THEFT Blinking, motor turns over fine but wont start. What do i do now?

[oldcarfan]

ive used the search and im pretty sure what the problem is but i didnt see any of the previous threads have the exact situationi have so i figured i would ask you guys for some help.


my 2000 explorer was a roll over so i am currently using it for another project. i stripped the expo done to basically the firewall engine and frame. everything else was cut off, it still ran and drove fine after all this stripping and cutting up the body. like an idiot i started fabriaction on the truck (frame cutting and welding ect ect) and i didnt disconnect the battery. i would still turn it on every now and then and let it run.

the other day it started flashing THEFT on the dash and now all it does is turn over, it wont start. did i fry something welding? could i of cut a wire somewhere and not known it? i checked all the fuses they seem fine, i disconnected the battery and hooked it back up hoping that would reset it, but it didnt work either.

please help im an old school car guy and not to fimilar with the computer systems in newer cars. im ok with taking it to the dealer if i have to but i would much rather fix it myself considering its still very much under constuction.

thanks in advance.

 

[SparkyJeff]

Problem is in the Passive anti theft system or PATS.

here is a thread with plenty of info for you

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234975

Welcome, and good luck

 

[2000StreetRod]

theft rapidly flashing

If the theft flashes rapidly on the 2000 when cranking the starter then the fuel injectors are disabled by the PCM. It is very possible that the current flow from welding has altered something. I would have disconnected the PCM as well as the battery when welding. Have you tried another ignition key?

 

[oldcarfan]

If the theft flashes rapidly on the 2000 when cranking the starter then the fuel injectors are disabled by the PCM. It is very possible that the current flow from welding has altered something. I would have disconnected the PCM as well as the battery when welding. Have you tried another ignition key?

yes it flashes while cranking, i only have one key.

 

[oldcarfan]

Problem is in the Passive anti theft system or PATS.

here is a thread with plenty of info for you

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=234975

Welcome, and good luck

that thread is awesome, but it doesnt help me very much because i cant reset the theft code because i dont have another key, and i dont have doors on the frame to unlock ( which seems to be away do reset the code)

 

[2000StreetRod]

OBD-II Port

Is your OBD-II still functional? I believe that PATS communicates with the PCM via the OBD-II bus. If you cut any of the bus wires there will be a problem. Do have access to a code reader to check the OBD-II port?

 

[oldcarfan]

Is your OBD-II still functional? I believe that PATS communicates with the PCM via the OBD-II bus. If you cut any of the bus wires there will be a problem. Do have access to a code reader to check the OBD-II port?

what the hell is a obd-II ?

 

[2000StreetRod]

check fuses

The OBD-II port is located next to the hood release. It is what a code reader plugs into. It is also what a locksmith uses to program a new PATS key.

It sounds like your PCM is still functional since the starter cranks. Does the Check light illuminate when the ignition key is switched from off to Run? Do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds when the key is switched from off to Run?

I suggest that you check the fuses associated with PATS. Look in your Owners Guide to find out which ones. Maybe you got lucky and the welding just blew a fuse.

 

[oldcarfan]

ok thanks ill double check those fuses out and get back if its not the problem.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Fuse 25 & Fuse 19

I just got home. You should check Fuse 25 (7.5A) and Fuse 19 (25A) in the Central Junction Box. I'm confident that Fuse 25 is good since the Theft light is flashing.

Theft should flash every two seconds with key Off.

 

[oldcarfan]

the fuses were fine, same problem as before. i called the dealership to see if they had any ideas/ maybe make an appointement to have it looked at, and the mechanic i talked to said i most likely blew the PCM, he said theres a truck company in town that welds frames and they blow a couple a year from forgettting to un hook the battery?

could that be the problem???

 

[purevenom1]

Is there a fuel cut off switch? Check that to see if it is tripped.

 

[oldcarfan]

Is there a fuel cut off switch? Check that to see if it is tripped.

i havent checked yet, and dont even know if they have one.
ill google where its located and check, hell its worth a shot

 

[2000StreetRod]

Cel?

Does the Check light illuminate when the ignition key is switched from off to Run?

Do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds when the key is switched from off to Run?

 

[purevenom1]

check the fuel rail and see it you have fuel at the shrader valve. Think the explorer has one. if you have fuel then the pump and the cut off should be good.

 

[oldcarfan]

i dont hear the fuel pump when i turn the key, the THEFT code stays completly lit when trying to start the car, not blinking.

it blinks every couple seconds when im not trying to start it too.

it was to dark last night to check the fuel pump cutoff switch ill try it today and see if thats the problem.

 

[budwich]

sounds "kind of normal"... the theft light should "blink" when the vehicle is just sitting there. Put your key in and turn it to just "on"... the light should eventually go from solid to OFF completely (along with the CEL light staying lit which someone else already asked about). IF that doesn't happen, you are wasting your time doing anything else as you likely have a key problem, a pickup problem, or a comms problem between the pickup and the PATS and / or a PATS problem.

 

[oldcarfan]

sounds "kind of normal"... the theft light should "blink" when the vehicle is just sitting there. Put your key in and turn it to just "on"... the light should eventually go from solid to OFF completely (along with the CEL light staying lit which someone else already asked about). IF that doesn't happen, you are wasting your time doing anything else as you likely have a key problem, a pickup problem, or a comms problem between the pickup and the PATS and / or a PATS problem.

turned the key ON and it stayed solid for a minute and then started blinking rapidly...

 

[budwich]

thanks.... that kind of confirms the "aforementioned".... basically, IF the light never extinguishes when just sitting in the "on" position, you have a "key recognition" issue. As indicated, the "signal" path involves the key (of course), the pickup in the column, the wire towards the pats and the PATS. There are better experts than me on PATS (as I have only learned from posts herein this forum) but one of the main issues is the inductive pickup on the column... you might have caused it issues. Although its more likely that you might have done something to its driver and the subsequent data stream going to the PATS module.

I guess the one "funny" about your overall post is that you have started it in the "past" and never noticed the operation of the theft light... which seems strange as the light is pretty obvious. I assume you only have one key... :-(

 

[oldcarfan]

yep only one key, it ran great for a month before i started working on it adn even then i didnt have any problems for awhile. welding just seems to be the only thing i can think of that i did out of the ordinary.

i got real excited a min it ago the fuel cut off switch was up!!! i pushed it back down and figured that would be the problem.....

but it wasnt it still has the theft code and is still not running