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steering noise

murphy1600

Member
Joined
October 4, 2006
Messages
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City, State
Modesto, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 Sport
I have a 1998 Explorer sport that is making a grinding type sound when the wheel is turned to its maximum point but stops after slightly straightening it back. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Dave
 



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I would check halfshafts (outer CV joints). Did your vehicle used to drive off road a lot ? another thing could be bearing/hub assembly but probably you would hear it driving straight either. Does the grinding sound appears on both turns ? Does it happen also at the beggining of the trip or after the car warms up? what about 4x4 engagement Are you sure the 4x4 is disengaged?

regards

Archie
 






I have a 1998 Explorer sport that is making a grinding type sound when the wheel is turned to its maximum point but stops after slightly straightening it back. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Dave

Check your power steering fluid level also. If it's low, it can make a grinding sound at extreme turning.

-Tim
 






half shafts, power steering pump, also check hub b earing assemble
 






Thanks everyone! but my truck is 2 wheel drive, so I really haven't taken it off road just a few hills going fishing
 






I just started getting something similar. A few days ago, the steering developed "notches" on either side of center and I began to suspect the pump/rack/whatever. However, today I was parking at the mall and got a big grinding sound while moving with the wheel cut. No noise when going straight. 4WD not engaged. Does that sound like a CV joint? How do I check, besides looking to see if the boot is torn? Lower ball-joint on the same side was replaced 2yrs ago when it failed.

98 XLT 4WD - 60K Miles - No off-road
 






Check wheel bearings then.
 






when my truck was in prime condition, it made that noise. i found out alot of other people's trucks made that noise too. its just a brief "groan" right?
 






Mine likes to "moan" while I'm turning into parking spaces or making slow turns in a parking lot. It's always done it. To me it sounds like the power steering pump. Fluid levels are fine, and I don't have any issues with the steering...
 






























OUCH.. those things are expensive.

Looks like $160 at Autozone, and not that bad to put in. I'll find out...

What worries me is the rack. I still have some slight notches while turning, even with the wheels off the ground. I'm going to flush it out and try some steering fix stuff. Pump seems to be fine, no noise or squealing, and just a buzz at full lock.
 






replacing isnt bad. make sure you have a 32mm socket and a torque wrench that goes to 175 ft lb. for the big hub bolt.
 






FYI: You should never hold your steering wheel all the way locked to one side. When your steering wheel is at a max it continuously runs the power steering pump. By backing off just an inch your pump will turn off and probably last 10 times as long.

the ps pump is always running when the engine is running it only "turns off" when you turn the truck off, what your doing when the steering wheel is turned all the way one direction is your Spiking the PS line pressure and if you have rusty old lines then your right on your way to blowing one of them, you got it right by saying the back off an inch part and the pump will last longer
 






What worries me is the rack. I still have some slight notches while turning, even with the wheels off the ground. I'm going to flush it out and try some steering fix stuff. Pump seems to be fine, no noise or squealing, and just a buzz at full lock.[/QUOTE]

I am having my rack replaced in two days. Cost;$475.00 parts & labor.
A remanufactered is only $112.00 @ O'reilly Auto Parts, but I bought a new one for $250.00. When mine went, it sounded like the front tires were coming off and rubbing hard in the wells. Only on a turn though, going straight it was fine.
It shuddered real hard, shook the steering wheel and my idle dropped and stalled the engine.
 






What worries me is the rack. I still have some slight notches while turning, even with the wheels off the ground. I'm going to flush it out and try some steering fix stuff. Pump seems to be fine, no noise or squealing, and just a buzz at full lock.

I am having my rack replaced in two days. Cost;$475.00 parts & labor.
A remanufactered is only $112.00 @ O'reilly Auto Parts, but I bought a new one for $250.00. When mine went, it sounded like the front tires were coming off and rubbing hard in the wells. Only on a turn though, going straight it was fine.
It shuddered real hard, shook the steering wheel and my idle dropped and stalled the engine.[/QUOTE]

Have you checked the ball joints?? i saw something similar on a jeep tho steering felt like it had notches in it, (stiff to turn) turned out that it was the ball joints had some rough spots (starting to seize up) i would check that before dropin in the new rack disconnect both outer tie rods and move the wheels by hand while the truck is off the ground and see how it feels if it turn nice and easy then its probubly in the rack or the steering shaft (they have a u-joint if im correct as most shafts do) that could be seizing up too to check that dissconnect the steering shaft but be carefull not to move the steering wheel (could break the clock spring then u got no airbag or horn) and if thats fine then its in the rack, seems like alot but this is just what i would check first before dumping $400+ in parts and labour
 






rob 186,
It is definitely the rack. It exploded fluid all over the engine compartment. Fluid came out both sides of the rack. I knew it was bad, I just thought I had more time to get it fixed b/4 she blew.
 



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well at least you found out for sure what it was lol
 






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