Replacing Brakes Shoes/Pads

[David S.]

Over the upcoming holiday, I plan on replacing my shoes and pads. My Explorer is stock. What pads/shoes do you reccommend? I have checked with some online stores and local retailers and they are selling Wagner/Bendix/Raybestos/Motorcraft/Beck Arnley. Any good or bad experiences with these brands? I will have to check my rotors and drums as well. And as long as I am taking these apart, anything else I should replace while I am there? 91,000 miles and I have not replaced anything since I bought it at 49,000 miles 3 years ago.

 

[Maniak]

Since your going to be in there anyway.. I would Repack/Replace the front bearings.. Also.. you should clean your Auto hubs (if you still have auto hubs).. Use something like ATF to lube them (don't make them swim).

One overlooked part is the caliper slide pins.. If you have never replaced them, now is a good time to do them.. I normally replace them every 2 pad changes, earlier if they got soaked in Power steering fluid etc)..

When you reinstall the caliper slide pins use Caliper Brake greese. I've tried other types including bearing, and lithium and they don't near as well as the caliper grease does..

As for what rotors/pads to use.. We now use Rotors from ART (cryo treated/slotted Rotors) http://www.appliedrotortechnology.com . We love them and they cost close to $300 for 2 rotors with pads.

 

[Goober]

Although I'd like to be able to get slotted, I stick with the auto store brands. I have used Raybestos and Bendix. The semi-mettalic Bendix seem to work better to me. One more note added to Maniak's, you might want to get the rear drum brake kit, since you haven't changed anything and you have close to 100K. I'm changing mine tonight.

 

[Scott B.]

I've been really happy with Bendix pads and shoes. It's what Ford uses, too. Their titanium-metalic pads don't wear out the rotor as fast as other, cheaper semi-metalic brands do.

Repack your front wheel bearings, replace the wheel seals.
Pull the spindles off, clean and grease the spindle axle bearing, replace the seals.
Replace the caliper slide pins.
Clean the ABS sensor.

In the rear, if you have drums,
Clean all the dirt and grime out of there.
Make sure there are no broken springs.
Clean and lube the shoe adjuster (at the bottom of the shoes)

 

[01EB5.0]

I would go with Bendix..thats all we have used opn our ford vehicles and they wear great!

 

[FC2ED]

Something my father taught me years ago is to lightly grease the contact points where the shoe rides on the back plate with a little white lithium grease.
I also agree with Goober that you should replace the brake kit. I usually replace my springs about every other shoe change. You also want to try and keep the shoes clean, if they get dirty take some brake cleaner to the shoes and rough them up abit with sand paper.

 

[kilroy]

MOST important of all, REPLACE your brake fluid!!! 91K on the original fluid, that stuff must be nearly black by now. You might also want to consider rebuilding the calipers, 91 K on them with all the heat they generate, those dust boots could be a little weak, also check your brake hoses for cracks and replace them if they are. I had one go on me, and it was a bit hairy trying to stop on the rear drums alone.

 

[David S.]

Just to clarify, the fluid is not the orginal. I just have not done any work in the last three years. My dad had complete break work done just before I bought the car in May 1997. Now is the time for pad/shoe replacement. I don't know what kind of pads he used but they have worn very well in the last 40,000 miles.


[Edited by David S. on 06-23-2000 at 01:47 PM]

 

[Triton46]

Can you drain the brake fluid from the rear? I drained/refilled the front calipers when I redid the front a year ago, but am wondering about the fluid in the lines and in the back of the vehicle.

Also, do I need new springs when I change the rear shoes?