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Power Window Went Down...Won't Come Back Up.

CobraGT40

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Joined
November 1, 2009
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Location
Aurora, IL
City, State
Aurora, Illinois
Year, Model & Trim Level
'02 Explorer XLT 4x4
Hey all !
This morning on my way home from work, I stopped by the car wash...I rolled my window down to pay, and the window wouldn't come back up. I can hear the motor working (both up and down)...a few crackling sounds along the way.
I took the door panel off and I cannot tell what the issue is. I don't want to go and take this thing all apart before I know what the hell the issue is.

Has this happened to anyone else ? How can I get the window back to the "up" position ? Since the glass is tinted, I can't see what's going on on the other side.

Thanks !

Scott
 



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I would say, with the door panel off try helping the window roll up. that should help get it up. The regulator (i think its called) has probably wore out.
 






This happened to me once before and it ended up being the actual controller switch in the drivers door.

To get it back up, try a good solid "pound" on the door near the switch and see if the window goes back up. That was my solution until I was able to change out the controller.
 






Thanks guys...
I was able to get the window back "up". I used the switch to get the motor in the "up" position as far as it would go, then manually pulled up ion the window. The motor is working, but something between the regulator and the window is broken/disconnected. The motor will wind all the way to the up position and stop, then all the way to the down position and stop...but the window itself stays stationary. Pulling the window up manually, then using the regulator to lock it in the "up" position should be enough to get me through the holidays. lol
The motor works fine...except for the slight grinding sound here and there going up or down.
Any ideas what the issue is ?

Thanks !

Scott
 






Sounds like the regulator has broken a cable or the cable has come off and wound itself around something maybe. They're pretty easy to replace and cheap to buy. I think the last one I bought through Advance Auto Parts over the net and picked it up at they're closest store. Also available through Rock Auto but (I think) you'll save shipping charges if you pick it up at the Advance retail outlet closest to you. There might also be a coupon available. I think Advance will ship free to your door over a certain amount but it might hit the store quicker at this time of the year.

This is what I bought: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...otor-assembly-dorman--oe-solutions_22146186-p

They're having a 25% off sale plus any purchase of $50 gets you a $25 gift cert. to put toward a future purchase. Free shipping so a little over $60 total to your door. Not bad.

There's some great how-to write ups here on the board. Not hard to do but you do have to drill out one or two rivets and replace with 1/4" bolts when you do this. Good luck and let us know how you come out.
 






Thanks D Hook
I do believe I'm going to take your advice. I've been looking around for the "How To" on replacing the regulator, but can't find one for my '02 Explorer.
Can anyone post a link for a video or instructions with pictures ? I found a video for an '02 explorer, but it's for the passenger rear... I need drivers front.

Thanks !

Scott
 






Umm I don't think anything but 1st Gens have the cables on the regulators. It "sounds" like the motor bushing are shot (a VERY common problem). If the motor is working and making an clicking kind of sound that is usually the problem. Take the motor out and open it up and I'll bet you will find it full of yellow crumbled up plastic pieces. You can get replacement bushing at most parts stores or you can fit nuts in place of the bushing and those will never wear out. I have had 3 different Explorers and all 3 had this problem and have been fixed with the nuts.
 






Take a look at the part I posted above and you can see the cables. The one I bought and replaced had the cables on my 3rd gen 02. I remember that specifically because the cable was broken and had wrapped around something and I spent some time unwrapping the cable to see how it worked. The grinding sound the OP is hearing is the cable getting wrapped around and binding.

The whole assembly comes with a new motor also so you're better off buying the whole assembly for that price. And all four windows are cables. I've replaced both the front and rear regulators on the driver side of my vehicle.
 






Thanks D Hook
I do believe I'm going to take your advice. I've been looking around for the "How To" on replacing the regulator, but can't find one for my '02 Explorer.
Can anyone post a link for a video or instructions with pictures ? I found a video for an '02 explorer, but it's for the passenger rear... I need drivers front.

Thanks !

Scott

driver side is almost the same as passenger.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...82010479.84229.110528882348605&type=3&theater


-----------------------------------------------------------
MY MOUNTY
http://www.facebook.com/diyfordexplorer/photos_albums
 






Sounds like the regulator has broken a cable or the cable has come off and wound itself around something maybe. They're pretty easy to replace and cheap to buy. I think the last one I bought through Advance Auto Parts over the net and picked it up at they're closest store. Also available through Rock Auto but (I think) you'll save shipping charges if you pick it up at the Advance retail outlet closest to you. There might also be a coupon available. I think Advance will ship free to your door over a certain amount but it might hit the store quicker at this time of the year.

