What do these mean, can't be good - head gasket?

[08EddieCA]

I returned from a 900 mile trip to the Valley of Fire north of Vegas last night. Engine was running fine although it looked like it was running a little hotter than normal on the 12 mile incline south of Vegas on the 15 heading home. I turned off the AC and slowed down. Today I pulled the dip stick and checked the coolant reserve tank. I found these black blobs in the coolant reserve tank. (Note: Pink coolant = Motorcraft Coolant plus Redline Water Wetter).

Engine started to develop a rhythmic gallop sound. Almost like it was missing a cylinder. It still runs fine. I think I better start saving up for a new engine. I have a feeling it's cylinder 6.

Is this fixable? Would a compression test tell me anything? I have a Harbor Freight compression test kit.

2008 Explorer Eddie Bauer, 131,000 on the odo. 4.0L V6 (A4x4) (by the way, the transmission ran great. No issues. I was expecting an issue with the trans but ended up with this mess.)

Recent mods: (new/rebuilt trans 6K ago, new water pump, new plugs, new wires, new coil, oil Castro 0w/40 synthetic (have always used this oil), new battery, and new alternator, new throttle body and wire harnesses)

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[Partsman109]

If that's oil in there, then no, can't be good.

 

[tripplec]

OW40 grades for very cold climate and some it doesn't offer the base protection when cold as a 5W30 or 40 would. Certainly not a hot weather oil. But Not good. Gaskets at minimum. You'd need an engine guy to check it out.

 

[08EddieCA]

I was just schooled by my mechanic as well regarding 0/40. 5/30 is the new oil for my ride.

We are going to perform a compression and leak down test. I'll post results when I get them. Mechanic's initial thought is that I have a cracked head but won't know more until tests are performed.

 

[tripplec]

Ok, well good luck but FYI the first number is the indication of how thick or thin the oil is when Cold (protecting the engine at that time) too thin is no good especially when driving hard or load as there is not enough between the metal. 5W is the lowest you will see listed by any manufacturer. Had it been 5W40 you'd be fine as the heavier hot oil is not a problem.

 

[nathan mayden]

Yikes there's oil in there and only two ways to get there. Accidentally adding it and a bad head gasket.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Oh Eddie, not this now .....

 

[08EddieCA]

Yup, I did NOT put oil in there, lol!!! Matter of fact, I think I had put a 1/2 quart into the oil pan in Baker, CA, during the run back home. That's when I noticed the temp gauge was about two mm hotter than normal. This was just as I was hitting the big long incline leaving Las Vegas. X had to downshift twice placing me into 3rd, if I am correct, to clear the climb. It took about 8 minutes to traverse the incline. Once I got past the incline I knew the next two mountain passes are shorter.

I received the following from www.perfectengine.com here in Los Angeles. Note I sent an email back to Perfect Engine requesting a detailed breakdown of what hard parts and what soft parts are included in this quote. I know I have the option of purchasing a used engine and I may just end up installing a good used engine. The only issue is that for ~$600 or $700 more than most of the used engines I've briefly looked at on ebay I can secure a new rebuilt long block. I've removed/installed a few Toyota 4Runner engines - the 22R - and a (I know this may not qualify as an install) few vw bugs - old school vw's. I'm confident I can get this engine out and the new one in.

Lastly, there's the question of equity vs. expense to repair. This is how I look at this matter. I own the truck. The truck has a new rebuilt refreshed transmission. Suspension, drive train, front end, transmission, tires(including a new steel spare and tire due to rush issues), battery/alternator, throttle body, entire cooling system, main wire harness, SRS wiring for the passenger seat belt and pressure sensor, A/C Evap system, before my last trip a complete tune up, and finally new shifter cable have been installed. My vote is to keep it.

My biggest hurdle is breaking the news to my wife and getting the rubber stamp on the engine purchase after we just paid for the transmission rebuild (which I promised was the last major expense for the Explorer, LOL!!! I'll wear proper appropriate protection that day...
----------------------------------
Thank you for your inquiry.

The price for a reman long block is $2195.00 + tax based on good core.
We would need to rebuild your engine core, which usually takes one week.

Please note this does not include removal and installation.

Best regards,

Linda Rodriguez

Perfect Engine, Inc.
2721 S. San Pedro Street
Los Angeles, CA 90011
Tel: 323-231-5161 Toll Free: 888-716-6867
Fax: 323-231-0528
www.PerfectEngine.com

 

[08EddieCA]

Explorer_PL,

At least the transmission didn't fart out on me. That would have changed the entire equation....

