What is this???

[ETHACK]

Do not switch to 10W40 on a SOHC, even if you do it will still leak. The only way to fix it is to remove the bolt, replace the washer/seal with some RTV under it.

Yea that sounds better, will have to order the leak/seals, sounds pretty simple and thankfully both are easily accessible , and will switch to synthetic at 5k, right now oil change every 1k, except 1st at 500, would anyone know the part# or ??? Like Koda will be adding a pre oiler this fall, M1 is what I'll run as well just like other vehicles. Just stinks that leaks on rebuilt motor, but at least easy fix, will keep posted and thanks again guys!!

 

[koda2000]

I wonder if when they reassembled the motor they didn't put RTV under the washer/seals?

You might want to try removing the offending bolt and see if the washer/seal comes off easily (it shouldn't if it was RTV'd on), if it does come off you could try cleaning up the washer/seal and the mating surface on the engine cradle and reseal it with some RTV and just put the bolt back in. I use Permatex Ultra Black RTV.

This kind of thing is why I rebuilt my own engines.

 

[donalds]

10W30 isn't recommended either and will not reduce/stop your leak.

Shoot I ment 5 30 I'm not sure why I mix em up all the time
Thanks @koda2000 for the correction


I use m1 full synthetic 3-4000 miles

 

[ETHACK]

I wonder if when they reassembled the motor they didn't put RTV under the washer/seals?

You might want to try removing the offending bolt and see if the washer/seal comes off easily (it shouldn't if it was RTV'd on), if it does come off you could try cleaning up the washer/seal and the mating surface on the engine cradle and reseal it with some RTV and just put the bolt back in. I use Permatex Ultra Black RTV.

This kind of thing is why I rebuilt my own engines.

That is what I was thinking the RTV, as I was thinking I've seen no gasket sealer anywhere, but was unsure if I should try to remove it w/out the replacement part in hand. I have the black RTV from the valve covers, which I had to redo as the fel pro gaskets didn't hold so I used OEM and no problems.

 

[ETHACK]

Shoot I ment 5 30 I'm not sure why I mix em up all the time
Thanks @koda2000 for the correction


I use m1 full synthetic 3-4000 miles

Yea M1 5w-30 synthetic is what i'll use when get to 5K. It is what I run in other vehicles, change between 3-4K as well, usually aim for 3K.

 

[koda2000]

That is what I was thinking the RTV, as I was thinking I've seen no gasket sealer anywhere, but was unsure if I should try to remove it w/out the replacement part in hand. I have the black RTV from the valve covers, which I had to redo as the fel pro gaskets didn't hold so I used OEM and no problems.

There is very little sealant required anywhere on the SOHC engine so you wont see any.
- None on the valve covers
- None on the lower oil pan
- A tiny bit on the engine cradle front/rear around the seams
- A tiny bit on the front timing cover around the water inlets
- A tiny bit on the front of the engine cradle under the two front-most washer seals

I used a full Fel Pro engine gasket kit on mine and have had zero leaks in 1500+ miles since.

 

[ETHACK]

There is very little sealant required anywhere on the SOHC engine so you wont see any.
- None on the valve covers
- None on the lower oil pan
- A tiny bit on the engine cradle front/rear around the seams
- A tiny bit on the front timing cover around the water inlets
- A tiny bit on the front of the engine cradle under the two front-most washer seals

I used a full Fel Pro engine gasket kit on mine and have had zero leaks in 1500+ miles since.

Yea I've heard and had luck w/fel pro in the past, but the valve covers on this exp, both leaked in the back, I assume that was my fault and the gasket moved during assembly as fel pro only had 5 bolt holes so rear upper most portion was unsupported, the MC ones had 6 and was easily 2x surface area as the F/P ones. For the current leak, decided to drive with it on the trip through the pacific NW, 2500 miles, keep eye on the oil level, it's better after tightening it, but don't want to push it past torque spec anymore it's probably around 27-ish now, then once home I'll replace the seals. Then next major thing will be the front end suspension, looking at the kits now to get ideas/compare the different brands, need something that'll hold up not twist and fail on a pothole. Will have to start a thread on that, get some good solid advice from experienced ppl who know what they are talking about. I really do appreciate all the help and comments. I'm not a mechanic by any means, more of a parts replacer, and would rather spend money on the tools for the garage rather than someone else's garage outside major component rebuilds that is.

 

[ETHACK]

So I'm having hard time finding just those 2 seals, but it looks like an upper oil pan gasket kit for ranger and quite a few exp has them included in this 1 kit from Evan Fisher on amaz., this appears to me to be the seals in question, what do you guys think?

 

[koda2000]

So I'm having hard time finding just those 2 seals, but it looks like an upper oil pan gasket kit for ranger and quite a few exp has them included in this 1 kit from Evan Fisher on amaz., this appears to me to be the seals in question, what do you guys think?

Yes, that's them. I figured you'd have to buy the upper oil pan gasket to get the seals. That's why I suggested that you try to reseal what you have if you can it off without ruining it.

 

[ETHACK]

Yes, that's them. I figured you'd have to buy the upper oil pan gasket to get the seals. That's why I suggested that you try to reseal what you have if you can it off without ruining it.

I have run across these also on Amaz. as well although not sure of the size. $8 for 100. Will stick with gasket kit though, this is reference/ options only

 

[BTR]

@ETHACK - When you pull out the bolt/s, please post some pics of what you find, e.g., pics of the hole/s, washer/s, and bolt/s. Thanks.

 

[koda2000]

@ETHACK - When you pull out the bolt/s, please post some pics of what you find, e.g., pics of the hole/s, washer/s, and bolt/s. Thanks.

He'll find a hole like any bolt hole. If he looks very closely into the hole he may see the hex top of the stand-off tube, but it might not be noticeable if it's oily (which it will be).

 

[donalds]

I want to see this resolved first time I came across this problem on the forum

 

[Deleted member 348523]

Just my $.02 but fail-pro is total garbage. I chased rear main seal leaks on two 454 big blocks in my boat a few years ago. Got the normal fel-pro then the one that has the stiffener, then the different material one. All were ****. All leaked.
I ordered a victor-reinz, and it was obvious that the fail-pro mohas worn so much over time and they never spend the money to remake.
Just holding them next to each other it was painfully obvious the difference. Thickness being one.

I put in the victor, yes in both f'in motors. And had zero issues.

At the end of the day, I'd say fail-pro just refuses to re-invest in the molds and eventually the steel finally wears down.

just looking at them, you could tell the victor were 'crisp' and the fail-pro were ver 'rounded off' kinda like you would smooth down or meld down your carry gun to take off all the rough edges.

My suggestion, buy another brand, and victor if they have it.

 

[ETHACK]

Ok so made it back 4400 mile trip around pacific NW, truck/engine did excellent didn't miss a beat. Got home and changed the bolt/gaskets and that was definitely it, super easy, and just to say thanks to everyone again for helping me. Hard to believe it was that simple, usually my luck is a alot more complicated than that, thankfully not the case with this one. Someone wanted pics so will attach them, and I did use the black RTV as rec. by Koda2000, was able to remove old ones easily and could of re-used but instead saved those and used the new ones I got from Amazon. Just missed you 410Fortune, was in priest river visiting old HS friends, still beautiful country up there. Again Thanks!!!