Blk2kXLT
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- September 2, 2015
- Messages
- 136
- Reaction score
- 43
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- Explorer 2000
So in my apparent never ending quest to kill my knees/back on this SUV, I had to idea to overhaul the suspension when I was told by a local shop that they would not align my explorer. Nice enough they pointed out my joints were shot and the trust angle would no hold.
Of course they offered to fix it for $1k+ (cough, my rusted POS is worth $2k...)
Everyone on uTube seemed to have an easy time popping out the joints and bits I would need to service. Looking back I should of known better given my truck came from Michigan.
Popped onto eBay and grabbed a nice set of hubs + 12 other suspension parts from detroit axle. Also stumbled upon a killer deal on a Torsen T2 for the Dana 35 IFS (sweet)
So took about 8+ hours to swap the front hubs, brakes, axles, upper control arms, tie rods and drop the front axle. Rust really screwed me over as I had to use heat and a sledge to remove parts others seemed to have pop out with a sneeze. I did the work in a few sessions since I didn't have the end seals or halfshafts when I did the hubs/control arms. I also replaced the five shocks in the truck (yes there is a 5th one on the drive axle)
In fact I went and got an alignment after the suspension bits and did the diff swap later. You can retain the precision of the alignment since you don't need to remove the upper control arms or tie rods to get the halfshafts out. Just pop the rod that stick into the top of the knuckle and then remove the bottom of the shock, it gives you enough to remove the axles.
Since the dif was setup w a different ring gear I took the whole front diff into a 4x4 shop to make double sure the contact patch and diff spacing was 100% good as I don't want to do the work again. Even after swapping the shims/ring/bearings the Torsen T2 seemed a tight fit going in but the shop said that is normal.
*How do I create a media location to upload pics?*
Install Tips: Calipers are super easy to take off w 13mm, brake bracket and hubs are 15mm (use red loktite on brake bracket bolts on reinstall), go ahead and swap in the adjustable camber kits when you do the upper control arms (driver side right bolt needs a pickle fork to lift up fuel lines to get bolt out), I cut the end link setup in half since bolt was frozen as it will fall apart allowing for replacement. Front axle only held in by three 13mm bolts and don't fill it before you install it, makes a damn mess.
Of course they offered to fix it for $1k+ (cough, my rusted POS is worth $2k...)
Everyone on uTube seemed to have an easy time popping out the joints and bits I would need to service. Looking back I should of known better given my truck came from Michigan.
Popped onto eBay and grabbed a nice set of hubs + 12 other suspension parts from detroit axle. Also stumbled upon a killer deal on a Torsen T2 for the Dana 35 IFS (sweet)
So took about 8+ hours to swap the front hubs, brakes, axles, upper control arms, tie rods and drop the front axle. Rust really screwed me over as I had to use heat and a sledge to remove parts others seemed to have pop out with a sneeze. I did the work in a few sessions since I didn't have the end seals or halfshafts when I did the hubs/control arms. I also replaced the five shocks in the truck (yes there is a 5th one on the drive axle)
In fact I went and got an alignment after the suspension bits and did the diff swap later. You can retain the precision of the alignment since you don't need to remove the upper control arms or tie rods to get the halfshafts out. Just pop the rod that stick into the top of the knuckle and then remove the bottom of the shock, it gives you enough to remove the axles.
Since the dif was setup w a different ring gear I took the whole front diff into a 4x4 shop to make double sure the contact patch and diff spacing was 100% good as I don't want to do the work again. Even after swapping the shims/ring/bearings the Torsen T2 seemed a tight fit going in but the shop said that is normal.
*How do I create a media location to upload pics?*
Install Tips: Calipers are super easy to take off w 13mm, brake bracket and hubs are 15mm (use red loktite on brake bracket bolts on reinstall), go ahead and swap in the adjustable camber kits when you do the upper control arms (driver side right bolt needs a pickle fork to lift up fuel lines to get bolt out), I cut the end link setup in half since bolt was frozen as it will fall apart allowing for replacement. Front axle only held in by three 13mm bolts and don't fill it before you install it, makes a damn mess.
