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Oom12??

JonC

Well-Known Member
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City, State
Derby
Year, Model & Trim Level
'99 UK spec - LPG soon!
Guys,

I've got some work to do on the old girl (and the truck too!) and one thing is ther anti-rattle fix while another is the inlet manifold gaskets.

Am I right in thinking that all the parts for both jobs come in the one kit and if so, where's a good source currently?

Cheers,

Jon
 



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You are correct in that you get the new style front tensioner and a set of upper and lower inlet gaskets, together with an oil flow restrictor and gallery plug in the OOM12 kit. It is also a good idea to replace the rear tensioner, which must be got separately. I'm not sure where to get them now as it has been a while since I did one, however here are the instructions on how to fit it. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=487634&postcount=33
 






http://www.usallparts.com/ I got my 00m12 kit from here about 9 months ago. It cost under $100 US for the kit and postage to Australia. The kit comes with - a new tensioner with washer
- lower intake manifold orings
- lower to upper intake manifold orings
- Oil galley spacer
 






Hi guy i have been reading around got my kit from chris great stuff but i advised to get a copper washer anybody got any ideas where from? or a part number i can order.
Planning on doing it next week.
Ps just got my 2inch spacers fitted needed to do some trimming!! but looks great now will send over some pictures once i work out how to do it. any advice would be helpfull.
cheers
Onetime
 






I got mine form chris, I just fitted what came in the pack, haven't had any problems.
 






Hi guy i have been reading around got my kit from chris great stuff but i advised to get a copper washer anybody got any ideas where from? or a part number i can order.
Planning on doing it next week.
Ps just got my 2inch spacers fitted needed to do some trimming!! but looks great now will send over some pictures once i work out how to do it. any advice would be helpfull.
cheers
Onetime

I took my tensioner down to a local motor factors that has trays of different sealing washers. I ended up with a sump nut washer from a VW beetle IIRC. it wasn't copper but a soft white metal.

As for posting pics;
you need to first host them on a site like photobucket then copy the link.
then you can paste the link using the image button (the landscape picture button on the tool bar of the reply box) and pasting the link

If using photobucket you can copy the img tags also so you can just paste this straight into the post. Simples
 






hi i still have 3 kits for sale.
they will be on ebay from tomorrow .
cheers chris
 






Just installed my kit from chris worked wonders no noise at all now did not use the washer in the kit looked a bit puny so reinstalld the copper one off the old tensioner it was in very good condition. Looked like someone had been there before but it didn't have the plastic oil restrictor done or an updated tensioner. anyway thanks Chris jobsagoodun.
cheers
onetime
 






Question regarding the inlet manifold gaskets.....

I need the oom12 kits to sort the cold idle rattle and air sucking/poor idle.

BUT,

I also need an LPG injector sorted as it's failed and the guy has suggested that he can replace the gaskets whilst having all the pipework off for the LPG job.

SO,

It makes sense to get an oom12 kit and ask him to fit it all whilst doing the LPG work, right?

Now, I'm not sure if he will want to do the extra stuff as well as just the gaskets... and what he's gonna charge, so if I had to get it done separately do you need a new gasket every time you remove the manifolds or can it be reused if it's sound?? I'm thinking - order a gasket and give it to him to fix to sort the LPG issue then get the oom12 kit and sort later.. Is the rest of the work a big issue or is the removal of all the pipework etc actually the hard part to begin with??

Anyone still with me???

Thanks


SK
 






if you have to get the manifold off to do the lpg injector you may aswell do the 00m12 stuff too (2 set of gaskets, the oil restrictor and the updated tensioner) once the manifold is off its easy work about 30mins extra tops on the labour all the work is in the taking the manifold off. It eally easy diy just time consuming. As far as i know the lpg system should cut off all gas when not engaged so removing pipes should cause a leak, you could maybe do this yourself if you follow the 00m12 instructions and get a injector online.
just a thought my old lpg system was single point so i maybe wrong.
if you have to get the garage to do doing the 00m12 stuff should be easy, just give them the instructions from this link http://http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=487634&postcount=33
onetime
 






Question regarding the inlet manifold gaskets.....

I need the oom12 kits to sort the cold idle rattle and air sucking/poor idle.

BUT,

I also need an LPG injector sorted as it's failed and the guy has suggested that he can replace the gaskets whilst having all the pipework off for the LPG job.

SO,

It makes sense to get an oom12 kit and ask him to fit it all whilst doing the LPG work, right?

Now, I'm not sure if he will want to do the extra stuff as well as just the gaskets... and what he's gonna charge, so if I had to get it done separately do you need a new gasket every time you remove the manifolds or can it be reused if it's sound?? I'm thinking - order a gasket and give it to him to fix to sort the LPG issue then get the oom12 kit and sort later.. Is the rest of the work a big issue or is the removal of all the pipework etc actually the hard part to begin with??

Anyone still with me???

Thanks


SK

As onetime says the bulk of the work to fit the kit is removing the manifold.

Just a word of caution for anyone doing the kit, if using a 27mm deep socket to change the tensioner you will have to remove one of the temp senders from the t stat housing. Be very careful doing so as the brass inserts in the plastic casing can free spin if the sensor is corroded in.

