Timing chain issues/preventive maintenance | Ford Explorer Forums

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Timing chain issues/preventive maintenance

Ruby2004

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Joined
August 4, 2013
Messages
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City, State
Westfield IN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 Explorer Eddie Bauer
2010 Explorer, Eddie Bauer, 144K miles, 4.0 V6
Coming to a decision point on keeping or trading. The vehicle is pristine. I read about timing chain issues. If I decide to keep it for the long run (another 60K - 75K), should I change the timing chains now...or wait until it starts sending signals that problems are imminent? How common is the timing chain issue?
 



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Does it rattle when you start it In the morning?
 






Does it rattle when you start it In the morning?
No rattles when starting or any other time. Oil changes every 3K - 5K miles with semi-synthetic oil. Conservatively driven.
 






If it is not rattling on start up then the timing components are likely fine
I would change the oil every 3,000 m not 3-5 and use only M 1 full synthetic
 






I have a 2010 v6 with 179k miles original chains oil changed at 5k mile intervals since it had ~75k on the odo. before 75k I just went by when the dash told me. now I do have a ticking noise only when the oil is cold (less then 30f) and it goes away once warm. this tick has been there for ~115k miles and hasent gotten worse. I also do not have the chain rattle during acceleration like the typical 4.0 rattle will have. so as long as you change your oil and filter regularly you should be fine. oil brand and type (full syn or semi syn) doesnt matter as much as long as you do regular oil changes. I would say that a quality oil filter is more important than oil brand.

btw around 2016 I got a quote from a dealership to do the chains it was around $4k back then i cant imagine what it would be now. an independant shop may be cheaper. if you are not doing the chains yourself then it may not be worth it. they require a special set of tools to hold the camshafts in place so you dont loose timing. last i checked the tools where $500 alone. the reason for the expense from a shop is the engine or transmission has to be pulled from the vehicle (preferably the engine) to get to a cover where there is a bolt that holds the rear chain sprocket to the jackshaft. if you do the chains yourself they can be done without removing the engine but the transmission has to be removed and it is very tight working conditions.

In case you want to know what oil I run its full synthetic pensoil platnium price wise this is the cheapest oil I have used and reduces the startup tick. I have also done used oil analysis' on this vehicle with different oils and the oil reports come back very similar to each other and thats good. really the only metal that varied alot was iron and that was do to how much idling the engine got. In case you are wondering the other oils i have run they are royal purple, amsoil, schaeffers oil, valvoline, and redline. redline was the most expensive at a little over $80 just for the oil and the report for it came back with the oil a little thinner than a 5w30 but everything else looked great.

lastly if you want the piece of mind and are going to drive it till the wheels fall off then get the timing chains done. if not worry about other things like the transmission.
 






I have a 2010 v6 with 179k miles original chains oil changed at 5k mile intervals since it had ~75k on the odo. before 75k I just went by when the dash told me. now I do have a ticking noise only when the oil is cold (less then 30f) and it goes away once warm. this tick has been there for ~115k miles and hasent gotten worse. I also do not have the chain rattle during acceleration like the typical 4.0 rattle will have. so as long as you change your oil and filter regularly you should be fine. oil brand and type (full syn or semi syn) doesnt matter as much as long as you do regular oil changes. I would say that a quality oil filter is more important than oil brand.

btw around 2016 I got a quote from a dealership to do the chains it was around $4k back then i cant imagine what it would be now. an independant shop may be cheaper. if you are not doing the chains yourself then it may not be worth it. they require a special set of tools to hold the camshafts in place so you dont loose timing. last i checked the tools where $500 alone. the reason for the expense from a shop is the engine or transmission has to be pulled from the vehicle (preferably the engine) to get to a cover where there is a bolt that holds the rear chain sprocket to the jackshaft. if you do the chains yourself they can be done without removing the engine but the transmission has to be removed and it is very tight working conditions.

In case you want to know what oil I run its full synthetic pensoil platnium price wise this is the cheapest oil I have used and reduces the startup tick. I have also done used oil analysis' on this vehicle with different oils and the oil reports come back very similar to each other and thats good. really the only metal that varied alot was iron and that was do to how much idling the engine got. In case you are wondering the other oils i have run they are royal purple, amsoil, schaeffers oil, valvoline, and redline. redline was the most expensive at a little over $80 just for the oil and the report for it came back with the oil a little thinner than a 5w30 but everything else looked great.

lastly if you want the piece of mind and are going to drive it till the wheels fall off then get the timing chains done. if not worry about other things like the transmission.
Thanks for the responses.
 






2010 Explorer, Eddie Bauer, 144K miles, 4.0 V6
Coming to a decision point on keeping or trading. The vehicle is pristine. I read about timing chain issues. If I decide to keep it for the long run (another 60K - 75K), should I change the timing chains now...or wait until it starts sending signals that problems are imminent? How common is the timing chain issue?

Some months ago, I found that video on Youtube: How to replace timing chain tensioners 4.0 EASY

There are some people that replace only the right and left upper tensioners as a preventive measure. I believe I also read something related to this here, but I can't find the posts now.

Mine is 92K mi now, and I am also thinking of some preventive maintenance for that problem, but I am not sure if changing only the tensioners would mitigate the problem.
 












Many thanks for your responses as well as the posted videos. Much to think about.
It appears there are two schools of thought: Change the tensioners every 75K - 90K preventively (A Forum recommendation, not Ford) or wait until you hear the rattle and address it then...sort of a "don't fix it if it ain't broken" approach.
Thanks again.
 






Many thanks for your responses as well as the posted videos. Much to think about.
It appears there are two schools of thought: Change the tensioners every 75K - 90K preventively (A Forum recommendation, not Ford) or wait until you hear the rattle and address it then...sort of a "don't fix it if it ain't broken" approach.
Thanks again.
Or option 3
 












That's a tough question I suggest just reading through all of the threads and deciding for yourself
Would really hate to lead you down a path that you don't really understand too well
I use an accumulator style
 






If it is not rattling on start up then the timing components are likely fine
I would change the oil every 3,000 m not 3-5 and use only M 1 full synthetic
Would Amsoil work better or not worth the price difference?
 






I don't think it's worth the price difference
 






Do you recommend an adaptive to the oil that would help the life of guides?
 






No just change it often use synthetic always a new motorcraft filter
 






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