This is what I bought: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...otor-assembly-dorman--oe-solutions_22146186-p

They're having a 25% off sale plus any purchase of $50 gets you a $25 gift cert. to put toward a future purchase. Free shipping so a little over $60 total to your door. Not bad.

There's some great how-to write ups here on the board. Not hard to do but you do have to drill out one or two rivets and replace with 1/4" bolts when you do this. Good luck and let us know how you come out.

Thanks for the tips ! I picked up the part from Advanced Auto Supply and I will get to work on it this morning.
Do you know the exact size/length bolts that replace the rivets ? I'm going to swing by the hardware store this morning and then get started.

Thanks ! ! !

Scott
 






I think I used 1/4" x 1". Might be able to do it with 3/4". Maybe buy both sizes just to be sure. Need two bolts, nuts and washers. I ended up using nyloc nuts so I didn't have to worry about them coming loose but lockwashers would be fine, too. Also need good drill bit to drill out the rivets.
 






I think I used 1/4" x 1". Might be able to do it with 3/4". Maybe buy both sizes just to be sure. Need two bolts, nuts and washers. I ended up using nyloc nuts so I didn't have to worry about them coming loose but lockwashers would be fine, too. Also need good drill bit to drill out the rivets.

Thanks again, D Hook ! I'll swing by the hardware store on my way home this morning and pick them up. I'm looking forward to getting this done, it shouldn't be too tough ( I hope! )

I'll post my results...

Thanks again ! ! !

Scott
 






Done and Done !
It was not nearly as big of a pain in the butt as I originally thought...Thanks to all of your help !
The biggest hang ups were getting the new unit inside the door and re-installing the lock push/pull rod.
All in all, it took me about a half hour or so and cost about $65...

My only squawk is that it seems to struggle bringing the window back up. Is this something that'll loosen up over time or possibly an adjustment I need to make ?

Thanks and Thanks again ! ! !

Scott
 






Mine does the same thing. Not sure if it's the track the window rides in or the new(er) mechanism but it's just a tad slower than the original.

I ran my window up and down in the track (before connecting to the mechanism) to be sure it wasn't hanging up anywhere (it wasn't) so I'm guessing the newer unit is the difference. I did mine about a year ago and it hasn't gotten any faster but hasn't made any unusual noises either so I'm accepting this as the new normal.
 






Mine does the same thing. Not sure if it's the track the window rides in or the new(er) mechanism but it's just a tad slower than the original.

I ran my window up and down in the track (before connecting to the mechanism) to be sure it wasn't hanging up anywhere (it wasn't) so I'm guessing the newer unit is the difference. I did mine about a year ago and it hasn't gotten any faster but hasn't made any unusual noises either so I'm accepting this as the new normal.

If your Chinese replacement part also came with a new motor, its probably not as strong as the oem one. Less copper in the winding = cheaper part, but weaker motor.
Maybe you could transfer your old motor to the new regulator?
 






Never thought of that. I think I still have the old one. Might have to give it a try when the weather warms up. Thanks!
 






Hey all !
This morning on my way home from work, I stopped by the car wash...I rolled my window down to pay, and the window wouldn't come back up. I can hear the motor working (both up and down)...a few crackling sounds along the way.
I took the door panel off and I cannot tell what the issue is. I don't want to go and take this thing all apart before I know what the hell the issue is.

Has this happened to anyone else ? How can I get the window back to the "up" position ? Since the glass is tinted, I can't see what's going on on the other side.

Thanks !

Scott
How do I get the window itself up before I drill the window is stuck in the bottom wthe front of the window wont raise up
 






Sounds like the regulator has broken a cable or the cable has come off and wound itself around something maybe. They're pretty easy to replace and cheap to buy. I think the last one I bought through Advance Auto Parts over the net and picked it up at they're closest store. Also available through Rock Auto but (I think) you'll save shipping charges if you pick it up at the Advance retail outlet closest to you. There might also be a coupon available. I think Advance will ship free to your door over a certain amount but it might hit the store quicker at this time of the year.

This is what I bought: Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

They're having a 25% off sale plus any purchase of $50 gets you a $25 gift cert. to put toward a future purchase. Free shipping so a little over $60 total to your door. Not bad.

There's some great how-to write ups here on the board. Not hard to do but you do have to drill out one or two rivets and replace with 1/4" bolts when you do this. Good luck and let us know how you come out.
How do I get the window up to replace it cannot get to it because window is stuck in the cable broke and
 






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