 

[boominXplorer]

Is the radiator original? Are you actually loosing oil while driving?

I just had an 08 hummer in my shop that the whole radiator was filled with transmission fluid from it leaking internally. Don't jump to the gun and replace the engine without fully diagnosing your issue.

 

[08EddieCA]

In past 2,000 miles I put a half quart of oil into the engine. It hasn't ever taken more than a half quart in between oil changes.

The radiator was replaced about a year and a half ago. The original radiator developed a leak. So we swapped it out.

My coolant is currently full of small fine metal shavings that look extremely clean and bright/reflective. I think it's aluminum which should point one of the heads. I completely flushed and refilled my radiator twice about a month ago.

My last Blackstone oil report stated that my iron level had jumped up. I wonder if there's some connection to those metal shavings in my coolant. Those shavings could be iron. I'll try to find the report.

 

[tripplec]

I know and heard a lot of people getting a good engine from a lower millage wrecker donation. Odds are good you won't have a problem I guess you can strip some parts off the old one, Coils etc which are always nice to have a spares on hand.

Rebuilds - to me not so much as I pretty much needs to be a specialist machine shop to get it done right and they're not cheap getting rebuild here in Canada (cost two arms and both legs)

 

[08EddieCA]

Explorer_PL referred a website to someone in one of our forums: www.car-part.com (can't remember the exact site at the moment). That site pulled up a ton of low mile engines that looked pretty good. The lowest mile engine I found was 55k mikes for roughly $1,700. That engine is looking pretty good. This morning I'm leaning towards one of those engines. You're right. It's a great option that should be considered. Would I replace the chains and guides as a bench job on one of these engines or just take one as-is?

 

[tripplec]

At that millage its inconceivable there would be any chain guides issues. I doubt they could be damaged without intentional deliberate counter maintenance measures, EG running without oil, using gear oil or some foreign lub.

55k is nothing in my opinion

 

[Explorer_PL]

When I had my engine noise/issue misdiagnosed on my 06 by 2 shops and told I need a new engine (and I listened to them), I got a used 4.6 v8 with 55k miles from here:

http://www.swengines.com/

They wanted close to 2000, I got it down to 1600 including shipping. Almost 2 years later, still good.

But make sure it's the engine, in my case I needed a new torque converter ..........

 

[08EddieCA]

I agree! I would be disappointed to find out it's not the engine at this point. Your point is well taken. Hopefully the shop will get to my X today. As soon as they open I'm going to give them a call.

 

[Wes Notovitz]

I hope it's not your engine also. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

But if it is and you are going for a reman, you might want to consider Barnette's Engines. I replaced an engine in the wife's Jeep and ended up using Barnette after doing a LOT of research. They seem to have the best warranty around and even though it wasn't the exact cheapest, it was one of the most reasonable. They included shipping both ways (core also) and didn't require a deposit on the core. The new engine runs like it should and after several thousand miles, is smooth and powerful as it should be. I'd use them again if need ever be.

 

[08EddieCA]

Thank you!

 

[08EddieCA]

Update: While I'm figuring out resources etc., I noticed the coolant in the main radiator is starting to become a bit cloudy. I can only imagine it's motor oil is the culprit. I'm looking into the radiator thing, interesting. I'm preparing to send a sample for Blackstone to tell me what's in the coolant. Compression test to be completed on Sunday. I'll post results. Is it important to perform a wet compression test?

 

[08EddieCA]

Update: Compression was acceptable. I will get the breakdown by piston tomorrow. Drained the 0/40 oil. It was black and had a burnt odor. We sent the oil to Blackstone Labs to see if we have any coolant in the oil and get a summary of whatever they find. Mechanic said it could be the radiator. I'm not a mechanic so I don't know exactly what he's referencing. He also wants me to send a coolant sample to Blackstone to confirm tranny fluid is or isn't what's in the coolant.

We did fix two vacuum leaks and replaced the AC check valve. It broke in half for the 4th time.

Had to drive from LA to San Diego today. No issues and the motor pulled strong. No strange sounds from the tranny.

There is a burnt smell around the car after a drive. I checked the belt and tensioner - all was good. New oil is still crystal clear. No milkshake appearance. No leak from the rear main seal.