Swapping Shocks (Doesn't match Chiltons)

[Sublime0069]

Hi,
Just wondering if anyone has any advice...[99 XLT]
Looked at my Chiltons manual, and changing shocks didn't appear that difficult. Ordered the Edelbrocks from EE, and went to install them today. Figured start with the rear, easiest access. Unfortunately, the upper mount looks different in the book than it actually is. The nuts that are above the mount; after removing, is it really a challenge to get them back on? I'll admit, I'm not very good with tight spaces. If its going to be a really tight squeeze, I'll probably just have them professionally installed.

Any advice is appreciated

 

[Hartman]

The upper mount on the shock should have a dogbone on it.....the bolts go through the crossmember and bolts to the top of it. To reach the bolts, you simply need to remove the spare tire. Don't give up and unneccesarily spend more $$$.

 

[DeRocha]

Hartman has good advise as always.... I just swapped my shocks last week (after taking forever to figure out which ones to get). Anyway some shocks are universal and may come with a small parts bag containing the upper bracket (dogbone) and lower sleeves to match your bolt diameter. If not already in place you'd need to press or use a dead blow hammer to whack them in place. If I'm reading your post correctly the shocks appear to be ok, but your just looking for assurance the job is not the bad correct?

Anyway I would soak the threads with PB blaster or other pentrating oil. Depending on the bolt condition some people hit the threads a few times a day for a couple of days in a row to really let the penetrating oil do its thing.

 

[spta97]

I found that the upper rear bolts did not rust nearly as much as the lowers - I guess less water got up there. It is an easy job - the fronts are harder. Once you do one side it is a piece of cake.

I used the Haynes manual and I beleive the torque ratings for the upper bolts were way off - I just tighted them normally and have not had a problem.

 

[Sublime0069]

Y'all were right. We jacked the truck up on stands, tossed the spare tire, and with an impact wrench and some awkward angles with regular wrenches, we had both the front and rear off and swapped in about 2 hours. The factory shocks had nothing left (You could straighten your arm, palm the shock, and compress them fully) The body doesn't sway near as much now when its tipped; overall seems like it has more control. Then again, it could be the placebo effect, but I think it was worth the change.