Power door lock issues. Lock works unlock doesn't

[mizestang]

Guys...scratching my head on this one. Both doors will lock with the switches inside the truck, both unlocks won't. Remote works on lock, unlock won't. Any ideas? Actuators obviously are working.

 

[swshawaii]

Common broken wire near the drivers door hinge. Unlock = Pink/Light Green

Dead Door Lock Switch Resolved | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

 

[mizestang]

Common broken wire near the drivers door hinge. Unlock = Pink/Light Green

Dead Door Lock Switch Resolved | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

Oh, that would be nice. I'll take a look tnight. Thanks for the input!

 

[swshawaii]

Most common location for wire fatigue is near the rubber boot where it flexes. Keep us posted and good luck.

 

[bobflood]

Do yourself a favor and just take the door off if you have to get in the boot - very little room to work, solder wires, etc with the door in place. Disconnect the wire barrel and four bolts for the hinges. You will probably want to have a friend help - the door is heavy!! Good luck.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Those doors are heavy, I scrapped the junk ones off my wreck truck yesterday, front door was 108 pounds without plastic, with window, and rear two both had busted glass and weighed 72 a piece, so be careful.

 

[mizestang]

No luck guys...The rubber enclosure was like it new..wires untouched. I couldn't find anything. Any other things to try?

 

[bobflood]

OK, next place to look is where the lock/unlock wires are routed under the driver side rear door sill. Pull up the kick plate and look for corrosion at wire splices there and curving back under the carpet. Good luck.

 

[mizestang]

Will do. Thanks

 

[Spuddy]

+1 on this. Check and see if the switch in the back near the liftgate will lock the doors - it connects directly to the lock relay without going thru the splice in question. Lock wires are pink with yellow stripe; unlock is pink with light green stripe. There are actually three relays -one unlocks the drivers door only (one push on remote), one unlocks the other doors and liftgate (two pushes on remote), and the third locks all of the doors. Good luck.

Edit: Just reread OP and notice you said that rear switch locks doors - this confirms that your issue is with the splice koda referred to. Pull up the plate/carpet on floor at rear driver's door that covers the wiring bundle; the corrosion will be pretty obvious. Fix the splice and you should be good to go. Good luck.

 

[mizestang]

I actually never tried to unlock at the hatch. I'll try that, then pull up carpet and see what I find. Thanks for the tips.

 

[angstrom08]

I had this issue a few weeks ago, ultimately, it was the relay.

To test for this, I'd open the relay box in the rear, driver's side under the plastic cover over the bottle jack and tire iron. Swap the two larger "mini bosch" relays around. If the doors now unlock and don't lock, then it's the relay. I replaced mine with some Tyco or Panasonic ones from digikey; I can't remember which. But, most any relay will do.

After opening the relay up, the contacts were corroded and pitted, probably from the unsnubbed interrupting current.

 

[mizestang]

There is a relay in the rear? Like hatch area?