil or dirt/coolant mixed together using the method I pointed out above. If it doesn't burn then it's not oil.

I can’t say for sure their case but I’m having the same issue and it’s definitely oil.

 

[amj441]

I can’t say for sure their case but I’m having the same issue and it’s definitely oil.

well can confirm with you I just fixed my issue. I had the same problem with my 4.0 sohc. Theres a few places where it can come from. Check you front timing tensioner first. then just behind that should be a t25 plug that screws into the head. make sure that these two things arent leaking first. for the tensioner you may need a new crush washer as for the plug you will have to use a touch of blue lock tight.

Id also check along the valve covers but they typically will leak to the outside.

worst case scenario, you are leaking oil from the head mating surface between the head gasket. If it is bad enough it will leak down and across the driver side exhaust manifold and burn if its the driver side head. or it will pour down the top of the transmission and leak onto the crossover pipe. you will have to pull the head and replace the head gasket if that is the case. and you will need timing tools to verify timing after removing it.

 

[Blaze27]

well can confirm with you I just fixed my issue. I had the same problem with my 4.0 sohc. Theres a few places where it can come from. Check you front timing tensioner first. then just behind that should be a t25 plug that screws into the head. make sure that these two things arent leaking first. for the tensioner you may need a new crush washer as for the plug you will have to use a touch of blue lock tight.

Id also check along the valve covers but they typically will leak to the outside.

worst case scenario, you are leaking oil from the head mating surface between the head gasket. If it is bad enough it will leak down and across the driver side exhaust manifold and burn if its the driver side head. or it will pour down the top of the transmission and leak onto the crossover pipe. you will have to pull the head and replace the head gasket if that is the case. and you will need timing tools to verify timing after removing it.

Thanks for that, I think it’s the latter. I was already doing a head gasket due to bubbles in the coolant. The driver side under the plenum was also a lot cleaner than the passenger side, leading me to believe that it’s running from the driver side.