Those who have changed out stock thermostat housing, how many years/miles has your aftermarket replacement lasted?

[glo81]

I'm asking because this past weekend I had to change my thermostat housing for the third time in four years. My stock thermostat housing started leaking around 172K miles in Nov 2017. I took it to my mechanic back then when I didn't know what the source of the coolant leak was. About a year later, it went bad so I replaced it myself with a Dorman I got on Amazon after learning from here how easy it is to change yourself (except for the small space to work with for the bypass hose). I bought the Dorman not realizing my mechanic had used the exact same part. Anyhow, this second one lasted till last Friday (three years and about 32K miles) when I saw another large puddle and then examined the housing to see dried up coolant around the seams. If I hadn't needed to change it ASAP this past weekend, then I would have spent money on a Motorcraft housing or an aluminum housing. But I didn't have the time to wait for parts so I went to AutoZone and got their Duralast brand (Made in Israel per the box) for $75 plus tax (a ripoff, I know).

I'd read a couple threads in the past that there is only one brand of aluminum housing that people here would recommend, so I'm wondering if anyone who has an aluminum housing can chime in with how theirs has held up.

 

[J_C]

I don't have an '02 let alone aluminum t-stat housing for one, but from what I gather the metal ones last practically forever. Which engine do you have? Even so, on my '98 4.0L SOHC, the stock one is still hanging on so when it comes time to replace it, I'll probably just get the Motorcraft since it's less expensive, and since the original has lasted far longer than I expect the remaining lifespan of the vehicle to be.

I try to avoid Dorman for parts like this... once got their plastic intake manifold for a GM 3800 engine, unfortunately let it sit around till past the seller return period. It was barely even usable (or else I'd have returned it for a refund) and first one broke a sensor mount just putting it on, so Dorman sent a replacement that was barely any better... It was brittle and off dimensionally, and I also had to MELT the upper gasket carrier/frame to even make it the right dimensions. Fortunately the gasket frame on that is only needed for initial positioning, then the gasket will stay in place from fastening down the upper intake manifold.

 

[glo81]

I don't have an '02 let alone aluminum t-stat housing for one, but from what I gather the metal ones last practically forever. Which engine do you have? Even so, on my '98 4.0L SOHC, the stock one is still hanging on so when it comes time to replace it, I'll probably just get the Motorcraft since it's less expensive, and since the original has lasted far longer than I expect the remaining lifespan of the vehicle to be.

I try to avoid Dorman for parts like this... once got their plastic intake manifold for a GM 3800 engine, unfortunately let it sit around till past the seller return period. It was barely even usable (or else I'd have returned it for a refund) and first one broke a sensor mount just putting it on, so Dorman sent a replacement that was barely any better... It was brittle and off dimensionally, and I also had to MELT the upper gasket carrier/frame to even make it the right dimensions. Fortunately the gasket frame on that is only needed for initial positioning, then the gasket will stay in place from fastening down the upper intake manifold.

I have the 4.0L SOHC. After this second Dorman failure, I definitely would avoid them in the future. You have a good plan for when your stock might need to be changed out by getting Motorcraft. If any of my local Ford dealers had had it in stock on Saturday, I would have gladly paid $100+ for a new assembly. I realized that AutoZone often brands their parts as their Duralast brand, but the part can actually just be Dorman or whoever else is their supplier. The housing I bought over the weekend was actually Motorad once I researched, and on RockAuto the part would have cost me $58 with tax and shipping, so I can live with paying $75 plus tax for it at AutoZone.

 

[TechGuru]

I'm asking because this past weekend I had to change my thermostat housing for the third time in four years. My stock thermostat housing started leaking around 172K miles in Nov 2017. I took it to my mechanic back then when I didn't know what the source of the coolant leak was. About a year later, it went bad so I replaced it myself with a Dorman I got on Amazon after learning from here how easy it is to change yourself (except for the small space to work with for the bypass hose). I bought the Dorman not realizing my mechanic had used the exact same part. Anyhow, this second one lasted till last Friday (three years and about 32K miles) when I saw another large puddle and then examined the housing to see dried up coolant around the seams. If I hadn't needed to change it ASAP this past weekend, then I would have spent money on a Motorcraft housing or an aluminum housing. But I didn't have the time to wait for parts so I went to AutoZone and got their Duralast brand (Made in Israel per the box) for $75 plus tax (a ripoff, I know).

