powerdyne help please

[rydinhigh]

Ok it was like 3k rpms at 20 mph..ummm is this thing working then 5500k rpms oh ****...6lbs of boost and 70 mphs. Yes I literally said ooohhhhh shhhhh!!!!!ttttt. I got home and my legs were still shaking.

 

[Nitrous SSC]

Does this help any off the line?

Did you try a nice little powerbrake?

To bad the OEM limiter is gona spoil your fun at 104.

 

[section525]

Videos! Sound clips!

 

[terdrocket]

Sound like he say skeet skeet

 

[rydinhigh]

Nitrous I will try to powerbrake it later and see what happens. I still have to work out this belt problem before I go beating the snot out of it. I have a chip so I don't have to worry about the stock limiter.

Section I will get some video clips just might take me a little.

 

[rocket 5979]

I highly doubt that the charger belt itself is squeaking because it doesnt have much resistance at first. It has to be your front drive accessory serp. belt. I owuld say that you need to loosen the tensioner just enough so that when you beat on it to tension it that it will be able to move but not come back up to its original place. That is what I did. It is the best way to do it. You willl mar the surface of the tensioner a little bit and I dented mine up a bit too. But it was finally tensioned enough where it didnt squeal from there on out. As long as you got that bolt out the way in back of the tensioner then you can tighten it alot more. If you are maxed out with the tensioner where you cannot tension it anymore without hitting the other drive accessory then you will need a .5" shorter belt. I believe I had to take my pulley off fit the belt to it with the tensioner all the way up and then start the bolt in there whie keeping it straight to not cross thread and then ratchet it in and then tension it till it was as tight as I could get it by beating it down. Like I said. It is a PITA to finally realize just how much you need to tension this thing!!! But keep it up and you will be good to go. Oh and by the way it would be advisable to get the chip tuned for the charger now. Full dyno wideband tune would be best. But it is hard to do if you dont have one close. You will see more power and more safety out of it. And you can also mess with your shift points a little more now that you have more power which will let your engine rev higher before the computer recognizes that it has to shift. I would say your next step would be an E cam and 1.5 RR's with new Crane springs of course. Then get the chip tuned for it all to shift at 5600-5700 rpms WOT and you will be good to go. Then you can take more advantage of the high end power of the centrifugal charger and also play it safer with your valvetrain. If your wanting a 12 second explorer that will be a logical step. And then from there it depeds on what other things you want to get there. This should net you mid-high 14's in the 1/4 mile. Up the boost to 9 lbs and you should hit low 14's as long as you drive it right. And then it all depends if you want niro or built shortblock. But I would reccomend a built shortblock as yuor stock internals will not be able to handle the power level your going to hit when trying to make that truck get in the 12's. Go shortblock would be a good bet and then jut up the boost a lttle more.

 

[rydinhigh]

Thanks for the info Rocket, I ended up swaping the the tensioner that came with the kit for one that was a little bigger. I then tensioned that as far as it would go started up the truck and it squeaked for 2 seconds everytime I started it. I then beat down the supercharger tensioner started up the truck and no more squeaking.

 

[rocket 5979]

Glad to hear it. Rock on.