Replacing clutch in 95 4x4 v6 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Replacing clutch in 95 4x4 v6

Cstoliker

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Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Explorer XLT
When I bought my 95x the previous owner told me the clutch was recently replaced. I guess not because now it is starting to slip in the higher gears. 4th and 5th if at 3/4 to full throttle. My driving has not been that bad to kill a clutch in a year!
Guess I gotta replace it. I have never actually had need to replace a clutch before. Does the transmission have to be completely removed or can it be done buy just separating the engin/tranny at the bell housing and prying them apart a bit?
 



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I hesitate to comment here because it's obvious you are treading in very unfamiliar territory for you. Yes...the trans...and everything else from the back of the block to the rear differential must come out.

I would highly recommend you get a good shop manual for your application. It will be invaluable. Many people think a clutch job is simple nut and bolt work. IT IS NOT!!! A good clutch job is very expensive and takes experience and a trained eye to see what is going on and what needs to be repaired/replaced. You may end up having to replace a rear main seal, a front trans seal, etc. The clutch actuating system...whether it be hydraulic or mechanical must be inspected and replaced as necessary. The bearing retainer almost always should be replaced as the throw out bearing must move smoothly on this surface...and it is a wear surface. The flywheel MUST be surfaced or replaced. It must be measured after surfacing to see how much material has been removed and a shim used if necessary to bring the clutch surface back out to the proper distance. See Pioneer for flywheel shims. But if I do a clutch job I don't know the history of the vehicle, I replace the flywheel. And if I do know the history, anything more than a light surfacing dictates a new flywheel. You must replace the pilot bearing/bushing. Inspect the trans input shaft and look for damage. Inspect all bolts and guide pins for damage. You will need an alignment tool...usually comes with a new clutch assy. And you don't want to be doing this again for a long time...so buy QUALITY parts. Spend the money right the first time.

I say all this because you need to keep in mind that a clutch and flywheel assy are not light components. They have some mass to them. I don't know what your engine revs to, but think about something breaking or coming loose at that rpm. It can literally come right through the cab of the truck. I personally saw a flywheel assy on a race car go right throught the windshield. This was after it went through the bellhousing, floorboard, took off part of his shoe and two toes, the dash board, and out the window. That is why scattershields are required in all stick shift race cars. So it can be a big safety item...so you want to do it right.

I wouldn't be afraid to tackle this if I were you if you have a good factory shop manual and/or some good experienced help. You should learn a lot and benefit from it. Otherwise, you would probably be money ahead to have a good shop do it for you. Good luck!!
 






Well, it's going to cost me $740.00 to get it done. Now it's a question of if it's worth putting the money in to a 13 year old truck with 187,000 miles.
 






Get the repair manual as Cobraguy suggested and I'm sure you can do it for hundreds under that $740 (replace everything: pressure plate, disc, flywheel, slave w/ new bearing) . Since you have the manual transmission, then really the only other big things you need to worry about are the engine and rear axle - everything else is just normal replacement parts (ball joints, etc...). So I'd replace the clutch and keep it going for another 100k or so.

EDIT -- and try to get close to the proper RPM on shifts, not 3/4 full thorttle :)
 






LOL yes I know how to drive stick. I think you missunserstood. When in 4th or 5th gear, and the throtle is opened more then about 3/4 the engine revs and the clutch slips. I am not reving the engine and then duping the clutch during a shift, or waiting till 4000RPMs before up shifting. This will happen when the vehicle is already in gear and at speed.
 






Ah okay -- yeah definitely sounds like you need to pull the transmission back and check out whats going on.
 






I got the truck back today. It turned into a big expense. They replaced the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, TO bearing, rear main seal, both output seals on T-case and had to drill and tap for a busted bolt on the exhaust manifold. $1,100.00

New clutch is real touchy I stalled it a few times on the way home. It engages when the pedal is about 1/2" off the floor almost immediately as you let off the pedal.

Having a problem with the truck shuddering when the steering wheel is turned at idle.It did not do it before. Would they have needed to remove any steering components during the clutch install? The garage is not open till Monday so if the steering problem is not something simple like low fluid I'll have to bring it back.
 






I just replaced my automatic transmission in my 95 Ford explorer with a manual transmission from a 93 Ford ranger..( not recommended...) I did get a new slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder however, I am attempting to use the clutch pedal from the previously mentioned Ford ranger.. had to make a few adjustments but all in all it is in. But I need to know if anyone knows exactly how much room should be in between the pedal and the firewall while resting? It seems to me that at resting point the clutch should be a little higher than it is. Is there anyway to know if my pedal gives enough room to do perform like it should?
 






I just replaced my automatic transmission in my 95 Ford explorer with a manual transmission from a 93 Ford ranger..( not recommended...) I did get a new slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder however, I am attempting to use the clutch pedal from the previously mentioned Ford ranger.. had to make a few adjustments but all in all it is in. But I need to know if anyone knows exactly how much room should be in between the pedal and the firewall while resting? It seems to me that at resting point the clutch should be a little higher than it is. Is there anyway to know if my pedal gives enough room to do perform like it should?
@Jonjust2bolts

First, there may be physical differences between the Ranger floorboard, and underdash structure, which are not allowing adequate master cylinder piston travel. I would try lengthening the link between the pedal arm and the master a bit, after of course, determining there is no air in the system. You should feel "pedal" pretty much as soon as it starts to move.
 






I would say that what is more important than how far of the floor the pedal is, is whether or not the pedal has enough travel to fully disengage the clutch...does it?
 






I would say that what is more important than how far of the floor the pedal is, is whether or not the pedal has enough travel to fully disengage the clutch...does it?
RangerX

you answer your question yourself. If the pedal is not suspended FAR ENOUGH off the floor, it's travel when DOWN ON THE FLOOR, will be not be sufficient o properly disengage the clutch, right?
 






Yes, right, imp, but we don't know if the clutch is operating correctly, Jonjust2bolts gives no indication of that. Waiting to hear from him...
 






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