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Would you buy this? (Custom 4x4 parts)

Would these interest you?


  • Total voters
    11

slickjer

Member
Joined
February 23, 2004
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
City, State
Bountiful, Utah
Year, Model & Trim Level
'93 Limited
Hello everyone. I work in a metal shop that is owned by my uncle. I was recently 4wheeling a bit too hard in the snow and I heard a loud grinding noise come from the front driver-side hub, and at the same time my 4x4 stopped functioning. Well, needless to say I was stuck and had to be towed out. I took my truck into work and pulled off the hubs on both sides to see what broke. Inside I found the problem... There was a plastic part that mated with a steel part inside the hub. Well, needless to say the steel part ground the crap out of the plastic part. So I am thinking about mass producing an aluminum replacement. I made 2 for myself and they work AWESOME. I can wheel MUCH harder than I ever did before and these things don't break. This is only for FIRST GEN explorers as of now. If you're interested in ordering some let me know. Also, I haven't looked inside of a second gen hub but it's probably similar, so if you'd like me to make replacements for those also let me know. Thanks! My e-mail is slickjer@comcast.net .
 



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Too late for me

I've already switched to manuals.

Where were you 6 months ago?

Check with Kris Guilbeaux, he rebuilds the auto hubs too.
 






Doh! Everyone is switching to manuals. Thing is, this will cost around $80 for both hubs. Manuals are much more $$$, or I too, would have switched. I didn't own my explorer 6 months ago either. Doh!
 












There is!

dreamr said:
I wish there was a manual conversion available for me.

It's called a Gen1 Trail Rig! LOL...LOL...LOL
 












No $$$$

Well, these would only cost around $40 plus shipping. I'm making them out of high-grade aluminum so they'll be REALLY tough. Should be as strong as manual hubs theoretically... (The aluminum is the same stuff we use to make our high grade safety equipment, so it's very good stuff...) Does that sound like too much money? Also, it's VERY easy to change the old part out and the new part in yourself so no shop fees. If enough people like this idea I'll post directions and pictures. :)
 






if i didnt already buy manual hubs last year, i would have
 






slickjer said:
Well, these would only cost around $40 plus shipping. I'm making them out of high-grade aluminum so they'll be REALLY tough. Should be as strong as manual hubs theoretically... (The aluminum is the same stuff we use to make our high grade safety equipment, so it's very good stuff...) Does that sound like too much money? Also, it's VERY easy to change the old part out and the new part in yourself so no shop fees. If enough people like this idea I'll post directions and pictures. :)


Okay, so then where is the give? U-joints? will it be easier to buy the plastic piece and have that as the giving point, or buying them from Kris?
 






Sent an email, very interested.
 






RFR2212 said:
Okay, so then where is the give? U-joints? will it be easier to buy the plastic piece and have that as the giving point, or buying them from Kris?

Actually, since these are aluminum they are still much softer than than the steel in the hub. This should still be the point at which something breaks if anything, but they will have a much higher tolerance to wear and tear than the plastic had. Were is the break point if you convert to manual hubs which are stronger than regular auto hubs? :)
 






Very interested, just sent another pm:D
 






The mile marker lockouts I have on mine are as good as I'll ever want or need!
While they may be slightly more expensive, (mine were $115 for the complete set and conversion kit) they will allways be far superior to auto's no matter how many plastic parts you swap out for metal ones! The best thing about lockouts is that you get 2wd LOW-RANGE, which is great for pulling heavy (3+ tons) on a paved surface!
 






I really like the point about the 2 low, that is a good idea, although i find 2hi is just fine for towing our 5000lb trailer. I can see myself getting the gears, if they never break, simply because i dont have to flick the hubs off or one whenever i want to offroad or not, and its alot cheaper for me to keep the autos and replace the gear, $115 compared to $40 and the convenience of not having to turn on the hubs, i prefer the $40. Allthough if i was serious with offroading the $115 would be the best to go with.
 






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