Q: How to you install the front oil seal on the 4.6L V-8?

[SyberTiger]

Specifically, the front oil seal located on the timing chain cover.

Below, I see there's a special tool for installation of the front oil seal. Is there another way to do this, a different tool, or one you can rent at a local auto parts store?

 

[SyberTiger]

Cut a piece of PVC pipe with diameter close to the outside diameter of the seal, then with a large washer and the crank bolt just ease it in?

Other question is why do the instructions above appear to instruct to put motor oil on the front cover and the inner lip of the new seal to be installed....then there's a note to say that the seal needs to be secured within 4 minutes or else you have to start over again and remove the "sealant"...did they mean to say that the cover needs RTV instead of motor oil? What "sealant" are they talking about?

 

[SyberTiger]

It appears that the new seal, manufactured by National, comes with a red sealant already applied. They call it "RediCoat". According to their statement:

"National from Federal-Mogul has been a trusted brand of replacement parts for more than 60 years. Our seals feature our proprietary RediCoat sealant, designed to provide a proper seal in spite of minor bore imperfections."

Base on this it appears I do not need to add any kind of RTV sealant. Further, I would think that if RTV was used then if at future time you needed to remove the front oil seal you'd have one hell of a time getting it out plus you'd have a real difficult time removing the old RTV when you prepare the cover for a new seal.

 

[drdoom]

I believe that I used a piece of schedule 40 and just tapped it in with a small hammer. I did this on the bench with support blocking underneath.

 

[imp]

The lip of the seal, only, should by coated lightly with lubricant, grease preferably, Vaseline is good, carefully to not get any on the seal's outside diameter, as that interferes with the pre-applied "sealant" from achieving a leak-free OD condition. Of coursed, the seal bore in the cover must be free of oil completely and dry. RTV would make little or no difference in getting the seal out someday, as the OD is a press-fit of 0.005-0.010 inches. imp

 

[Number4]

The RTV is for the woodruff key slot, if not applied, oil will leak through it.

 

[SyberTiger]

The RTV is for the woodruff key slot, if not applied, oil will leak through it.

There is no key slot in the oil seal. The oil seal seats beyond the key slot.

 

[Number4]

Right, but the harmonic balance goes through the seal and is held "in place" by that key on the crank. If you don't RTV that key, oil will come out it through the balancer.

 

[SyberTiger]

Right, but the harmonic balance goes through the seal and is held "in place" by that key on the crank. If you don't RTV that key, oil will come out it through the balancer.

Right...on the harmonic balancer...Got it...thanks!

 

[imp]

Right, but the harmonic balance goes through the seal and is held "in place" by that key on the crank. If you don't RTV that key, oil will come out it through the balancer.

@Number4
Maybe and maybe not. Not familiar with the 4.6L, but for many years Ford used a very heavy, flat washer under the big bolt securing the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft. A daub of RTV was often used under that washer, as well as the bolt head, which effectively blocked leakage. imp

 

[Hugh Janus]

Cover in the oven, seal in the freezer. Tap it in.

 

[SyberTiger]

I'll tell ya what...taking out the old seal was pretty challenging...it was in there good. I'm glad I had the timing chain cover off the engine otherwise it really, really would have been a PITA.

 

[imp]

I'll tell ya what...taking out the old seal was pretty challenging...it was in there good. I'm glad I had the timing chain cover off the engine otherwise it really, really would have been a PITA.

@SyberTiger
I have a seal remover which was marketed by Victor Oil Seals many years ago. Has a slide-hammer on a rod, end of rod has a self-tapping screw (replaceable) which you thread into a hole drilled in the seal case, slide hammer yanks seal out of bore. Does not work on weird-shaped seal cases though. Would be easy to make one. Want a pic? imp

 

[SyberTiger]

@SyberTiger
I have a seal remover which was marketed by Victor Oil Seals many years ago. Has a slide-hammer on a rod, end of rod has a self-tapping screw (replaceable) which you thread into a hole drilled in the seal case, slide hammer yanks seal out of bore. Does not work on weird-shaped seal cases though. Would be easy to make one. Want a pic? imp

I've removed the seal already. I was just surprised at how it was pressed in so firmly and the number of whacks I had to give it with my large punch and baby sledge. Lucky I was able to do that since the timing cover is off the engine.

