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testing cruise control switches

dynamite196

Well-Known Member
Joined
September 22, 2006
Messages
491
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City, State
Glastonbury, Connecticut
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 Sport
Is there any way to test the switches on the steering wheel? I have a 97 sport, manual tranny; the control switch on the right doesn't light up and i don't have cruise, just wanna be sure that's the problem before I order them, thanks.
 



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It is common for the switches not to light up as the bulbs inside them like to burn out, but they should still work. I have an automatic so i don't know how it is set up exactly, but there is a wire harness connected to the brake fluid reservoir that is part of the cruise control system. Maybe someone else can chime in with more info.
 






It is common for the switches not to light up as the bulbs inside them like to burn out, but they should still work. I have an automatic so i don't know how it is set up exactly, but there is a wire harness connected to the brake fluid reservoir that is part of the cruise control system. Maybe someone else can chime in with more info.

What if the cruise control indicator on the dash does not light up? I am talking about the continuous speed light, the one above the overdrive off light
 






that's the problem i have, the cruise light on the dash doesn't light up either and i believe this is a direct cause of the switch on the steering wheel not working
 






Check the yellow 20A fuse in the fuse panel under the hood (check the manual for the number) drivers' side, mounts lengthwise by the fender. The fuse blows, and disables the cruise. It's fixed many a cruise issue. When you replace it and the cruise works, more than likely your cruise buttons won't light up. The cruise can work even if the bulbs do not, they burn out quickly.

Look for one of these fuses, sorry I don't have the number, and Snowball is not here... :)

100_4801.jpg
 






well, there isn't anything special about the cruise control switch(es).... they are plain switches... get a meter and test them for continuity when they are depress.... if there is none then they are broke and need to be replaced. Having said that, it is unlikely that the switches are bad, its more likely a broken wire problem heading from the switches to the clockspring and then to the speed control / amplifier assembly.
 






fuse is good, looks like i'm going to have to pull the wheel apart over the weekend, any special tips or tricks for it? I've gotten it down to the clock spring before, haven't actually pulled it out though
 






the lights can be replaced in the switches
 






I wouldn't start pulling the spring until you have tested the switches at the wheel... relatively ease. Disconnect battery to stop air bag from blowing in your face. undo bolts holding air, disconnect, remove, disconnect switches and measure for continuity while depressing each switch. If they are good then trace cables towards spring and look for "bad wires"... some people have seen "ravaged" cabling from metal work. Hopefully you won't have to pull things to remove / replace the clock spring.
 






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