Transmission filter change now causing trouble.

[CABAL]

After following the steps and suggestions here on changing the transmission filter and fluid on my 2002 Sport Trac (about 170K miles on it), it started having major trouble while driving around test driving it. It would drive normally, but then seem to stall as if it was on Neutral. Stepping on the gas had no effect on the speed at all. I would turn off the ignition and then right back on again and it would now be fine. It would drive normally, but would stall again after coming to a complete stop (stop sign, etc.). My mechanic told me that simply by changing the fluid was the cause of this and that I NEVER should have done this in the first place. He says the transmission is probably messed up and recommends having it replaced. I removed everything again to inspect if I had accidentally moved or disconnected something, but everything seems fine (pics below). I originally put 4 quarts of Mercon V transmission fluid, but after being told that the fluid change was the cause, I'm wondering if I should refill it this time with the old fluid (was added about 2-3 years ago by a mechanic) or with new fluid? Adding new fluid seems like a bad idea, since I did just that and the truck started acting up. I've already put ecerything back on, I just need to know what fluid to put back in???

 

[fritz24]

Add the new atf. Torque the bolts of the pan in 12 foot pounds and in sequence. Pump 4 to 5 liters without removing the hose on the fill plug. Start the car, let it idle until operating temp then pump another half liter (do not switch off the engine) try pulling the hose and see if fluid drips off the fill plug. If none pump another and see if it drips out. If fluid is dripping out wait till you see air bubbles. Then quickly replace the fill plug and your done.

 

[sr139fox]

I have 155k miles on my Sport Trac. I am a firm beleiver in a transmission fluid flush. But i have seen several post of problems after their flush. Is this only with a Sport Trac or Ford problem. I have done many vehicles in the past and always had good results. Dave p.

 

[fritz24]

Dont do trans flush unless you're willing to change valve body seal. Those tiny metal debris mind end up blocking some internal parts of your valve body or even the solenoid switch. Just fill your trans in a correct fluid level and you're good to go. I had 180k miles on my ex without any issue, just did fluid and filter change every 50k.
and not ford problem. It's how the owner maintain his car. I believe your sport trac is a ford too...

 

[sickwilly]

Not a ford problem. I have bought more than a few high mileage cars. I ease the car into new fluid, 3-4 quarts each oil change until the fluid looks really new. Only then do I so a filter.

Hopefully it is a matter of your not having the right about of fluid in the tranny, because I don't get why turning the truck off and then on has any effect unless it has something to do with the fluid level and the torque converter.

When running it and it does this, before turning it off, what is the fluid level on the tranny dipstick?

 

[Kjhadfield]

Not a ford problem. I have bought more than a few high mileage cars. I ease the car into new fluid, 3-4 quarts each oil change until the fluid looks really new. Only then do I so a filter.

Hopefully it is a matter of your not having the right about of fluid in the tranny, because I don't get why turning the truck off and then on has any effect unless it has something to do with the fluid level and the torque converter.

When running it and it does this, before turning it off, what is the fluid level on the tranny dipstick?

That's interesting- how do you extract 3-4 qt at a time. Same to drop pan and refresh? I'm at 166k and it may or may not of had a pan drop/filter done at 100k (I just can't remember).

 

[CABAL]

The reason I replaced the ATF and filter in the first place was because it was leaking fluid from the rear of the ATF pan and I assumed the gasket must be worn out. I figured that since I was already going to drop the pan and replace the gasket, I might as well change the filter/fluid. Anyway, I put the old oil back in and poured in a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix to get the fluid to the appropriate level. I switched from gear to gear for a few minutes at a time (while parked) to let the fluid flow into the gears and after about 30 minutes of having the truck idling on "Park", I took it out for a test drive. It was doing the exact same thing as before. It would drive normally at about 25-30mph, but if I tried going faster, it would stall as if it would go into neutral. I would immediately stop and turn off the ignition and back on again and it would be fine again. I even got it up to 50mph at some point, but since I was doing the test driving in my neighborhood, that's as fast as I dared to drive. This was done in the part of my neighborhood where there are no houses built yet, so I have about 3 blocks of "free road". When I got to the dead end part of the road and had to go a bit in reverse, it wouldn't go and would just act exactly how it would if you step on the gas pedal when it's on "neutral". Again, turning the ignition off and on immediately let me go in reverse. I did notice that the second (2) gear seemed to work most of the time, but still seemed sluggish at higher speeds. I'm going to keep driving it around the neighborhood for a couple of days to see if the Lucas works itself through the transmission a bit better, but at this point it seems as if the transmission is on its last leg. All I can do at this point is keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best. Replacing the transmission (much less the truck!) is NOT a possibility for me at this point. Man, talk about when it rains it pours.

 

[sr139fox]

Are there any codes, can the computer be reprogrammed? Dave P.

 

[sickwilly]

How is your fluid level when driving immediately after it does the symptom, without shutting off the engine?

You sure it was leaking at the back of the pan and not the rear seal?

I use a fluid extractor to suck out tranny fluid from the tranny distick tube. I got my Sport Track with somewhere around 25K on it. I did this several times, and then around 45K I dropped the pan and replace the filter. For the last 90K miles, every other oil change or so I also replace a couple of quarts of tranny fluid. I will likely do the filter again this summer, when I hit 130K.

 

[CABAL]

Are there any codes, can the computer be reprogrammed? Dave P.

The check engine light is not lighting up, but I haven't checked for codes. I topped off the fluid after having it idling for about 30 minutes, but I'll check the level again this afternoon when I take it out for another test drive. I'll be sure to check it as soon as it stalls without turning off the ignition. Like I said, I'm doing this on a very rarely used section of the road, so I should be able to get out of the truck and check it as soon as it stalls. As per the original leak, the gasket that was on there was completely bent in one of the corners and seemed to be where the leak was coming from. It was still good, but I replaced it with a new, rubber one, anyway. It sucks that I just drove the truck about 190 miles, each direction, to San Antonio this past Saturday to visit a very sick relative, with no problems at all and now I can't even drive it out of my neighborhood.

 

[CABAL]

I just came back from test driving it. It was handling a lot better than yesterday. It would immediately stall after reaching 20mph, but I would switch to 2nd gear and right back to "Drive" and it would run fine. I did this a couple of times and it worked without having to turn off the ignition. I did notice that everytime it would stall, the "O/D OFF" light would flash rapidly and stay flashing until the ignition was turned off. It would stay off and then start flashing again only when the truck would stall. The level of the fluid stayed the same level when it was idling than when it would stall (in the crosshatched area) and again I managed to go up to 50mph. Overall, I did notice some slight improvement, so it JUST might take several miles of driving to let the Lucas work itself through the transmission.

 

[aquabid]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283097

 

[CABAL]

It seems like the easiest thing to try first, on that link is "cleaning the ground wire". But it is unclear what ground wire (the blower motor relay???) and its' exact location.

 

[david4451]

The long journey may have burst the hose in the fuel tank dumping fuel into tank, there is enough pressure to run a bit but not to run normally. Can't see it being the transmission stalling the engine without some odd noises.
What you are describing is the exact same symptoms I had, because of hose split inside the fuel tank.
Check it out good luck.