I saw some videos of the slide hammer tools being used to remove the seal and in every case the engine was out of the vehicle. I would assume there would not be much room for a slide hammer if the engine was still in the vehicle.

 

[imp]

I've removed the seal already. I was just surprised at how it was pressed in so firmly and the number of whacks I had to give it with my large punch and baby sledge. Lucky I was able to do that since the timing cover is off the engine.

I saw some videos of the slide hammer tools being used to remove the seal and in every case the engine was out of the vehicle. I would assume there would not be much room for a slide hammer if the engine was still in the vehicle.

@SyberTiger
Mine is about 8 inches long overall, not counting the screw. With radiator out, will work for sure, depending somewhat on the vehicle; with radiator still in place, maybe not. Still, if all that's being done is a leaky seal replace, cover removal to do only the seal is a lot of time and work. Unless of course, the seal installs from the inside, and the cover must be removed! imp

 

[drdoom]

I have used my full size slide hammer with the screw to remove axle seals, it works very well.

 

[imp]

I have used my full size slide hammer with the screw to remove axle seals, it works very well.

@drdoom
I've seen "mechanics" pry axle seals out using the bent end of crowbars, gouge up the housing, then wonder about OD leaks. Course, they didn't know about OD, ID, or in between, it was a "bad seal". One guy who worked for me in the ARCO station I bought into, removed a differential from the Dana Spicer 44 using a similar method. Hell, spreading the case hadn't even entered his abilities yet. That same ******* stole a 1-inch micrometer from my tool chest when he quit, or I fired him, I forget, it's been almost 50 years now. imp

 

[Number4]

The screw method did not work for me to get the seal out. I then bought one of those seal remover's, it's kind of like a hammer but flat. It didn't work either, I did up getting it out I think by mangling it, I don't recall.

Personally I hate driving seals and trying to get them to go in straight, and that's even with the right tools.

 

[SyberTiger]

@SyberTiger
Mine is about 8 inches long overall, not counting the screw. With radiator out, will work for sure, depending somewhat on the vehicle; with radiator still in place, maybe not. Still, if all that's being done is a leaky seal replace, cover removal to do only the seal is a lot of time and work. Unless of course, the seal installs from the inside, and the cover must be removed! imp

The screw method did not work for me to get the seal out. I then bought one of those seal remover's, it's kind of like a hammer but flat. It didn't work either, I did up getting it out I think by mangling it, I don't recall.

Personally I hate driving seals and trying to get them to go in straight, and that's even with the right tools.

I agree 100%. I had a hell of a time trying to get a new seal in. I used a harmonic balancer installation tool, plus a large washer plus a PVC coupler that was near a perfect fit to push the new seal in. Even with everything lined up perfectly with the install tool the fit is sooo tight that the seal did not want to go in straight. I ground down another PCV coupler so that I had a "C" shape up against the seal to push on the side that was sticking out a little bit more. I got the seal in but the couple of places I pushed on with the "C" shape slightly dented the outter seal ring where pressure was applied.. We'll see if it's good to go or if I'm going to have to tear out everything again and try again with a new seal. I get the impression that the seal is supposed to be a "register fit" but IMHO it's more like a press fit which isn't a good idea since the seal is thin metal. It's just really too tight for tolerances with thin metal.

 

[imp]

I agree 100%. I had a hell of a time trying to get a new seal in. I used a harmonic balancer installation tool, plus a large washer plus a PVC coupler that was near a perfect fit to push the new seal in. Even with everything lined up perfectly with the install tool the fit is sooo tight that the seal did not want to go in straight. I ground down another PCV coupler so that I had a "C" shape up against the seal to push on the side that was sticking out a little bit more. I got the seal in but the couple of places I pushed on with the "C" shape slightly dented the outter seal ring where pressure was applied.. We'll see if it's good to go or if I'm going to have to tear out everything again and try again with a new seal. I get the impression that the seal is supposed to be a "register fit" but IMHO it's more like a press fit which isn't a good idea since the seal is thin metal. It's just really too tight for tolerances with thin metal.

@SyberTiger
It is much better to press a seal in, if possible. On smaller covers, a large vise will work, axle press best. Hammering 'em in seems to always "****" the seal. 'Course, with an extension housing under the truck........imp