Refresh My Memory - 2002 Front Swaybar End Links

[HELMUT RONER]

I have finally completed the installation of my rebuilt front lower control arms with new ball joints and polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension. Each side is done approximately a month apart because the receiving cup on the ball joint press split when I started to press in the second one the first day I started the work. The kit was old and worn. I first tackled the passenger side. The end link came out and reinstalled w/o any issues. When I finished the driver's side just a couple of days before posting this the bolt wasn't lining up with the hole of the swaybar. After positioning the sleeve and bushings under the swaybar hole I tried prying them in to no avail. I even used PB Blaster to help me pry them in place, but nope, didn't happen. The truck was in the air on a lift.

So, my questions.

1) The bolts are supposed to go in from the top of the swaybar, right? They had been installed from underneath. I didn't think that was correct. The end links had been replaced before my ownership. I *think* they are the thermoplastic ones (blue bushings and zinc bolt and sleeve).

2) Should the other side end link be left installed loosely to install both sides?

For now, I've left the driver side end link off. I'm going to order new ones. I want to try to get Energy Suspension end links that are also polyurethane, but seems that they aren't available unless you buy the whole swaybar bushing kit.

 

[swshawaii]

Put the tires on and install the end links with the truck on the ground and the suspension loaded.
Sway bar eyelets and the LCA end link holes will never align in the air. DON'T over tighten blue bushings.

Did you see this end link mod? Requires 3/16" bushing nipple reduction but very worthwhile. Ask Chef Duane.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2791778&postcount=10

TWO ES 9.8103 kits needed, eight bushings.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.8103

 

[HELMUT RONER]

Got onto rockauto and ordered the last pack of 4 (9.8103R) they have for now. This will give me a chance to mock it up on the end link hardware I already have off of the truck and trim as you described in that link. Thank you. I'll post my results.

 

[HELMUT RONER]

Energy suspension 9.8103r

Got them from the post office on my way to school.

The link I left off of the driver side. Not original. I believe it to be Moog.

I think whoever installed these must have overtorqued them. They look like more than 18ft. lbs. was applied.

 

[chefduane]

So, my questions.

1) The bolts are supposed to go in from the top of the swaybar, right? They had been installed from underneath. I didn't think that was correct. The end links had been replaced before my ownership. I *think* they are the thermoplastic ones (blue bushings and zinc bolt and sleeve).

2) Should the other side end link be left installed loosely to install both sides?

For now, I've left the driver side end link off. I'm going to order new ones. I want to try to get Energy Suspension end links that are also polyurethane, but seems that they aren't available unless you buy the whole swaybar bushing kit.

First of all, good choice on the Energy Suspension bushings! One of the best handling/suspension mods I have ever done.

Second, you will get differing opinions on this but.. I installed my end links with the bolt dropping in from above with the nut on the bottom, not with the bolt coming up from above and the nut on the top. My reasoning on this is that IF there is a catastrophic failure (unlikely as it may be) of the link bolt and/or nut, or even if the bolt loosens up and falls off, the only thing that will fall out is the nut, bushings and cup washers. If the bolt is installed from below and the nut or bolt fails, the whole assembly will fall out and clang about in your undercarriage possibly causing additional damage. I know that this is unlikely to happen and some insist that the correct way is nut on top, but from a suspension dynamics standpoint it doesn't really matter. My desire was to err on the side of caution in light of any possible failure.

Third.. Yes, be aware of over torqueing the bushings. They do not need to be compressed until they bulge like eyeballs! Just a good snug torque till they start to compress and that's it.

I think you will really notice a difference once you get them in. Less body roll on turns and less plunge on braking. Good Luck and Happy Wrenching!!

 

[swshawaii]

I'm being repetitive, but you are going to love this cheap but amazing mod. Almost a shame you're doing the front end rebuild all at once and won't feel the difference this upgrade alone makes. Using the thick Moog K7275 cupped washers in addition to the taller ES 9.8103 bushings may prove challenging to get the nuts started, but it can be done. I used the eight flat washers from the 9.8105 kit and enlarged the ID to 7/16". If you're concerned about installing the bolt heads up, get two 7/16-14 lock nuts or use blue Loctite on the threads. Don't worry regarding torque, poly is very robust and you will find it very difficult to crush these, unlike the blue Moog marshmallows. Setting torque accurately on all bushings is difficult, just tighten until snug, or enough so you can barely turn the center sleeves by hand. Keep us posted.

 

[HELMUT RONER]

I still had the old control arm I had just replaced days before this sitting in the bed of my truck. I brought it into class during a break and decided to trace the holes for the nipples on the bushings.

I assume ES has their own part number system to know which bushings go into certain kits.

 

[swshawaii]

^ Excellent work! Nice job turning, looks like perfect sizing. Small polyurethane parts are not the easiest to work with.

 

[chefduane]

Good job. I turned mine down with a regular bench grinder. Can't count how many times i lost grip and they sbot off across the garage!!

 

[HELMUT RONER]

Finally got around to installing the end links while I had the Trac on a lift for an oil change. To get both ends on I had to leave the first side loose to get the other side on which let met lift the swaybar up as needed. Once the other side was done I tightened them. Since these bushings are NOT OEM-style replacements I did NOT use the factory 18 foot pounds you'd normally use on end links. Utilizing a method used with hardware in many situations on aircraft was to make sure you have at least 3 to 4 threads showing after the nut. Just after the 4th thread did I start feeling some sharp resistance, but kept in mind these bushings don't need to be squeezed.

The head of the Moog bolt is 5/8 and the nut is 11/16

At the 4th thread the bushing already began to look squeezed. I stopped there.

Another step closer to getting the front realigned. This tire is toast.

 

[HELMUT RONER]

 

[chefduane]

Yep, that looks pretty good! Those Moog (blue) bushings were WAAAYY over torqued. I'm sure everyone would be interested in some feedback after you've driven it a few miles. And yeah, that one tire is definitely toast.

 

[Tony galicia]

Great job,,, my truck dances all over the place. Chanced shocks and still does it but less. By reading your article I believe this is next upgrade. Any other suspension upgrades after the bushings are chanced. My disco truck and my bubble heads kids thank you..