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Dana 44 Identity?

Is it St. Patty's day......or are dana 44's talkin to me:confused::p:
How much green beer did you drink :chug:??? I have never had any axle talk to me, even the coveted Dana 44 Hi-pinion, reverse cut........:p::cool::rolleyes::confused::eek: You must be:bdrunk: so:party:on!
 



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Hey Brian, somebody replied to an old thread that I had posted in and I found some good info when I was reviewing it. I think I may have used that info on narrowing my axle step by step.
http://www.4wheeler.ca/index.php?showtopic=391

and here is an Explorer narrowed 6" with 15x10 and 2.5" backspace (I think similar to Rick's width) maybe what Froader was going for by going full width.



 






That thing looks wider then mine:confused:

For kicks, my truck is about a 79" wide.
 






Hey Brian, somebody replied to an old thread that I had posted in and I found some good info when I was reviewing it. I think I may have used that info on narrowing my axle step by step.
http://www.4wheeler.ca/index.php?showtopic=391

and here is an Explorer narrowed 6" with 15x10 and 2.5" backspace (I think similar to Rick's width) maybe what Froader was going for by going full width.




Thanks, I added that thread to "My Favorites" in my "SAS" folder.

I think I am going to keep this axle and leave my options open for a three or four link with coilovers sometime down the road.

Can't Colin just change his wheels out for different backspacing to get the same benefit as a full width axle (stability, more flex, etc.)?
 






yeah, I figured you can never do too much reading before chopping apart a pretty axle. And yes, just like Stico mentioned, that truck is WIDE, it's exactly the method and width I cut down my axle(6"). I like the idea that I could make a truck that wide if I wanted to.

And yes, for $45 a wheel +mounting Colin could acheive that, in actuality probably cheaper than swapping gears, install kits, labor, headache, gas, transporting etc.

Sorry Colin, but look at the bright side, Jacked93s truck looks pretty dang wide all for changing up some rims. I do recall asking Rick a while ago about his trailready beadlocks and I believe he said they are also 15x10 with 2.5"BS.
 






Only problem is 4-4.5" backspacing is a little easier on bearing and stuff vs. 2.5" Backspacing
 






ICONATOR_4dc5cc5249d0aa3ef4e2e38bb06f1a00.gif

As long as Mr. Kennedy keeps the horses and ponies out of the Explorer, I think the bearings will be just fine ;)
 






ICONATOR_4dc5cc5249d0aa3ef4e2e38bb06f1a00.gif

As long as Mr. Kennedy keeps the horses and ponies out of the Explorer, I think the bearings will be just fine ;)
As long as you don't try to slap my rear without saying; "Good Game", everything will be okay.:D No poines, they are too small for me. Even though they are very cute.

I was thinking of getting the Walker Evans rims like DB-1's, with the same backspacing. This is all speculation, of course, since I am no where near the date I can really start building that axle up. I have torn the left side completely down, and that axle tube is thick. I don't think it could be sleeved and still have a axle shaft fit inside. Maybe that is why they cut off the wedgies and knuckle's, shorten the tube and reweld.
 






Picture of left side axle tube;
03112008_6_Small_.jpg

Picture of boxes full of parts;
I have them seperated; Stuff I am going to clean up and keep, stuff I am going to keep for reference, hub innards, and stuff I am just tossing in the trash.
03112008_7_Small_.jpg
 






A question about stock Ford F-150 radius arms;

Is there any difference between left and right arms?
I marked them so I would not mix them up, but I can't see any difference between the two arms.

I found a great link for wristing a radius arm.
http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.php?t=261596
 






Not that I can remember.

You do need to remember that after you re-assemble those arms (and I assume you will put 7 degree c-wedge bushings on there) that you tighten the bolts up in cross fashion like tightening lug nuts.

I read somewhere that guys where putting their trucks together (early broncos) and they were sitting 1.5-2" lower on one side, they realized that when you tighten down the radius arms at the c-wedge they need to be even or it will put an uneven pull on the suspension. Compare that to a bent up pair of glasses, when you lay your sunglases on a table the ear pieces should both be laying down evenly. If they are bent they will push up all funny and fit strange on your head.
 












Thanks. Now I can get busy wristing one of them. That should keep me busy for a few months.
 






Brian I have a bunch of 7* c bushings, I'll see if I have a good complete set, they are yours if you want them;)
 






Not that I can remember.

I read somewhere that guys where putting their trucks together (early broncos) and they were sitting 1.5-2" lower on one side, they realized that when you tighten down the radius arms at the c-wedge they need to be even or it will put an uneven pull on the suspension. Compare that to a bent up pair of glasses, when you lay your sunglases on a table the ear pieces should both be laying down evenly. If they are bent they will push up all funny and fit strange on your head.


I wonder if that's my problem. I have been fighting a .5 to 1" lean fot the last year now :scratch: :fire:

I found a great link for wristing a radius arm.
http://www.broncofix.com/viewtopic.php?t=261596

That's the guy that built my radius arm. He lives up here in Bothel, WA. When I bent it in the roll over a couple of years ago, I took it back to him to replace it (thought I was going to have to pay for a new one) and he just said, "Nah, I'll take it to work and fix it with the 50ton press" :eek: Still works great.
 






Brian I have a bunch of 7* c bushings, I'll see if I have a good complete set, they are yours if you want them;)
Thanks, that would be great. My first new parts for the SAS.
That's the guy that built my radius arm. He lives up here in Bothel, WA.
That is good to know. He really seems to know his stuff. Best write up I have seen about wristed radius arms. Sometime in the future, I will have to start a SAS thread with all this information.
 






I wonder if that's my problem. I have been fighting a .5 to 1" lean fot the last year now :scratch: :fire:


maybe worth a shot, I would say jack the truck up by the frame if you could, let the suspension droop, loosen and re-tighten the 4 bolts per side. Maybe would need to replace the bushings if it's been like that a while, but it's a good place to start. I wonder if you just jacked it up by the frame you could measuer in some way as well (as far as which one is binding up sooner).
 












I am happy with my wristed Arm. Here are some pics of it in action:

Navajo010.jpg


Navajo032.jpg


Navajo034.jpg


Navajo020.jpg
 



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Other side:

Navajo024.jpg
 






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