MotoDan
Member
- Joined
- December 7, 2008
- Messages
- 28
- Reaction score
- 5
- City, State
- Chesterfield, Missouri
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '02 XLT
Hello all,
Just wanted to share my recent experience regarding the repair of my '02 Explorer's stereo volume control. For some time now, the volume control has been kind of twitchy. Sometimes it would take several attempts to either raise or lower the volume. Since these stereos have an endless type of control (unlike a rotation-limited pot of yesteryear), I suspected that a "rotary encoder" was in place and in need of repair. These encoders are basically rotary switches which have two sets of contacts that open and close several times (usually 16-24 or so) for each revolution. The contacts are separated just slightly so that they open and close slightly one before the other. This is how the stereo's controller knows if the control is being turned clockwise or counter-clockwise.
I decided to remove the stereo and see if I could get to the encoder. Removing the stereo is fairly straightforward and I'm sure covered elsewhere on the web. Basically you just pop off the plastic bezel around the stereo and remove two screws holding the unit into the panel and disconnect the cables from the rear. Once removed, it was very easy to separate the faceplate which contains a PC board that holds all of the buttons, volume encoder, and display. You'll need T9 torx driver for this.
Next I had to decide if I was going to try and replace or attempt to repair the encoder. I looked around the web, but never really found the exact encoder I needed. I'm sure they're out there, but because of the rather small 3/16" shaft diameter, they are not nearly as popular as the 6mm and 1/4" shaft units. So I decided to remove the encoder with the intention of carefully dis-assembling it to see if it could be repaired.
You'll need a small soldering iron and some solder-wick or desoldering tool in order to remove the switch from the PC board. Be careful not to overheat the pins during removal or damage to the PC board could result.
It turns out that the encoder is held together with four small crimped tabs. Carefully bend these tabs up so that the switch can be disassembled. Once you have the upper and lower portions separated, you will see how this device works. Be very gentle with the next steps of you could damage the internal workings of the switch. Next, take a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol and gently wipe the round perforated disc. This should remove any contaminates which were keeping the two sets of tiny fingers from making reliable contact. This encoder also has a momentary push button set of contacts which are used to turn the stereo on and off.
Before reassembling the switch, I chose to put a very small amount of silicone grease (intended for electrical contacts, etc) on the round disc for lubrication. You could also use Vaseline for this.
Next, carefully put the switch back together and then crimp over the four tabs. You can check the switch with an ohm meter to make sure the contacts are working properly before putting it back onto the PC board. The center contact is common and the outer contacts are for the switches. You should see a "make and break" (open and close) action between the center and outer pins as you rotate the shaft. You'll have to turn the shaft very slowly in order to see this as the contact spacing on the round disc is very small.
Next, insert and re-solder the switch onto the PC board, then snap the front panel onto the stereo and secure with the four Torx screws. Then install the stereo back into the vehicle. At this point, I would recommend that you test the volume control before snapping the plastic bezel back on just in case there's an issue with the switch. If all went well, you should have a smooth acting volume control again. Finish up by snapping on the plastic bezel.
Good luck and Happy Holidays!
Motodan
Just wanted to share my recent experience regarding the repair of my '02 Explorer's stereo volume control. For some time now, the volume control has been kind of twitchy. Sometimes it would take several attempts to either raise or lower the volume. Since these stereos have an endless type of control (unlike a rotation-limited pot of yesteryear), I suspected that a "rotary encoder" was in place and in need of repair. These encoders are basically rotary switches which have two sets of contacts that open and close several times (usually 16-24 or so) for each revolution. The contacts are separated just slightly so that they open and close slightly one before the other. This is how the stereo's controller knows if the control is being turned clockwise or counter-clockwise.
I decided to remove the stereo and see if I could get to the encoder. Removing the stereo is fairly straightforward and I'm sure covered elsewhere on the web. Basically you just pop off the plastic bezel around the stereo and remove two screws holding the unit into the panel and disconnect the cables from the rear. Once removed, it was very easy to separate the faceplate which contains a PC board that holds all of the buttons, volume encoder, and display. You'll need T9 torx driver for this.
Next I had to decide if I was going to try and replace or attempt to repair the encoder. I looked around the web, but never really found the exact encoder I needed. I'm sure they're out there, but because of the rather small 3/16" shaft diameter, they are not nearly as popular as the 6mm and 1/4" shaft units. So I decided to remove the encoder with the intention of carefully dis-assembling it to see if it could be repaired.
You'll need a small soldering iron and some solder-wick or desoldering tool in order to remove the switch from the PC board. Be careful not to overheat the pins during removal or damage to the PC board could result.
It turns out that the encoder is held together with four small crimped tabs. Carefully bend these tabs up so that the switch can be disassembled. Once you have the upper and lower portions separated, you will see how this device works. Be very gentle with the next steps of you could damage the internal workings of the switch. Next, take a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol and gently wipe the round perforated disc. This should remove any contaminates which were keeping the two sets of tiny fingers from making reliable contact. This encoder also has a momentary push button set of contacts which are used to turn the stereo on and off.
Before reassembling the switch, I chose to put a very small amount of silicone grease (intended for electrical contacts, etc) on the round disc for lubrication. You could also use Vaseline for this.
Next, carefully put the switch back together and then crimp over the four tabs. You can check the switch with an ohm meter to make sure the contacts are working properly before putting it back onto the PC board. The center contact is common and the outer contacts are for the switches. You should see a "make and break" (open and close) action between the center and outer pins as you rotate the shaft. You'll have to turn the shaft very slowly in order to see this as the contact spacing on the round disc is very small.
Next, insert and re-solder the switch onto the PC board, then snap the front panel onto the stereo and secure with the four Torx screws. Then install the stereo back into the vehicle. At this point, I would recommend that you test the volume control before snapping the plastic bezel back on just in case there's an issue with the switch. If all went well, you should have a smooth acting volume control again. Finish up by snapping on the plastic bezel.
Good luck and Happy Holidays!
Motodan
