Total failure of rear wheel bearing - what you get for $100 from a salvage yard in NJ

[Explorer_PL]

It was not a fun day when driving to work one morning this week. I heard a loud bang and within a mile or so the car started making a horrible grinding noise. First I thought that one of the driveshafts came loose since I was working on them recently, but I crawled under the car and shook everything and they were solid. The car was not drivable, so I called AAA and got towed home. While waiting I checked all the wheels and noticed the passenger rear wheel has some play when I pushed the whole car. That gave me an idea that something gave back there. Took the wheel off at home and sure enough the rear wheel bearing was completely shot. The wheel was dancing around and was held just by the axle, the hub was on its way out of the bearing. I have few theories since I had this bearing pressed in maybe a month ago and I used a Timken. The nut was loose but now I wonder if the failed bearing made it loose or the loose nut caused the bearing to fail. Called few salvage yards around and got the whole knuckle assembly for $ 100 in Newark. Since they did not want to waste too much time taking it apart, they just gave me the whole thing with the brakes, caliper and the CV axle. The swap took maybe an hour, I bought new axle nut from Ford and installed it, and also used the old one on top of the new one as a locking nut, there is enough CV sticking out. I did the same thing on the other side as a precaution.
My advice, whenever you do any axle work, especially in the rear, get a new nut, or use thread locker.

Failed bearing

"New" assembly

 

[fordbluefamily]

It doesn't take much to press the hub into the inner race and cause it to not sit right. It's the reason I bought a press to do rear bearings myself. I am sure you know but, It is crucial that you support the inner race fully when pressing. There is also a certain depth the hub gets pressed to and it can be hard to judge. If you don't quite get it pressed in far enough the hub nut can get loose when the hub works its way in and cause it to get worse. Those are my theories. I had several shops do them for me over the years and the only ones that lasted were done at a dealership, and so far the ones I did 3k mes ago. I also agree with double nutting provided your axle threads aren't rusted away. Glad you got it back on the road.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Yep, those are exactly my thoughts. The depth how far the hub should go in is very tricky. If it's not pressed far enough, it will loosen up overtime. But I have noticed on one of them when it was not pressed far, the axle and nut did the final 1/2 inch.
But you are right on every point you made, and I trust less and less the shops around here. I guess you used to do what I still do now: take a knuckle to a shop and have them press the new bearing, but last time I realized that not every mechanic can do that. The guy did not support the inner race and just pressed the hub in damaging the bearing and the wheels studs somehow. I was royally pissed.

 

[fordbluefamily]

Heck I did it myself when I thought I had the race supported good enough. Only to find it popped off when I flipped it over. I now make sure I have two bearings on hand to fix one knuckle as they can go wrong even when doing everything right. I did used to use machine shops and the dealership, but the satisfaction of doing one myself is amazing. I plan to pull the knuckles off my parts Mounty, blast and powdercoat them and press new bearings in for spares. Then I will have a set of swappable hubs with my 04. That's how long I want to keep this vehicle going. Lol.

 

[Explorer_PL]

What press did you get - 12 or 20 T ?

It's great to have a parts car I need to do some clean up in my garage; I have my old 4.6 engine that is actually still good, my original BW4412 transfer case, spare left and right knuckles with the hubs and bad bearings that I need to fix so I have them ready when the time comes, with complete brakes and calipers, one rear CV shaft, complete timing sets (phasers, chains, tensioners, ...), some brake rotors, old coils, .... and the list go on
I also plan to keep this thing going forever, parts are cheap, I know most of the issues in it by now, and I would not like a $ 400 monthly payment on something used or new.

 

[fordbluefamily]

I went to HF for the 12 ton but thankfully they were out of them because it takes all of the 20 ton press plus a few good whacks with a mini sledge while under pressure to pop these bearings loose. After that first pop, they press right out. I did get a discount on the 20 ton because they were out but showing stock. I have used it on press in front bearings on an SVT focus as well and they went in and out buttery smooth.

 

[Explorer_PL]

OK, thanks, I am glad I asked.

Someone told me 12T was enough.

For another $ 50 it's worth it.

I am thinking of buying some cheap hub/bearing sets on eBay ( I see a set of 2 bearings and 2 hubs for $ 55) just for practice, I would never ride on them

Thanks again Blue

 

[fordbluefamily]

Perhaps a higher quality 12 ton would suffice, but when it comes to HF stuff overbuying isnt a bad idea. I would use the cheapo bearings you press in as long as you are very conscious of them and get them out at the first sign of noise or play. Only costs your labor at that point.

 

[Explorer_PL]

...so that was not the end of the story. After installing that knuckle/bearing from the salvage yard, I would hear a slight humming and noise. Also, when I picked it up and rotated the hub in my hands, it was not so smooth as I would expect.

Off to a parts store; picked up Timken 516008, and I gave a shop my old busted knuckle. Another $ 50 for the labor (I know, I should have bought the press by now).

With the bearing and hub pressed in (they did a nice job with their 55 ton press ), it took me just an hour to swap the knuckles; 3 x 24 mm bolts, 3 x 21mm bolts and the brakes.