Wheel bearings again :X

[Number4]

These bearings fail with no noticeable movement. Ford test I'd read at one point required the wheel to be off and a crow bar used to move the hub. The movement was very minimal for a bad bearing.

Timkin and Moog do NOT make hub bearings. Timkin only manufacturers roller bearings, such as our rear bearings.

Timkin and Moog source bearings from anyone, and should be considered a "white box hub bearing."

SKF is the only premium bearing I'm aware of. As far as I know, Fed Mog does not own them. Though they have been buying up companies recently.

 

[Joe in NY]

These bearings fail with no noticeable movement. Ford test I'd read at one point required the wheel to be off and a crow bar used to move the hub. The movement was very minimal for a bad bearing.

Timkin and Moog do NOT make hub bearings. Timkin only manufacturers roller bearings, such as our rear bearings.

Timkin and Moog source bearings from anyone, and should be considered a "white box hub bearing."

SKF is the only premium bearing I'm aware of. As far as I know, Fed Mog does not own them. Though they have been buying up companies recently.

Sorry to say but FM does own SKF.

 

[207]

I've never had an issue with Ford wheel bearings and in fact I this past summer I replaced front hubs, bearings and seals as well as brakes. And everything new on the rears... No noises or problems.
The bearings and races are NAPA / SKF. (this week I changed all of the bearings on the belt pulleys and belts)

Below in step 5 might be where some are getting the torque incorrect and over torquing bearing load.....

Anyway, this is the proper torque and pre-load for the 2 wheel drives. (4 wheel drive are different values)


With the brake disc and hub on the spindle, and the wheel bearing installed and the spindle nut on just hand tight,

1) While rotating the disc, tighten the spindle nut to 30 lb/ft (40 Nm)

2) Loosen the spindle nut two turns, making sure you do not let the disc come off the spindle

3) Rotate the disc and tighten the spindle nut to 17-24 lb/ft (23-34 Nm)

4) Loosen the spindle nut, again making sure not to allow the disc to start coming off the spindle

5) Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the disc to 17 lb/in (2 Nm)

6) Install the nut retainer, making sure you align the holes with the holes in the spindle nut, and install the cotter pin. The nut retainer has various hole alignments, allowing you to line them up without having to loosen or tighten the spindle nut.

By using this procedure, you are pre-loading the wheel bearing to its proper specs with the two steps of torquing, and then getting the final torque of 17-24 lb/in (2 Nm). Note that the last torque is INCH POUNDS, not FOOT POUNDS. You might have to borrow the torque wrench from Auto Zone or elsewhere that loans tools. Not too many "home" mechanics have torque wrenches other than Ft lbs.

*** Looked up 4 WD specs and got this. ***

Torque specs wheel bearing / hub bolts 110-148 ft lbs.
70 inch lbs for the abs sensor,
225 ft lbs for the axle nut.

 

[Number4]

I've never had an issue with Ford wheel bearings and in fact I this past summer I replaced front hubs, bearings and seals as well as brakes. And everything new on the rears... No noises or problems.
The bearings and races are NAPA / SKF. (this week I changed all of the bearings on the belt pulleys and belts)

Below in step 5 might be where some are getting the torque incorrect and over torquing bearing load.....

Anyway, this is the proper torque and pre-load for the 2 wheel drives. (4 wheel drive are different values)


With the brake disc and hub on the spindle, and the wheel bearing installed and the spindle nut on just hand tight,

1) While rotating the disc, tighten the spindle nut to 30 lb/ft (40 Nm)

2) Loosen the spindle nut two turns, making sure you do not let the disc come off the spindle

3) Rotate the disc and tighten the spindle nut to 17-24 lb/ft (23-34 Nm)

4) Loosen the spindle nut, again making sure not to allow the disc to start coming off the spindle

5) Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the disc to 17 lb/in (2 Nm)

6) Install the nut retainer, making sure you align the holes with the holes in the spindle nut, and install the cotter pin. The nut retainer has various hole alignments, allowing you to line them up without having to loosen or tighten the spindle nut.

By using this procedure, you are pre-loading the wheel bearing to its proper specs with the two steps of torquing, and then getting the final torque of 17-24 lb/in (2 Nm). Note that the last torque is INCH POUNDS, not FOOT POUNDS. You might have to borrow the torque wrench from Auto Zone or elsewhere that loans tools. Not too many "home" mechanics have torque wrenches other than Ft lbs.

*** Looked up 4 WD specs and got this. ***

Torque specs wheel bearing / hub bolts 110-148 ft lbs.
70 inch lbs for the abs sensor,
225 ft lbs for the axle nut.

That must be for the first or 2nd gen Explorers. Third gen have hub units and single axle nuts, no cotter pins and no cone/cup bearings.

 

[TechGuru]

Front Wheel Bearings
SKF BR930456

Rear Wheel Bearings
SKF GRW259