Sway bar squeek?

[RichCresci]

After installing my road bully lift I seem to have developed an incredibully annoying skweek! I'm almost positive it's the sway bar bushings but I'm not sure. Any body having the same problem? Thanks

 

[therealblinky]

it`s an easy fix. to check if it is just get under their with dome wd40 or spray lube and soak the bushings. if it stops the squeek then replace em

 

[Carguy3J]

After installing my road bully lift I seem to have developed an incredibully annoying skweek! I'm almost positive it's the sway bar bushings but I'm not sure. Any body having the same problem? Thanks

Could be, sway bar bushing tend to get ignored a lot. I don't know how many cars/trucks I've bought/worked on that have actually had completely missing end-links. It makes you wonder about the driving ability of the owner/previous owner that they wouldn't have noticed that?

In any case, I would recommend replacing them with polyurethane bushings (end links and frame bushings). Energy Suspension is one well-known company that makes them. They are firmer than stock, provided much better body roll-control. This is even more important for good street handling if you have lifted your vehicle, as the increased ride height/center-of-gravity allows for more body roll/sway and has greater "leverage" on the sway bar/bushings, making it less effective.

Another important thing to keep in mind, if you have changed the ride height of your vehicle, up or down, you need to adjust the end-link lengths. In your case, with a lift, you'll need to lengthen your end links, approx. the same amount of your lift.
You can purchase end link kits (w/bushings), with various lengths. Then by cutting the sleeve to the proper length, you will be able to restore the proper sway bar geometery. What is that, you may ask? Well, when the vehicle is sitting on level ground, at final ride height (be sure to let it settle after any suspension changes), the proper end-link length is the one which allows both ends of the bar to be at the same distance from the lower control arm, and which allows the end link itself to be perpendicular to it's mounting surface on the lower control arm, as well as ensuring that there is no or minimal tension on the endlink bushings (when at even ride height) This ensures that there is no preload on the bar.

 

[RichCresci]

Good thinking! Does anyone happen to know how long stock is on the end links? And if i did 2.5 inches of lift would I need stock plus 2.5? Also, without using a micrometer, how fo I know if it's a 32 or 33mm bar?It's currently 30 degrees out so once it warms up or I get garage access I'll check it out.
Thanks again!

 

[Carguy3J]

Good thinking! Does anyone happen to know how long stock is on the end links? And if i did 2.5 inches of lift would I need stock plus 2.5? Also, without using a micrometer, how fo I know if it's a 32 or 33mm bar?It's currently 30 degrees out so once it warms up or I get garage access I'll check it out.
Thanks again!

Well, I'm guessing that it APPROX. the same as your lift. I'm sure it's not an exact 1-1, due to lever arm ratios,etc....blah,blah,blah. Just measure what's there, or go to Autozone or something, and have them pull out a stock replacment end-link repair kit. Measure it, and then walk over to the section where they a bunch of Energy Suspension stuff, and buy and end-link kit approx 2-2.5 inches longer than stock. You can then cut the sleeve and bolt to whatever length you need.

Actually, according to the listing I see, the 31 and 32mm bars take the same frame bushing. There is also a listing for a 29mm/30mm bar. I guess the best bet is to measure it when you can. http://www.energysuspension.com/products/Sway-Bar-End-Link-Bushings.html
Also, be sure to use the Energy Suspension lube. Using chassis grease or WD-40,etc.... will destroy the bushings.
Oh, and also don't forget, you'll need to the same thing with the rear sway bar links as well. I don't know how they attach on your model with the IRS, so it may require making/modifying custom end lind links to get the right length. It is very important though A vehicle with greater rear roll-stiffness, compared to the front, is prone to oversteer; sometimes unpredicatably. If you have preload on your rear sway bar, but not the front, it will have greater rear roll stiffness.

 

[RichCresci]

I was in auto zone yesterday and saw all the energy susp stuff but I couldn't seem to find end links long enough. Stock is about 12 inches so I would need something about 15 inches long. Without custom making something where could I goabout finding something that long? Thanks again!

