Vibration that just won't go away (lengthy post)

[Lil98Sport4X4]

Hi all...

I'm posting this problem for future reference to any other ST owners out there who have had a similar issue. For my current setup just click on 'Black Betty' below.

A few weeks ago, I noticed a nasty vibration coming from underneath my truck. I took it into the local Midas shop for an oil change, tire rotation, balance, and alignment, and asked them to take a look around. They found numerous leaks (front and back), a torn boot (can't remember if front or bad) and a bad set of ball joints (no surprise). They didn't want to touch the leaks due to their own limitations, so they recommended another local garage, which I also trust ( I have had a couple previous experiences with them and friends have recommended their work).

Once at the second shop, they found that the rear drive shaft carrier bearing was in very bad shape, so they came back with a $1k parts/labor bill to replace that $800 for the shaft + $200 for the labor). I gave them the green light, and they replaced it. They also said that both front axles had some play and recommended that they also be replaced along with the control arms/ball joints. They said this would also take care of the the leaks that Midas had found in the previous evaluation. I gave them the ok to replace the axles and upper control arms/ball joints ...another $1600! After those repairs, they asked that I come in for a test drive just to see how it felt. Once I arrived, the owner showed me all my old parts and reviewed why they needed to be replaced. I'm surprised the carrier bearing lasted as long as it did, because it was just barely hanging on the shaft. The old front axles did have some play in them, so I acknowledged the explanation and took Betty for a drive down the interstate and back. To my surprise, the vibration was still present with absolutely no change whatsoever! I handed the shop owner the keys and told him that they did nothing to fix the vibration. His face just dropped.

So back to the drawing board.

Does anyone have the slightest clue as to what might be causing this vibration? This isn't just an annoying vibration, it feels bad enough to make me believe it's a serious problem.

Vibration characteristics:
1) It's definitely under the truck (can't tell if it's front or back ...seems to be in the middle).
2) Can't feel vibration in steering wheel or pedals.
3) Starts when accelerating and remains until stopped/parked.

What's been fixed/replaced/tried so far:
1) rear drive shaft
2) front axles
3) left/right control arms/ball joints
4) spin balanced all wheels
5) 4 wheel alignment

Other notes
1) They moved the front wheels to the back and back to front with no change.

Currently in process:
1) replacing noisy rear wheel bearing
2) replacing rear axle (they found it's leaking and has some play)

I'm into this nightmare for over $2700 going on $3k with very little hope of any resolution. I just want my truck back without any further hits to my savings!

Sorry for the lengthy post. I'm at my wits end!

 

[Tech By Trade]

15 bucks for a new front U joint I bet.

 

[Lil98Sport4X4]

Tech By Trade - They checked the U joints along with the motor and tranny mounts. They went over as many cheap fixes as they could. I thought it could have been a tire pressure sensor band that broke.

Got a call back from the shop this afternoon, and they claim that the last repair (replacing rear wheel bearing and rear axle) has corrected the problem. I'll decide for myself after a test drive tomorrow. If true... then they went through $2900 of fixes to get to the $700 solution. Looking on the bright side, I hope by catching the bad carrier bearing may have eliminated a much more serious problem or even an accident.

Update forthcoming... stay tuned.

 

[rmcalis]

Sounds like the repairs were needed (soon if not immediate), so if you plan to keep the truck it was probably a good investment. Other than no one likes to spend $3k, I'd not feel too bad about it.

 

[Lil98Sport4X4]

rmcalis - Agree 100%. Everything they fixed needed to be fixed ...especially the rear drive shaft and rear axle.

UPDATE... So after examining the left rear axle the determined that there was a bad wheel bearing (which they knew wasn't the cause of the vibration), but when they pulled the axle, they noticed a broken protrusion on the inside end. Something had shattered inside and had almost poked a hole through the inner CV housing. Once they replaced it with a re-man'd axle and took it for a spin, they realized it was the rear axle the whole time. The reason they didn't find it sooner, was because the protrusion was concealed by the differential collar.

