Trans/T-Case/Driveline or What? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Trans/T-Case/Driveline or What?

V8-X

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 6, 2002
Messages
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City, State
Edgewater, CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
02 F-150 S.C. Lariat FX4
1999-X-5.0/302-AWD-4R70W

No CEL, No flashing O/D light, No ABS light and No codes stored in ECU.

I am having a general lack of power on acceleration at all speeds, which becomes more noticable and creates a vibration/noise through the floorboard & gas pedal.

When between 30-45mph with OD off and 40-55mph OD on, is when the vibrations start to occur. This is also right after the 3rd gear change or when the TC locks up. Once this gear change/TC lock up occurs, the exhaust or driveline gets a deep hum tone to it. If I coast, the deep tone goes away. Every time I give it gas within the above scenerio the deep tone comes back and stays until I let off the gas. When the RPMs are around 1500 during the above scenerio, I get a slight grinding or moaning sound from the driveline. It sounds sort of like a Manual Trans trying to pick up speed in 3rd gear when it should be in 2nd gear.

When ever you let off the gas (to coast or stop), it feels and sounds like an excesive engine brake. You get a little tug backwards, and the X starts to slow down really quick. Not like a normal Auto Trans, which will coast you to a stop. It feels as though something is pulling you in the other direction to slow you down. Also when coasting next to a wall, I here a slight grinding sound (like metal to metal contact) coming from underneath the X. The driveline was checked, and the shop stated the only problem they noticed was a little slack in the T-Case. What would slack in the T-Case mean, and how would this effect the X?

Trans, T-Case, & front Diff fluid have been changed. EGR, TPS, FPR, IAC, all O2's, Fuel Filter, all Plugs & Wires, and both Ing. Coils replaced. MAS/MAF (however you refer to it), has been cleaned twice. None of the above suggestions have corrected this problem.

It does seem that the problem gets worse the longer the X is running. Seems to be heat related, but not completely. As the problem is there on cold starts, but just gets worse as it warms up.

Now when the problem is at it's worst, I get a lot of noise from the Fuel Injectors firing and the Intake sounds like its swallowing a ton of air. I can give the X 1/2 throttle and the Injectors and Intake start pumping like crazy, but the transfer of power to the wheels isn't there. When I accelerate the Injectors, Intake and engine seem like their increasing speed, but it takes 2-5 seconds for the X to realize I've given it more gas and then starts to pick up speed. Now when it does start to pick up speed, the X seems to labor and the pick up in speed is very minimal.

Hopefully someone or everyone can give me some advice on what to check, and maybe how. I have a Haynes book for the X, so hopefully I can find procedures for what you suggest. The problem is almost a year old (started July 2002), and I haven't found a shop that can find the problem, as you can tell by the parts I have replaced. (2 Ford Service Centers, 1 Transmission shop, 1 supposed Ford Specialist and 3 Independent shops) Any and all suggestions are welcome, I just want to have the 302 power back that I originally purchased the X for , and to fix the Vibration problem. I don't know if the lack of power and vibration are related problems, but they both came about at the same time. All started when the #4 plug went bad, tripped the CEL, Ford checked & replaced, CEL has never come back on since then.

Thanks everyone!
 



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Here are a few more items I think I might include as well.

Every once in a while when coming to stop, I will get a high idle. Normally the idle is at about 600-700 RPMs, but when this happens it idles at about 900-1000 RPMs. When it idles high, you can feel the idle vibration through the gas pedal, and very slightly through the floorboard.

Also, sometimes I will get a knock or bang from the front end when I press the accelerator, and also when I let off the accelerator. It's like something is engaging and disengaging making this knock/bang, but usually only shows up when the X is hot.

When I put the X in reverse, it kind of pops in and you can feel a little resistence when moving from Park to Reverse. When switching the trans into 1st, 2nd & Drive I have a slight knock, but Reverse makes a lot more noticable knock when engaging.

Can all these problems be related, or do you think it's multiple problems?

I really like my X, but it's wearing on me since I haven't been able to or anyone else has been able to find the problem. Thanks again!
 






It does sound a bit like a bearing seizing and getting hot. The engine is working overtime, by the sound of it, trying to overcome the resistance. The question is which one. I would start with the wheel bearings. If one is worn this would also cause the vibration. If the vibration is coming through the steering wheel I would start looking at the front first. If you've got a lot of miles on the clock then it might be worth changing them any way, but check for wear first as they are $$$$ being sealed units these days. After that I would think that the transfer case clutch may be putting too much power to the front. I'm not familiar with the awd system so perhaps someone else would like to chip in here. Just my 2c worth. Hope it helps some.
 






the X has just passed 65K mi.