Back to your questions simon;
Yes the orings are rubber (well a rubbery type material) and do not need replacing each time the manifold is taken off.
The orings between the lower manifold and the heads are the most likely culprits to be leaking so make sure these are done (supplied in the kit)

If the gas guy does need to take the manifold off to do the injector then he may have to take a while to get it off as first time you have to work out how to get to the tricky bolts on top at the back ( i found a long shaft t30 bit and a uj worked for me)

If you do the kit yourself you will need a 27mm spanner or deep socket (socket better as then you can put a torque wrench on it when doing up).
When fitting the tensioner put a little bit of RTV silicon sealanton the washer to hold it up at the top in the right position. Then put it in by hand and screw it down as far as you can by hand ( You will be able to get it mostly in). The threads for the tensioner are easily crossed if the tensioner is not put in straight and started with a socket or spanner as the PO of my car must have done.

HTH
 






I had Howard help me with mine and to my surprise, fitting of the kit went without a hitch. I'm not sure I'd have had the balls to fit it myself, but Howard made it look easy!

While there you might want to look into replacing the HT leads and spark plugs too while you are there.
 






As onetime says the bulk of the work to fit the kit is removing the manifold.

Just a word of caution for anyone doing the kit, if using a 27mm deep socket to change the tensioner you will have to remove one of the temp senders from the t stat housing. Be very careful doing so as the brass inserts in the plastic casing can free spin if the sensor is corroded in.

Back to your questions simon;
Yes the orings are rubber (well a rubbery type material) and do not need replacing each time the manifold is taken off.
The orings between the lower manifold and the heads are the most likely culprits to be leaking so make sure these are done (supplied in the kit)

If the gas guy does need to take the manifold off to do the injector then he may have to take a while to get it off as first time you have to work out how to get to the tricky bolts on top at the back ( i found a long shaft t30 bit and a uj worked for me)

If you do the kit yourself you will need a 27mm spanner or deep socket (socket better as then you can put a torque wrench on it when doing up).
When fitting the tensioner put a little bit of RTV silicon sealanton the washer to hold it up at the top in the right position. Then put it in by hand and screw it down as far as you can by hand ( You will be able to get it mostly in). The threads for the tensioner are easily crossed if the tensioner is not put in straight and started with a socket or spanner as the PO of my car must have done.

HTH

I agree bolts at back are a problem and take some time with them. I took off both the sensors to get a 27mm socket and long bar of to loosen, no real problems cleaned up the threads and put them back. but it seams is that advice is not too. i only did it because i could not get the wrench in as i did have a small enough one to get the leverage. To be fair most of the bolts in fact all including the tensioner where loosened with a socket and taken off by hand don't know why just seamed that way, so i put them back finger tight and then finished them of with a socket. I my experinec if you can do it that way i would to avoid cross threading.

cheers
Onetime
.
 






While there you might want to look into replacing the HT leads and spark plugs too while you are there.

Yeah, I'd thought about at least doing the plugs whilst he's in there.. I think i'll get the instructions from here to him to look t and see if he's happy to do the extra stuff. As he mentioned the gaskets I'm sure he wants the manifold off so it's a no brainer then....

Cheers, and hopefully a sorted 'splorer soon. Oh hang on, need the handbrake sorting, battery changed and dent pulled... oops

SK
 






Hi guys,
Ok, got a new rattle that sounds like one JonC had a while back...

"Jim, it sounds like light gravel being sloshed around in a steel pan. Happens more under load it seems as no doubt one side of the run is under tension and the other is flapping around in the guides.'

now because I'm already thinking that the Ex runs poorly and rattles on cold startup then it's GOT to be the timing chain on its way out.. Its exactly the same as JonC's... sounds like a nut and bolt rattling around a washing machine.. It ONLY happens when power is applied in gear.. - never in park/neutral.

Someone said about covers/heat shields on the exhaust. Now I'm pretty sure the exhaust is blowing somewhere so not sure about something connected to exhaust issues.

Anyone able to quantify when a timing chain rattles? Is it always when running? only on startup. Only at certain revs?

Sorry to cover old ground but I need to prioritise some expensive work over the next month...

Regards

SK
 






check out this site may help, had another which was better but lost it.

http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=ford_explorer_common_problems_and_solutions

sounds to me you have a death rattle, start with cheapest first unless your loaded and go to south wales and let them replace both tensioners.

if your like me a skint, get a 00m12 kit and install it see if it makes a differnce. If it happens a start up then goes its the oil ristrictor(in the kit), if its at around 2500 revs then its the primary tensioners it is made alot better by installing the newer one in the 00m12 kits. hope this helps, personally i installed a 00M12 kit and its made a load of diiference wish i had done it a year ago.
onetime
 






cheers Onetime,
I'm being over cautious and obviously need to get under the vehicle tomorrow to have a listen, but its hard as it only makes the sound under load...

Oh well, money out the door again soon... Does the trip to Newport sort the problem for good, i.e. £700 for a lifetime fix? And does the 0om12 kit get fitted when both front/back tensioners are replaced?

cheers for the help.
SK
 






The trip to Justin sorts everything, new chains, guides, tensioners, oil, filter, the lot! And obviously, all with the revised parts. Not sure what kind of warranty comes with the job, but never heard of any problems afterwards. Well worth it IMO.
 






Well worth it IMO.

I know, and his ebay £700 offer seems very reasonable for 1.5 days work and all that you've listed...

Perhaps it's bullet-biting time.....

SK
 



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Hi guys,
Ok, rattle is getting louder and very scary.... Thankfully i'll run out of fuel soon and won't be able to drive it as there's no fuel here in North Somerset - because we've all NOT PANIC-ED!!!!

ANYWAY....

Been tying to get hold of Justin at UK Explorer Parts to get the Timing Chain work done. I know he's a bugger to get hold of but I need this sorting ASAP so is there anyone else out there able to do the whole replacement work as opposed to just an 0om12 kit fix? Don't want to go to Ford and give them over £1500...

Any ideas?

Regards

SK
 






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