Replace all front suspension or just bad parts?

[ponkotsu]

Got kind of a quandary. I have a Mounty with about 145k miles on it. Front end has a really bad left front hub and left upper control arm. Left hub is definitely already replaced at least once. Right side is tight as a drum even though the parts appear to be original. The left side is bad enough that I think it could be dangerous so it needs to be fixed asap. (About 3/8" in-out movement of the tire. And the ABS sensor is destroyed from the hub runout)

I've heard that both hubs should be replaced at one time because if one goes bad the other usually follows soon. But I've also heard that OEM hubs can often go 200k miles or more.

If money were no object, I'd just replace everything with Moog and Timken, but I have kind of a tight budget now. So I'm thinking about just installing service grade hub and UCA on the left side and worry about rebuilding the front end next year.

 

[koda2000]

i have a similar situation on a 2000 Mounty AWD w/150K. passenger side outer tie-rod end was dangerously sloppy, but the driver's side was fine. the driver's side upper bj has a little play (maybe 1/8") but passenger side is fine and lower bj's are fine. i've already replaced the sway bar end-links (one was broken). other than the outer tie-rod ends, everything looks original OE. i used service grade parts for the repairs.

i helped my daughter buy this truck a few months ago. i've told her what the problems are and told her she should figure on replacing the driver's side UCA soon. if it were my truck, i'd have done both UCA's and both lower bj's, along the the driver's side tire-rod end, with Moog parts and be done w/it.

i guess it just comes down to one critical measurement... the thickness of your wallet.

 

[swshawaii]

And the cost of another wheel alignment when a SINGLE part is changed. Especially a $20 outer tie rod end.

 

[koda2000]

And the cost of another wheel alignment when a SINGLE part is changed. Especially a $20 outer tie rod end.

actually, the tire wear was so off before changing the tie-rod end, it could only be improved by changing it. the steering feel was much improved after replacing it. i rotated the tires back to front and told my daughter to check them everytime she get's fuel. i'm trying to save the cost of the wheel alignment until she get tires (in a few months).

 

[ponkotsu]

And the cost of another wheel alignment when a SINGLE part is changed. Especially a $20 outer tie rod end.

In my case, probably not a problem. My Mounty has some horrid Primewell tires on it. If I don't align after changing the UCA I expect they will wear more quickly, which is actually a positive.

 

[ponkotsu]

And the cost of another wheel alignment when a SINGLE part is changed. Especially a $20 outer tie rod end.

Don't some shops offer lifetime alignment guarantees? If I change out a part or two, what they don't know won't hurt them.

 

[ponkotsu]

i have a similar situation on a 2000 Mounty AWD w/150K. passenger side outer tie-rod end was dangerously sloppy, but the driver's side was fine. the driver's side upper bj has a little play (maybe 1/8") but passenger side is fine and lower bj's are fine. i've already replaced the sway bar end-links (one was broken). other than the outer tie-rod ends, everything looks original OE. i used service grade parts for the repairs.

i helped my daughter buy this truck a few months ago. i've told her what the problems are and told her she should figure on replacing the driver's side UCA soon. if it were my truck, i'd have done both UCA's and both lower bj's, along the the driver's side tire-rod end, with Moog parts and be done w/it.

i guess it just comes down to one critical measurement... the thickness of your wallet.

I think I'll just replace the needed parts. The wife is already p'd about it. I bought this thing as a go to work beater, but it's turned out to be the regular driver. I've got double the miles on it as she does the NEW suv. She just doesn't understand...

 

[koda2000]

You know, i changed both UCA's and lower bj's on my 2001 EB last October (used Moog stuff). i figured I'd need to get an alignment, but so far i see no sign that an alignment is needed. the tires are wearing perfectly (i don't drive the truck that much. I've done maybe 2K since last Oct, plus it's got Michelin LTX's on it and they wear like iron). there was no play in the bj's before i changed them, but the boots were torn and they groaned a little when turning at low speed. if i see any sign of needing an alignment I'll get i done, but so far so good.

I've never heard of anyone offering a life-time guaranty on alignments. if someone does, any idea of who?

 

[ponkotsu]

You know i changed both UCA's and lower bj's on my 2001 EB last October (used Moog stuff). i figured i'd need to get an alignment, but so far i see no sign that an alignment is needed. the tires are wearing perfectly (i don't drive the truck that much. i've done maybe 2K since last Oct, it's got Michelin LTX's on it and they wear like iron). there was no play in the bj's before i changed them, but the boots were torn and they groaned a little when turning at low speed. if i see any sign of needing an alignment i'll get i done, but so far so good.

In theory, replacing those parts should just bring the alignment back into spec. Probably a lot closer than it was before. UCA just affects camber. I can measure that with a carpenter square.

 

[koda2000]

In theory, replacing those parts should just bring the alignment back into spec. Probably a lot closer than it was before. UCA just affects camber. I can measure that with a carpenter square.

yes, that's the conclusion i'm reaching...

 

[delexploder]

When i did my 97 I did new uppers and lowers and tie rod ends all motorcraft and energy suspension sway bar mounts and links it brought it all back so well that the alignment shop didn't touch it .

 

[masospaghetti]

Why not just do the left side with good parts? My original Timken hubs were fine at 200,000 miles (although I replaced them anyway with new Timkens as insurance).

