Trying to remove the HUB bolts. Can I push the axle in?

[springwater]

Man, what an unbelievable pain in the A$$.

As difficult as the bolts are to turn, it wouldnt be so bad if I had just a little more space.

Ive got 2 bolts out but I can no longer turn the top bolt. I have it out to the point where there is no more clearance between the bolt and the iron dome looking boot thingy.

In one of the videos, the mechanic simply pushes the axle in once he removed the axle nut. I cant move the axle for nothing.

I even tried to "tap" on it with a rubber mallet.

If I could get the axle to move in and that iron dome to move back even half an inch, that would be enough room.

Should the axle slide in? Can I apply force?

 

[extra-medium]

I haven't been into those parts in a while so i forget what everything looks like, but from what you are describing you would have to take the cap off to get to the axle bolt to get the axle out, once you get the cap off you would probably have the room you need to loosen the bolts for the hub.

 

[springwater]

I haven't been into those parts in a while so i forget what everything looks like, but from what you are describing you would have to take the cap off to get to the axle bolt to get the axle out, once you get the cap off you would probably have the room you need to loosen the bolts for the hub.

In this video, Makuloco puts the axle nut back on the axle and beats on it, pushing it in to create space. Of-course he does it after he loosened it with his air gun but he was advising what to do if you dont have an air gun, which I dont.

It comes at 5:25

So I guess its safe to do?

 

[Number4]

The axle has slip room within its joint. Allows the wheel to go up and down without pulling the axle out.

You can beat on it, or buy rent and axle puller. I believe O'Reilly's and AutoZone rent them.
The puller is the preferred method and the rentals are usually free once you return the part.

 

[springwater]

The axle has slip room within its joint. Allows the wheel to go up and down without pulling the axle out.

You can beat on it, or buy rent and axle puller. I believe O'Reilly's and AutoZone rent them.
The puller is the preferred method and the rentals are usually free once you return the part.

Do you think it will still work with 2 of the hub bolts already out?

 

[Number4]

It utilizes three bolts. On the side with three holes, it uses the outer two. Then obviously, the single bolt hole side. So as long as you have three studs in that orientation.

You can try tapping with a 5lbs hammer, see how easily it moves. All your trying to do, is break the bond that rust has formed, otherwise it should slide right out.

 

[springwater]

It utilizes three bolts. On the side with three holes, it uses the outer two. Then obviously, the single bolt hole side. So as long as you have three studs in that orientation.

You can try tapping with a 5lbs hammer, see how easily it moves. All your trying to do, is break the bond that rust has formed, otherwise it should slide right out.

My rubber mallet is only 1 and a 1/2 pounds but Ive been banging away on the axle without much progress. I hooked up the puller but when I start to torque it, the entire hub starts to turn. If I put the wheel back on so the hub doesnt spin, theres no where to hook the puller. I guess I'll go back to banging on the axle in the hopes that it goes in just slightly.

 

[Number4]

Have to use a metal hammer, not a rubber one. You can bang on it with the metal 'mini sledge' the. Use the puller.
http://m.harborfreight.com/4-lb-drilling-hammer-98258.html

Make sure the pullers threads are coated in anti seize.

If you're spinning the hub, then lodge a crowbar between the studs and the the ground.

 

[springwater]

Have to use a metal hammer, not a rubber one. You can bang on it with the metal 'mini sledge' the. Use the puller.
http://m.harborfreight.com/4-lb-drilling-hammer-98258.html

Make sure the pullers threads are coated in anti seize.

If you're spinning the hub, then lodge a crowbar between the studs and the the ground.

It worked, thank you.

Now I just need to get the hub off, I'll start banging on that ****, wish me luck.

The shield is in the way but the bolts look permanent so I guess that isnt coming off.

 

[Number4]

The hub is RTV'd on, so it can be fun. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery cable before you pound too much. Don't want any airbag issues.

Beat it from the front side only. From different directions around it.

 

[springwater]

The hub is RTV'd on, so it can be fun. Make sure you disconnect the negative battery cable before you pound too much. Don't want any airbag issues.

Beat it from the front side only. From different directions around it.

Really? Damn, I been beating it from the back towards the front.

But if I beat it from the front, wont I be beating the hub onto the knuckle?

 

[apenland01]

If you have the hub bolts out and the axle shaft moves, then you just need to tap a thin scraper between the hub and knuckle all the way around to break the sealer they have on there. It should be free then.

 

[springwater]

If you have the hub bolts out and the axle shaft moves, then you just need to tap a thin scraper between the hub and knuckle all the way around to break the sealer they have on there. It should be free then.

Yah, I think I can see it separating and was thinking what I can shove in there thats going to be thin and strong enough...

I'll also go rent a slide hammer if I cant get it off tonight...

 

[apenland01]

I just used a thin metal drywall scraper I had in my toolbox. it worked perfectly and I just worked it around, tapping it, prying it a bit and took about 5 minutes per side.

 

[springwater]

FINALLY got it off! Question, did you guys use blue lock tite or some other thread "locking" compound when you replaced the bolts? I have antisieze but nothing to lock down the bolts...

And how does one know that the axle has been "pulled out" enough to its correct or former position?

I counted the visible threads on the end of the axle after replacing the axle nut and there are only 8 threads showing as opposed to the opposite side showing 9.

It also looks like there are threads visible where the iron axle cone meets the rear of the hub.

Maybe that would explain why my car shudders now when I turn the wheel to the left?

 

[Number4]

The axle should be pulled into the hub while you torque it down. 185 ft lbs or something? Never counted threads.

New bolts come with some kind of coating, it's not the standard color but I'd use blue loctite if reusing them. Blue loctite now comes in a thicker form, with a deodorant dial like mechanism to use it. Much nicer than the liquid version.

Blue loctite is your friend. I use it on most bolts. Go ahead and invest in some.

 

[springwater]

The axle should be pulled into the hub while you torque it down. 185 ft lbs or something? Never counted threads.

New bolts come with some kind of coating, it's not the standard color but I'd use blue loctite if reusing them. Blue loctite now comes in a thicker form, with a deodorant dial like mechanism to use it. Much nicer than the liquid version.

Blue loctite is your friend. I use it on most bolts. Go ahead and invest in some.

Awww man, I used the new bolts but as far as I can tell, they werent coated with loctite.

Am I "screwed" (see what I did there)?

 

[Number4]

I'd say it's more of a safety feature than a requirement. Check the bolts every so often to see if they've backed out. I highly doubt they will, but you really don't want the hub getting the slightest but loose.

 

[springwater]

Well, the engine area still sounds like a plane. Guess I'll change the right hub now and see what happens. :roll:

 

[springwater]

I'd say it's more of a safety feature than a requirement. Check the bolts every so often to see if they've backed out. I highly doubt they will, but you really don't want the hub getting the slightest but loose.

Just got done the right side and the loud hum finally stopped. I was sure it was the driver's side but anyway.

I used loctite on the right side, not on the left. Regardless, I think I over-torqued all the bolts and the axle nuts.