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Stripped #2 Spark Plug thread. Suggestions?

renaldoaoa

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November 11, 2013
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Year, Model & Trim Level
01 Sport Trac
01 ST

So, everything was going smoothly changing my plugs/wires/coil UNTIL I took out the #2 plug. I noticed the first few threads looked metallic/grey when I pulled it out. My first thought was prolly some anti siege gel, but I knew better when the plug wouldn't go in. It didn't grab anything. Yup, first few threads are screwed. The rest further down are fine though. Now I gotta figure out the next step.

My first thought was call around and find someone to have it re-threaded, but I've been looking at some of these tapping methods. It's only the first 2 or 3 threads. I am guessing it was never completely in there to begin with. Not the best area to do that in, not to mention the worry about shavings. I've spent an hour or so reading everything I could find on the net, but I didn't really see anything here on the subject.

I have a mechanic friend coming over sometime this weekend to take a look. He works at a Honda dealership, but I don't believe he is going to do anything with it. I am going to just get his opinion. I think he's going to ask around his shop if someone he knows would be willing to do it, but for now his only suggestion is to hit the Ford dealership. I wouldn't necessarily have a problem with that. I would pay more, but I would have a better chance of having it done the right way, but from what I've read Ford's default reaction would be to pull the head.

Everything is up in the air, but I would welcome any feedback on this subject. Ideas, thoughts, past experiences, etc..

Hopefully something that will talk me and my .306 rifle outta this clock tower!
 



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All my buddy's and I use what's called a helix coil, this will allow you to use the same size spark plug and seal properly as well. You can get the at most parts stores and or hardware stores. Best of luck man, just remember to step away from the truck and calm down if needed.
 






Thanks for the info!

I've been doing a great deal of reading on the helixcoil and the Time-Sert. I plan on going with one of these depending on what info I can get from a dealership. I have read that some dealerships will fix using one of these products, others wont do anything but change the head.

The only reason that I am considering having a dealership do this is because of the tight area around #2 . I would need to use a socket set with my extensions/swivel just to turn everything. I guess my main concern is having the proper angle while tapping and turning. It doesn't look hard to do, but everything is easier when you have better access to it. I am learning the ST doesn't understand that concept.

I would feel MUCH better if I had a video, or some pictures of someone doing this on a ST. Sadly, after 3 1/2 hrs of searching, I have yet uncovered ANY info like that regarding ST's.
 












Have you tried running a tap in the hole? You can buy a spark plug tap/thread chaser for around $10. It has the smaller sized spark plugs on one end and the bigger on the other. It also works on o2 sensor threads so it's a reasonable tool to have. Obviously the big part of this would be to keep the tool straight so you can keep the remaining threads in good shape.

If the threads are too far gone, as others have mentioned,timeserts work well. These are commonly used in the 2 valve triton 4.6/5.4 motors once a plug blows out.

In either case you can pack the tools full of bearing grease to catch any shavings from getting into the cylinder.

Good luck!

Benjam :D
 






In either case you can pack the tools full of bearing grease to catch any shavings from getting into the cylinder.

Benjam :D

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I always wondered how to prevent shavings from getting into the cylinder. Now I know. Thank you sir! :salute:
 






I had my ST towed to my local dealership. I spoke with them before hand and I was told it would cost a couple 100 bucks to have it tapped with the helixcoil.
My research has shown that the Time-Sert is a better product than the helixcoil, but I figured I would let them check everything out before asking if they could do the Time-Sert.

They called me today and said that they needed to move the air conditioner/blower assembly to get at the #2 plug. I can agree with them that it would be better to come from above to ensure that its put in at the right angle. The only problem with this is they want to change me $1300.00 total for everything. That is removing and reinstalling the ac/blower, plus doing the tap. That's pretty pricey if ya ask me.


I am going to look into that thread chaser, and also the possibility of changing the head, or pulling the ac/blower myself and installing the Time-Sert. My friend suggested just changing the head, but that's pretty extensive, but cheaper than $1300.00. Pulling the ac/blower and doing the tap wouldn't kill us to do. The thread chaser is now at the forefront of my thoughts at the moment.

*sigh*
 












1,300?? American?

Ridiculous if you ask me. If they are pulling the head off I could believe $1300.

On the same note, these sohc 4.0's had a timing chain on the back of one of the heads, and I believe it's the passenger side that has it. Which is where the #2 Cylinder is located. So if you do decide to pull the head, be aware of this.

Buy the tap ;)

Benjam :D
 






Yeah, $1300 US seems pretty steep. I am about to call them and tell um I'm gonna have it towed.

Today I'll get that thread chaser and I'll spend some time on it tomorrow. I don't know why I never saw anything on using a thread chaser. I guess my searching was strictly on doing the thread insert method.

I found this last night. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sL9jQcRZek
This makes sense in my situation. Leave it disengaged, then engage it further down in the better threads. I haven't found any info on where to buy it though. Still, I'll take the chance with the thread chaser that y'all have mentioned.

Any ideas on the best way to ensure its started straight?

I appreciate everyone's help with this!
 


















The ac on our tracs is low on the drivers side (1,3,5 cylinders) your mentioning your number two cylinders which would involved the most forward cylinder on the passenger side of the truck which may be blocked by the radiator overflow, alternator, tensioner, and washer fluid tank depending how your going at it. 1300 USD was to remove the motor replace the head on the passenger side (motor removal needed to ease the fact that the cam chain is on the rear of the motor on this side) so for a new head 1300 is fair. I would give it your all first as it can get any worse than that. Right now it's dead in the water so try it all and worst case it's motor swap or ford for a head swap
 






I've used these on several different applications and they work great!

HelicoilSavathread.gif
 






Have you tried running a tap in the hole? You can buy a spark plug tap/thread chaser for around $10. It has the smaller sized spark plugs on one end and the bigger on the other. It also works on o2 sensor threads so it's a reasonable tool to have. Obviously the big part of this would be to keep the tool straight so you can keep the remaining threads in good shape.

If the threads are too far gone, as others have mentioned,timeserts work well. These are commonly used in the 2 valve triton 4.6/5.4 motors once a plug blows out.

In either case you can pack the tools full of bearing grease to catch any shavings from getting into the cylinder.

Good luck!

Benjam :D
Where can I purchase the helicoil thread tool with the spot on top of the tool where I can use an extension
 






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