Wheel Bearings, now would these be part of the Hub Assembly?

I don't really get a vibration through the steering wheel, just the gas pedal & floorboard. I have gotten a little vibration through the steering wheel every once in a while. Not to noticable, but when it does happen it feels as though something slightly restricting the steering (like the power steering pump not working properly). Now this is not nearly as common as the other problems. I may get the very slight vib through the steering wheel about once every week or two.

I have thought about replacing the front Hub Assemblies, but was unsure if this problem could be related. I didn't want to drop in the $350-$400 for Hubs if these weren't needed. Being an AWD, they are most likely due to be changed sometime soon anyways, so I might just put them on my list of parts to check.

Thanks for the advice Howard, I'll check into this. Any other thoughts or suggestions in the mean time would be helpful while I have the Bearings & Hubs checked.
 






You can still test them. Even a simple test like jack up when cold and see how free they spin. Now go for a drive then try again and see if they have tightened up.
 






So I take it that the Wheel Bearings are within the Hub Assembly, and testing the Hubs will help determine if the bearings are seizing up?

Or are bearings and hub seperate and this spin test will tell the results of one or the other?

Just want to make sure I have all this correct. I'll try this spin test today or this weekend to determine if this may be the issue.

Thanks again Howard! Hopefully this will help determine if the Hubs/Bearings are the culprit.
 






You assume correctly. The bearings are within the hub assembly. You should also hold the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and see if you can rock it, by pushing with one hand and pulling with the other. There should be a very small amount of play but no more than about 1-2 mm. You can also try an even simpler test and just put your hand on the hub after a run to see what the temperature is like. If one is much hotter than the others then you have found it.
 






Howard, So I should try a spin test when cold & hot to check the difference in resistance? Also I should try a push/pull test at 6 & 12 o'clock to check for play/movement, which should be no more than say 3mm?

Sorry to ask so many questions, just want to make sure I complete these tests correctly. Thanks again!
 






Spot on. Of course we might be completely wrong but no harm done or $$$ spent so worth a try.

Edit I've just read it again and wonder if the e brake is sticking. If so the heat test, see above, should highlight this.
 






Thought I just had now that you mention the E-Brake.

When I release the E-Brake and shift the trans. into reverse the X will go no where. Like the E-Brake is still applied. Now to be able to reverse, I have to put it in drive, roll forward say 6 inches to a foot, then I can put it back in reverse and away I go. I only have this problem if I apply the E-Brake. If I never apply the E-Brake, I can always go in reverse. Only if I have just engaged/disengaged the E-Brake will it not allow me to go in reverse. I can get the Transmission in reverse, but when I apply the gas, I go nowhere like the E-Brake is still applied.

I know I repeated myself, but I just want to make sure you understand my scenerio.

Do you think this may be my problem? If so, why would it allow me to go forward, but not backwards after the E-Brake was engaged/disengaged?

Thanks again for you time and excellent advice Howard!
 






I think we are narrowing down the problem. The e brake has two shoes inside a drum that is part of the rear disk. They are prone to separating and the lining coming away from the shoe, or disintegrating altogether. The pieces settle to the bottom and jam against the front shoe. When going in reverse and drag against the rear shoe when going forward.

Forget the tests get the e brake sorted first because.
1. You should have a working brake and
2. you may now need new rear discs due to damage and
3. this could very well be your whole problem.

As the man said "I have a dream"

An explanation:

If there are bits of lining floating about in the rear drums this will make turning the rear wheels more difficult and hence the engine struggling to move you forward. The more you drive the hotter everything gets and the discs expand. Making the drum slightly bigger in diameter. Now there is a small gap more dust falls in. When you take your foot off the gas the brakes take over and you come to a stop. When the whole thing cools down the discs contract squashing the dust harder against the shoes. Next time you go to move it is like having the e brake on and the cycle repeats until there is nothing left.

I'll have a bet that this has been your problem all along.
 






Howard, I will get this checked out right away.

I know I have a good amount of pad left on both rear brakes, and the rotors look/feel fine.

You keep mentioning drum, but I have disc brakes in the rear, would this make a difference?

Either which way, I'll check this tomorrow. Any other suggestions you may have reagrding this, I'm all ears.

Thanks again!
 






I have the same discs in the rear. But

when you take off the disc you will find a little drum as part of the disc and a set of shoes quite small in size. This is the e brake system, which is totally separate form the foot brake discs and their pads. I don't have any pics but if you search for e-brake I think you may find a picture.

The whole rear disc has a drum inside it.

Hope this helps.
 












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