 

[Carguy3J]

I was in auto zone yesterday and saw all the energy susp stuff but I couldn't seem to find end links long enough. Stock is about 12 inches so I would need something about 15 inches long. Without custom making something where could I goabout finding something that long? Thanks again!

Click this link, scroll down near the bottom: http://www.energysuspension.com/universal-products/sway-bar-end-links-set-sizing-charts.html
It will tell you how to size the links. As I said, my estimate of the increase you need is a guess. Disconnect your existing links, then rotate the bar ends to be parallel to the LCA, then measure how long the link needs to be. The difference between the old overall length, and the new length is how much more you need to SLEEVE to be over your old SLEEVE. The picture and instructions in the above link should make it pretty clear.

Try this link here to the Autozonew website, look at the 3 pictures, it will give you a better idea of how the links go together:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...Kit&store=1806&searchText=&brandName=Duralast
It looks like Energy only has up to a 4-1/2" sleeve. (My stock SLEEVE is 3-1/2") If you should happen to need one longer, it's just a steel tube (3/8" or 7/16"-ID). I think Home Depot sells it. You could also try a hardware store, a speed shop, or a steel company. (R.S. Philips, in/near Vernon, NJ, if you're up this way). You'll probably have to buy something longer than you need, but just cut to length. (Do NOT be tempted to use copper water pipe or something. That tube will have to endure quite a bit of compressive forces when you're cornering.

As for the bolt, it's also just a really long bolt.(3/8") Maybe Home Depot, but a good hardware store, or specialty fastner place. (again, if you're near northern NJ, Schaefer(spelling?) Supply in Dover, or Fastenal, in Flanders or Mt. Olive) Although the parts store stuff doesn't appear to be graded, I would stick to grade 5 or even grade 8, if you can.

The part # 9.8121 is for a complete end link set, with a 4-1/2" sleeve. Nbody seems to have it though. 9.8149G is the same thing with 4-1/4" sleeves. Autozone should have these for $22. I would get this, and replace the bolt/sleeve if needed.

 

[RichCresci]

I think I'm going to just wind up buying the grade 8 bolt and a new sleeve. Everything I've found seems to be too small. Thanks for all your help! I'll let you know how it works out.

 

[RichCresci]

The Hunt is on.

So after searching and calling for 2 days the only luck I've had is a 1/2x14" bolt at a local hardware store. I'm still yet to get under the truck and see exactly what I need but 1/2" seems a little big to me.

 

[Carguy3J]

So after searching and calling for 2 days the only luck I've had is a 1/2x14" bolt at a local hardware store. I'm still yet to get under the truck and see exactly what I need but 1/2" seems a little big to me.

I looked in Home Depot yesterday. They have Grade 8 3/8" bolts, up to 6in long. It's in those orange drawers (the "specialty" hardware). However, on second thought, you could also use threaded rod and cut to length. I know they have that. They also should 3/8" ID tube, next to threaded rod. It's also in the hardware aisle, should be between the bolts and the chain-by-the-foot. The 3/8"-ID tube is a very tight fit though. After you cut it to length, you might want to run a drill bit thru it to open it up a bit. (13/32 or 7/16).

I would definitely still change the bushings too. Correcting the end link length will fix a problem, but not the squeak. You can get the energy stuff as just the bushings, but then you don't get the new "washers"/cups. I guess you could reuse the old ones of they're not to cruddy.

 

[RichCresci]

I have good news!!! after new sway bar bushings and tons of grease I've determined that the squeak is not coming from the sway bar! The bad news is I have no idea where it's coming from. And as far as the end links go there's only about a half inch of room to extend them before they hit the control arm Besides, I don't think the sound is coming from there anymore, it has to be one of the other bushings somewhere under the front end. Also it's happening on both front wheels independently. If that makes helps rule out anything. At this point it's not the sound that's bothering it's the thought that something could be going bad. Lastly I lifted the truck and everything was fine, The noise started immediately after I got it aligned a week later(noticed the sound as i left the parking lot). Could this just be coincidental?