The upper control arm and hub won't require an alignment. If you have to replace a tie rod, I would do the inner and outer on both sides so you only have to do it once. It sucks having to dish out another $80 for an alignment.

Moog parts aren't that expensive from Rockauto. Advance also carries them and you can get 40% off with code TRT41 right now.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Bad hubs, ball joints, and tierods are dangerous accidents waiting to happen. Cheap or not cheap replacement part, it has to be fixed.

We have all debated the whole "buy once, cry once - get good parts" discussion. A search will turn up plenty of material. We will tell you to get the brand name parts, but since money is tight you will end up buying the ebay special or its equivalent white box special at the neighborhood parts store and hope for the best.

So let's be honest.

Here is the rational thinking: If you took the truck in to a non-dealership garage to have it fixed, they would most likely put in a non-premium part, too. Everything fits up nice and drives great when you leave their parking lot. You can do the same thing. I agree!

BUT

The concern is not whether parts fit or the end result is safe. It's how long the repair lasts. Get good quality parts and the repairs should last as long as the originals did for over 100k miles with normal daily driver type use. The low cost cheapies most likely a year or more under the same conditions.

A lot will depend on how much wear you have in other components and if it is installed to spec. With front end components, you can't get away with just fixing the major problems while leaving so-so pieces in place for a very long since everything works together. Replacing all parts that are worn and setting the alignment is key to good service life.

Anything other than grocery getting like larger tires, raising the truck, or heading offroad dramatically increased the stress the parts will have to take. All bets are off on the cheapies. I have seen generic hubs that are still fine after 3 years and 50k miles on stock applications (torqued correctly to 185-ft), but have also seen them crap out in under 4 months just driving pavement with heavy offroad tires so it's best to plan your usage before spending money.

Labor costs will also play an important role here. If you have to pay someone to install the parts, best bet is to put down the extra $. Do it yourself, you will likely have parts warranties so future repairs are your lost free time. You can learn to set the toe alignment yourself and get pretty close with a little practice. If not, definitely look for a lifetime alignment deal.

 

[shadowless127]

I'd personally just do the left side if the right side is tight and the ball joints look good.

Not sure who told you to replace both sides, I replace them as they go. If your budget is tight look into the Pepboys hubs. I have one on my right side and it is tight as a drum after 30K+ miles of hard driving.

 

[koda2000]

romeovilleil - the OP understands the difference between a suspension part that is good and one that is worn. replacing only worn parts with service grade parts and leaving parts that are still serviceable does not equal a dangerous outcome. in our current economy not everyone has the funds on-hand to replace everything with premium grade parts all at once.

 

[shadowless127]

romeovilleil - the OP understands the difference between a suspension part that is good and one that is worn. replacing only worn parts with service grade parts and leaving parts that are still serviceable does not equal a dangerous outcome. in our current economy not everyone has the funds on-hand to replace everything with premium grade parts all at once.

This. I do the best when I can (rotors, brakes) but all my suspension parts that are waiting to go into my X (Hub, Upper control arms, lower ball joints) are Service or OE quality. Going with Timken bearings and moog suspension bits just wasn't in the budget.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

I am certainly not stating the entire front end needs to be replaced, far from it. Just make sure any parts that are broken or have significant wear/play need to be addressed. As stated, there is nothing wrong with putting it back together with service grade parts to make it safe. For driving around town it's a good fix.

If anything it makes a lot of sense to contemplate cost of parts vs value of vehicle. Complete front end kit (ball joints, UCAs, tierods, sway bar links + both hubs) can be found for about $200 all new parts with warranties, or can get Timken and Moog set for $600 with enough shopping around. Shop labor for these is awful and can quickly overcome the value of the truck. Elbow grease on the other hand is mostly free.

Question becomes the comment about rebuilding the front end later: are there other known issues that are "kinda bad" but not yet awful? If yes, should do them as one project if you can swing $ so you don't end up with premature failure.

Before you start get the truck off the ground and give everything a good check. It happens often enough that one part going bad will negatively impact others. If the OP finds only UCA and hub are bad, replacing those two alone is ok -- and there should be no effect on alignment from these parts assuming it tracked straight before they wore out.

 

[ponkotsu]

I am certainly not stating the entire front end needs to be replaced, far from it. Just make sure any parts that are broken or have significant wear/play need to be addressed. As stated, there is nothing wrong with putting it back together with service grade parts to make it safe. For driving around town it's a good fix.

If anything it makes a lot of sense to contemplate cost of parts vs value of vehicle. Complete front end kit (ball joints, UCAs, tierods, sway bar links + both hubs) can be found for about $200 all new parts with warranties, or can get Timken and Moog set for $600 with enough shopping around. Shop labor for these is awful and can quickly overcome the value of the truck. Elbow grease on the other hand is mostly free.

Question becomes the comment about rebuilding the front end later: are there other known issues that are "kinda bad" but not yet awful? If yes, should do them as one project if you can swing $ so you don't end up with premature failure.

Before you start get the truck off the ground and give everything a good check. It happens often enough that one part going bad will negatively impact others. If the OP finds only UCA and hub are bad, replacing those two alone is ok -- and there should be no effect on alignment from these parts assuming it tracked straight before they wore out.

I get what you are saying. And yes, once I take it apart I might find that something is worse than I thought, in which case I will replace it. I won't use eBay grade parts. It will be either top quality or some good service grade like Raybestos.