So, once they went over all the repairs and all the old components, I paid the bill. Then they told me about my radiator leak (ugh, really!?) The shop owner felt so bad about the delay and expense, he didn't want to tell me about replacing the radiator, but warned me to keep a close eye on it. I asked him to price out the repair. So that'll be another $700+ bill in the near future. Unfortunately, my Ford warranty ran out about 15k miles ago, so that's not an option for me.

Overall, I have to look at this whole ordeal in a good way, because it may have saved me an even bigger repair bill down the road. I guess I'll be holding on to the truck a little longer than I expected.

 

[Bobmbx]

rmcalis - Agree 100%. Everything they fixed needed to be fixed ...especially the rear drive shaft and rear axle.

UPDATE... So after examining the left rear axle the determined that there was a bad wheel bearing (which they knew wasn't the cause of the vibration), but when they pulled the axle, they noticed a broken protrusion on the inside end. Something had shattered inside and had almost poked a hole through the inner CV housing. Once they replaced it with a re-man'd axle and took it for a spin, they realized it was the rear axle the whole time. The reason they didn't find it sooner, was because the protrusion was concealed by the differential collar.

So, once they went over all the repairs and all the old components, I paid the bill. Then they told me about my radiator leak (ugh, really!?) The shop owner felt so bad about the delay and expense, he didn't want to tell me about replacing the radiator, but warned me to keep a close eye on it. I asked him to price out the repair. So that'll be another $700+ bill in the near future. Unfortunately, my Ford warranty ran out about 15k miles ago, so that's not an option for me.

Overall, I have to look at this whole ordeal in a good way, because it may have saved me an even bigger repair bill down the road. I guess I'll be holding on to the truck a little longer than I expected.

Radiators aren't that hard to replace. You can do it yourself.

 

[Tech By Trade]

When you buy one of these trucks make sure you purchase a full set of tools and a service manual to go along with it. on a side note you could have gotten that drive shaft and installed it yourself for about 500 bucks. The rad should cost you about 120 if you go aftermarket.

 

[Lil98Sport4X4]

Bobmbx - Yeah, I've already watched a forum member's YouTube vid on how to do it (thanks to makuloco2000 for this post on a radiator replacement), and I agree. I just don't have the time or space to do the repair.

I think I'll at least look into purchasing a Spectra rad as he recommends. They're only ~ $151 shipped, so that alone should save me some expense.

Tech By Trade - I purchased a full set of manuals for the truck immediately after purchasing it. I'm more electronic savvy than anything. Major mechanical repairs are out of my wheelhouse, and as I stated before, I don't have the time or space to do that kind of work. It's unfortunate, because my dad taught me all the ins and outs on older vehicles for basic repairs and maintenance (changing the oil or replacing a gas filter or alternator), but life circumstances prevent me from putting most of that knowledge to good use.

 

[Tech By Trade]

If you do get the spectra keep an eye on the transmission cooler fittings. Odds are the o-rings will start seeping transmission fluid. Keep your old ford rad if you can, you may need to swap the cooler fittings.

 

[Lil98Sport4X4]

Will do. Thanks for the advice.

Are there any other cost efficient rad brands that have good fitment and reliability? I only saw the Spectra brand on makuloco2000's vid today and have no experience with the brand.

 

[Lil98Sport4X4]

UPDATE #2 Radiator install... The mechanic who installed the rad said it was a real bear removing due to some internal front end damage that was hidden until the rad was removed. It looked as if the truck had been in a front end fender bender, because the fan shroud and rad support brace were cracked. The old rad was bent in, and there was a huge crack in the top of it, which was hidden by the overflow reservoir. The new Spectra rad went in easily without any issues. They road tested it to make sure everything were no leaks. So far, so good today, and I ordered a 16 psi rad cap to replace the factory 20 psi cap.

My ST has been a major source of stress this past month, and I hope there are no more major repairs for as long as I own her.