I'd read a couple threads in the past that there is only one brand of aluminum housing that people here would recommend, so I'm wondering if anyone who has an aluminum housing can chime in with how theirs has held up.

The one I got from OReilly's (Masterpro?) only lasted a few months. Then I got a SKP metal one and it's been fine ever since.

From what I've heard only get a metal one or a Motorcraft plastic one. No aftermarket plastic ones.

Two-Sensor Metal Housing: $40.79 More Information for SKP SKRH144D

One-Sensor Metal Housing: $34.79 More Information for SKP SK121259

Sidenote: The SKP's come with a thermostat and sensor(s). I would not trust these. I would get a new Motorcraft thermostat and swap over the original sensor(s).

 

[glo81]

The one I got from OReilly's (Masterpro?) only lasted a few months. Then I got a SKP metal one and it's been fine ever since.

From what I've heard only get a metal one or a Motorcraft plastic one. No aftermarket plastic ones.

Two-Sensor Metal Housing: $40.79 More Information for SKP SKRH144D

One-Sensor Metal Housing: $34.79 More Information for SKP SK121259

I'm surprised that SKP housing is only $35. Hopefully this Motorad housing I got from AZ lasts at least longer than my second Dorman did, and then when/if I have to replace it again, I'll have the time to wait for a part to be ordered (either SKP aluminum or Motorcraft plastic). What's annoying about getting Motorcraft is that you have to order each piece of the assembly individually, down to the gaskets.

 

[J_C]

The one I got from OReilly's (Masterpro?) only lasted a few months. Then I got a SKP metal one and it's been fine ever since.

From what I've heard only get a metal one or a Motorcraft plastic one. No aftermarket plastic ones.

Two-Sensor Metal Housing: $40.79 More Information for SKP SKRH144D

One-Sensor Metal Housing: $34.79 More Information for SKP SK121259

I had no idea they were that inexpensive. I wouldn't even consider another plastic with those low prices, though for my '98 it seems to take a different part # and none offered from SKP are metal, so other brands' metal were more expensive last time I looked.

 

[glo81]

Even so, on my '98 4.0L SOHC

Was wondering how many miles you have on your '98? There are two of those in my extended family (EB trim) that are still alive and kicking as well.

 

[J_C]

^ It's only got ~105K mi on it, hasn't been my daily driver for years, except during winter when they salt the roads. Mostly used for short trips, the last 15K or so miles have been hard ones.

It's been great to keep other newer vehicles from suffering rust damage, and not get stuck in snow too, but as a result it has some cargo area and rocker panel holes now... a body shop even replaced the rocker panels and doglegs a dozen years ago, but nearly a dozen years later, they need redone. It keeps nickel and dimeing me, considering how few miles I put on it now. If I couldn't DIY all other repairs so far, it wouldn't be worth keeping but that's just the way it goes when they salt the roads if there is even a hint that it might snow. On the bright side my '14 Explorer, looks near brand new still, almost no rust on the undercarriage yet.

 

[glo81]

^ It's only got ~105K mi on it, hasn't been my daily driver for years, except during winter when they salt the roads. Mostly used for short trips, the last 15K or so miles have been hard ones.

It's been great to keep other newer vehicles from suffering rust damage, and not get stuck in snow too, but as a result it has some cargo area and rocker panel holes now... a body shop even replaced the rocker panels and doglegs a dozen years ago, but nearly a dozen years later, they need redone. It keeps nickel and dimeing me, considering how few miles I put on it now. If I couldn't DIY all other repairs so far, it wouldn't be worth keeping but that's just the way it goes when they salt the roads if there is even a hint that it might snow. On the bright side my '14 Explorer, looks near brand new still, almost no rust on the undercarriage yet.

It sounds like the '98 has been a good "beater car" for you, especially to keep your newer '14 in pristine shape. I'm sure if you were out here in California, your '98 would probably still be in pristine shape as well since we don't have the same salt/snow/rust conditions. I'd love to get the latest gen Explorer but my '02 "beater" is not ready to let me (for better or worse).