Replace the evaporator core? Glacier-Shamal?

[Albino 94LTD]

Glacier and Shamaal, have you guys heard of anyone replacing their evaporator core?

I've read about 50 threads on AC problems and haven come across ZERO requiring a new evap core.

I had my system worked on a couple weeks ago and the shop claimed that's where the leak is. They quoted $1200 for repair. (won't hold vacume etc)

I see a little oil residue at the bottom of the blanket surrounding the evap and there may be some on the passenger side floor mat.

I've read the evap box is attached to the fire wall with 3 bolts and there are 11 screws holding the box together. I think I saw 2 bolts and I suppose the third is hiding in a knuckle busting place.

I'm thinking of replacing the parts myself then taking it back to a shop to evacuate and recharge, since I don't want to buy a pump and guage set for a single repair if I don't have to.

My parts list so far;
Oraface tube
Accumulator
PAG-46 oil
NYLOG lube
AC/Fuel line DX tools

and of course the evaporator core, or should I hold off on the evap and replace the 'above' first, then take it to a shop?

Thoughts?

 

[ma96782]

I've done it to my '94 Explorer....and many other A/C parts too.

It started here....
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164634

and ended here...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=190017

Aloha, Mark

PS......here are threads I've kept (about the Evap).....

Ford Evap R/R

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103936

So, I figured I'd post and let everyone know how it went. It's been almost a month now and my AC still works perfectly. Flushing ended up being fairly easy. Flushing/evacuating/refilling took about two hours. The hard part was installing the new evaporator. That took 6 hours plus. If anyone else has the misfortune of having to replace the evap core I can offer the following advice:

#1 Get a Haynes book. It's directions are mostly correct.

#2 When the book says to remove four bolts holding the assembly to the firewall, it actually means the nuts attached to the 1.5 inch posts coming out of the firewall. You will need long sockets to get them out. One is inside the car. You just have to remove the carpeted piece that covers the heater core. Two are right on top in the engine compartment. One of those is between the blower motor and the evap box, the other is next to the distributer. The last nut is WAY on the bottom at what looks to be an impossible location. Relax, if you go under the car and reach around the radius arm and frame rail you can easily get to it.

#3 Remove everything in the vicinity of the evap box. Haynes doesn't mention this, but it's nearly impossible to get the evaporator out if you don't remove the two heater hoses. It also makes things a lot easier if you use duct tape (or something less ghetto) to hold back the vacuum lines, wiring harnesses and various hoses. I have a KKM intake so I didn't have to worry about air box, but I can imagine it would have to go too.

#4 Once you get the darn thing out, replacing the evaporator is simple. Something like 18 bolts hold the halves together. The new one just drops in.

#5 Install the orifice while the evaporator is out of the car. When you install it, lube it up with some AC Ester oil. It will slide in more easily. Don't let the oil touch your skin. It itches like a son of a !!!!!

#6 When you received the new evaporator, It should have come with some nifty little disposable plastic pipe caps. After you install the orifice put them back on. You really don't want to accidentally get engine gunk inside when you reinstall.

#7 I found that the easiest way to install the evap box is to slide it in as close to the distributer as you can at a 45 degree angle. You can then move it left while at the same time tilting it upward. The post that goes into the cabin should just drop into place.

#7 Putting the evap box back in is a pain no matter how you go about it. Don't get frustrated and force it in. The little pipes running out are fragile and break off easily. I accidentally bent one.

#8 Now you flush, evacuate, and fill according to Glacier991's directions. While you have the hoses apart its a good idea to replace all of the O rings.



I was lucky because when we flushed my compressor it came clean after 1 or 2 blasts. If you have metal fragments in the orifice you are toast no matter what. According to what I've heard, A small amount of black gunk is normal. In my case the screen on the orifice was about 90% clean. If I'd had the money I would have replaced the compressor too. The jury is still out on whether my fix will stand the test of time.
__________________

**I didn't write the quote in blue.....IMHO....don't flush a compressor**

 

[shamaal]

It's rare on Explorers, but yes the evaporator can go bad.

It is held on with three studs, the third one is underneath and can be accessed from under the vehicle and looking uo. OR the other side of the stud can be undone from inside the car in the passenger compartment by pulling the carpet back and undoing the nut. I've got some pictures somewhere for a replacement thread, I'll post tonight if I have time.

 

[Glacier991]

The nice thing about a failed evap is that a sniffer in the vent will go nuts. Pretty easy to diagnose.

 

[lifeguard379]

sweet i need to do this as well. but my manual just sead to take it to a mechanic lol.