[SOLVED] 96 Explorer 8.8 Parking Brake Won't Engage | Ford Explorer Forums

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[SOLVED] 96 Explorer 8.8 Parking Brake Won't Engage

97RangerXLT

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Joined
October 20, 2015
Messages
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City, State
NOVA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Ford Ranger
EDIT: Problem was solved by reinforcing the backing plate and then adjusting the brakes with everything assembled. See pictures here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JoB9P2vztk2yrg2JA
END EDIT

I just installed the axle from a 96 Explorer into my 97 Ranger. During the process, I replaced just about every part attached to the axle. Everything went pretty well except now the parking brake doesn't engage. I modified the bracket, so both cables will pull all the way tight, but it appears that there just isn't enough travel in the replacement arms to actually engage the shoes. The adjusters are set so that the rotor barely fits over them, so I know that isn't the issue. My thought is that if I just weld some extra material on the ends of the arms, it should take up the extra space and allow the cable to start engaging towards the beginning of it's travel instead of all the way at the end. Am I missing something, or do brand new parts need to be modified in order for a stock Explorer parking brake to work???
 



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Did you adjust the parking brake shoes out until they lockup on the rotor and then back them off until they drag just a bit?

Does a '97 Ranger have disk brakes in the rear or drums? Regardless, brake shoe adjustment procedure is the same.
 






Yes, I adjusted them to the point where they wouldn't fit and then backed it off a bit. Looking at the assembly, it appears that the arms don't even start to contact the shoes until the cable is pulled pretty tight.

The 97 Ranger has drums, one of the main reasons I went with the Explorer axle!

Did you adjust the parking brake shoes out until they lockup on the rotor and then back them off until they drag just a bit?

Does a '97 Ranger have disk brakes in the rear or drums? Regardless, brake shoe adjustment procedure is the same.
 






The parking brake can be tricky even on a stock explorer. If anything is a bit off, you are going to have issues. Either weld or shorten the cables I guess. Maybe a turnbuckle.

Also, some aftermarket cables are junk. Rockauto just refunded me, they said, sorry we know. They said some users modify them.
 






Thanks! I ended up welding some extra material onto the arms, since I didn't want to have to modify future cables. It seems to work okay now, but it's not holding very well on hills and requires more pressure on the pedal than it should. I'm thinking it may wear in / self adjust so it engages better.

The parking brake can be tricky even on a stock explorer. If anything is a bit off, you are going to have issues. Either weld or shorten the cables I guess. Maybe a turnbuckle.

Also, some aftermarket cables are junk. Rockauto just refunded me, they said, sorry we know. They said some users modify them.
 






You need to install the rotors THEN turn the star wheels through the access holes. Make them so they almost drag and you’ll probably be good.
 






You can also try and reverse while applying the parking brake, I’ve geard that they are and aren’t self adjusting. I manually did them, but currently have no parking brake hardware.
 






You need to install the rotors THEN turn the star wheels through the access holes. Make them so they almost drag and you’ll probably be good.

Sounds good! I'll have it up on the lift tonight (modifying the bracket for the rear brake lines, which is currently too high on the Ranger). I'll try and tighten them up a bit more.

You can also try and reverse while applying the parking brake, I’ve geard that they are and aren’t self adjusting. I manually did them, but currently have no parking brake hardware.

Yeah, I don't really see how they're supposed to adjust by themselves. The spring kindof holds the adjuster in place, and I don't see anything that would put a tightening force on it.
 






They are not self adjusting.
You can break them in a bit by some stops from 30Mph, let them cool down, but don't expect miracles.

Also, they don't really work that well. I did everything to mine and sometimes it works and sometimes it don't (goes down lower and holds poorly). Maybe if everything could be replaced with OEM ford parts. They were rusted to crap when I got the truck and I have a feeling something is bent or not right on the passenger backing plate. The cable was rusted solid before I changed it.
They do sell backing plates and hardware (there is a cottage industry for Jeep guys) but it isn't worth it for my truck.
 






Yeah, that's a problem... mine's a manual transmission and gets parked on a hill. I'll eventually get mine working correctly and if I remember to take pictures I'll post them so you guys can see what I did.



They are not self adjusting.
You can break them in a bit by some stops from 30Mph, let them cool down, but don't expect miracles.

Also, they don't really work that well. I did everything to mine and sometimes it works and sometimes it don't (goes down lower and holds poorly). Maybe if everything could be replaced with OEM ford parts. They were rusted to crap when I got the truck and I have a feeling something is bent or not right on the passenger backing plate. The cable was rusted solid before I changed it.
They do sell backing plates and hardware (there is a cottage industry for Jeep guys) but it isn't worth it for my truck.
 






Yeah, that's a problem... mine's a manual transmission and gets parked on a hill. I'll eventually get mine working correctly and if I remember to take pictures I'll post them so you guys can see what I did.
Thanks!
When I worked on mine the lever mechanism needed a torch to separate, red hot, was that bad. I have ceramic brake grease on it now. Lube isn't a bad idea if you depend on it.With a stick shift it probably won't get to that point because people use it and that breaks the rust.
 






You're welcome! I just bought new ones, since one side had been gutted and I didn't want to bother with breaking it free. Then my dad wanted to use the old parts for welding on, so we knocked it apart with a hammer and punch with one side in the vise. I did grease them up really well though!

Thanks!
When I worked on mine the lever mechanism needed a torch to separate, red hot, was that bad. I have ceramic brake grease on it now. Lube isn't a bad idea if you depend on it.With a stick shift it probably won't get to that point because people use it and that breaks the rust.
 






I did some more work on it yesterday evening, and it works better now. It's still not right, but I have a new theory as to why. The channel that the arm sits in may need to be bent such that it's tighter. I'm thinking the arm is twisting as it expands, reducing the pressure it exerts on the shoes. In about 400 miles I'll be replacing the axle fluid, so I'm going to pull the axles and try modifying the backing plates to hold the arms tighter.
 






Turns out I was correct! The backing plates were weak, which allowed too much up and down movement from the spreader plates. My brother and I fabricated a repair plate out of a piece of angle iron and I welded it in place. I'd injured my dominant hand recently, so I think the welds turned out decently for a HF wire welder and using my non-dominant hand. Pictures in the album below!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JoB9P2vztk2yrg2JA
 






Turns out I was correct! The backing plates were weak, which allowed too much up and down movement from the spreader plates. My brother and I fabricated a repair plate out of a piece of angle iron and I welded it in place. I'd injured my dominant hand recently, so I think the welds turned out decently for a HF wire welder and using my non-dominant hand. Pictures in the album below!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JoB9P2vztk2yrg2JA
Thank you sir! I have the same issue on mine!
 






Thank you sir! I have the same issue on mine!

You're welcome! I just got my project finished, and it held okay on our steep hill. Brakes smelled a bit hot when I got to work this morning, so hopefully nothing got damaged and it's just adjusted as tight as possible. Will update if there's anything new / relevant, but otherwise assume my problem was solved by reinforcing the backing plate and then adjusting the brakes with everything assembled.
 






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