 

[Carguy3J]

I have good news!!! after new sway bar bushings and tons of grease I've determined that the squeak is not coming from the sway bar! The bad news is I have no idea where it's coming from. And as far as the end links go there's only about a half inch of room to extend them before they hit the control arm Besides, I don't think the sound is coming from there anymore, it has to be one of the other bushings somewhere under the front end. Also it's happening on both front wheels independently. If that makes helps rule out anything. At this point it's not the sound that's bothering it's the thought that something could be going bad. Lastly I lifted the truck and everything was fine, The noise started immediately after I got it aligned a week later(noticed the sound as i left the parking lot). Could this just be coincidental?

You did the all the sway bar bushings; the frame bushings, as well as the endlinks?
I guess maybe, when they did the alignment, it put one of the upper control bushings in a bind, and that could be the squeak you're hearing? You might also want to check that those bolts are all tight. I had a '97 Sport that had the upper control arm bolts on one side come a little loose and allowed the uca to move in and out as the suspension cycled.
It could be the strut mount bushings. I have a car now where they squeak horribly.
Of course, it could just be a coincidence?

When does it make the noise? Just over bumps? Does it do it if you turn left/right while parked?

 

[RichCresci]

It only makes the sound over bumps, I did the sway bar bushings and the end links are fine. I think it's either the UCA or LCA bushings or maybe even the strut mount. Without changing them all is there any way to determine which one? I tried dousing everything in WD-40, that didn't work.

 

[ericautopart]

WD 40 isn't going to do it. Energy suspension sells a super grease. NOTHING would quiet my steeda sway bar on my car. I bought the sway bar used but the endlinks new so the bar didn't come with instructions or the grease. Once I used the super grease from energy suspension it was quiet. And I had the same issue..only over bumps but it was loud and obnoxious. Stop w/ the wd 40 and just wait until you get some of the super grease in there.

http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-11104-Formula-Prelube/dp/B000CN7B4I

 

[RichCresci]

I wasn't tying to fix it with the WD-40 but just trying to trouble shoot exactly where the sound is coming from. I'm Convinced it's not the sway bar.

 

[ericautopart]

So was I, until I lubed it w/ the super lube. Just trying to help..But w/ a sway bar wd40 won't silent the creak

 

[RichCresci]

I understand what your saying but I already covered all the sway war contact points very thoroughly with standard automotive grease and that didn't even change the sound at al which leads me to believe it's something different.

 

[Carguy3J]

I understand what your saying but I already covered all the sway war contact points very thoroughly with standard automotive grease and that didn't even change the sound at al which leads me to believe it's something different.

As I said several posts ago, chassis grease/wd-40/etc... anything petroleum based is only going to soften, degrade, and eventually destroy rubber/polyurethane bushings. It also does not do a very good job of lubing it.
In fact, wd-40 will give the rubber more "bite" as it softens it, instead of lubing it.

I used to race a dirt track stock car. Wanna know a secret for reviving an old, hardened tire?....... After thoroughly scrubbing any dirt out of the pores of the tread, liberally spray the tread with........... WD-40. Let it dry for a few hours, and viola, you've get a nice soft, "grippy" tire again, for 10-15 laps at least, as the WD only penetrates a few mm of the tread.
Some guy also swore by a combo treatment of WD and marvel mystery oil, as it adds different chemicals back to the rubber.

 

[RichCresci]

Wanna know a secret for reviving an old, hardened tire?....... After thoroughly scrubbing any dirt out of the pores of the tread, liberally spray the tread with........... WD-40. Let it dry for a few hours, and viola, you've get a nice soft, "grippy" tire again, for 10-15 laps at least, as the WD only penetrates a few mm of the tread.
Some guy also swore by a combo treatment of WD and marvel mystery oil, as it adds different chemicals back to the rubber.

Interesting Tip, I understand that I should be using the proper suspension lube however I strongly feel that it is not the sway bar squeaking anymore, I think it's one of the control arm bushings because of the erratic pattern in the sound.

 

[BajaXplorer]

check your bushings on the top of the front struts, they tend to fail after about 80k miles..replacement ones can be had here cheaply, and work on stock struts.

http://www.ajusa.com/details/KYB-SM.../366/KYB/4707/0?vc=KYB&pn=Shock+Mounting+Kit&