Scott B.'s V8 Ranger Conversion | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Scott B.'s V8 Ranger Conversion

I purchased my Ranger XLT new in September 1993. I ordered it from Ford – even had to wait an extra 2 weeks for delivery due to the floods in the Midwest. After driving the truck for almost 18 years, (including 9 trips across the country) I have put 320,000 miles on the original 4.0L engine and A4LD transmission. The time has come to replace the drivetrain.

The new drivetrain will be a 5.0 L engine (SN95) with an AOD transmission. I am going to run my stock BW1354 transfer case. I have already swapped in a 31-spine 8.8 rear axle.

The objective of the engine build is reliability and reasonable performance. I am looking for 275 – 300 horsepower, lots of torque, and to start every time I touch the key.

I plan to keep the truck OBDI for simplicity, and use my existing column shifter for operating the transmission.

I will detail the engine build here, and the conversion/installation in my build thread. (Starting on page 10, post 192)
 



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Initial thoughts

Nothing is cast is stone yet - these are my initial musings...

Engine

Ford SN95 5.0L V8

0.030 bore (306.1 c. i. displacement)
Aluminum heads
Radiator – James Duff or Advance Adapters
Headers – Torque Monster or JBA shorty or MAC Performance
Engine block heater
Engine Mounts – L&L or Ranger + plate
Wiring Harness – Ford Fuel Injection.com
Intake – 1993 vintage Mustang


Transmission

AOD
Wide ratio gears of the 4R70W transmission
Advance Adapters adapter to BW 1354
 






Look what I found!

I picked this up from a local salvage yard - MPS Auto Salvage.

It's been rebuilt, and we have no idea what is inside. The good news is he knocked $150.00 off the regular price! It is complete and running.

The engine also has a set of Hooker equal-length shorty headers installed. I would consider using them, but they are showing corrosion/rust - I think I will pass.
 

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Once you get this one figured out you can do mine!

If the headers would work in that configuration you may find someone local who restores them and could ceramic coat them. Maybe even send them off to Turdle.

Block heater, is that because of your climate?

I'm looking forward to following along in both threads.
 






A block heater isn't really necessary here, but I do like to get up to snow country.

I do use mine here - I run it for about an hour before starting. I figure every little thing I can do will help the engine last.
 






...Is it in yet??? I want to see the shoe horn...:popcorn:..:D
 






I tore down the engine today.

Everything came apart fine with the exception of the PS pump. I need to remember how to pull the pulley off...

I had to use my impact to pull the crank pulley bolt - it was tight the entire way. Looking closely at the bolt threads, I wonder if it was cross-threaded when installed. I hope not. I will need to check the crank snout, and chase the threads, to make sure it is still useable.

I pulled off the intake and valve covers - everything looks clean. No sludge or buildup.

Whoever rebuild this before used some aftermarket (read - non-automotive) bolts in a few places. I am planning on replacing all the bolts on the engine, so I know what I have, and all the bolts are the same strength. ARP makes a complete bolt set - I just have to decide if I want 6 or 12 point bolt heads...
 






I pulled off the passenger side head this evening.

Doesn't look bad - we'll see what the machinist says.
 

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Minor Setback

After pulling apart the rest of the engine (not the shortblock) I discovered something. The block is a 1971 vintage, from a Tornio. :(

The block was put together well, the cylinder walls are glassy smooth - it even has Speed Pro coated pistons! I'd say this motor put out quite a bit of horsepower.

Unfortunately, I want/need a newer block, so this weekend I am going back to the salvage yard to swap it for a 94/95 block. Then, I need to tear apart the new engine, as it is scheduled to go to the machine shop the following Wednesday.

It's taken a while, but this project is finally under way!
 






Are there improvements in the newer block or is it for smog legality reasons? I am going to follow along as I am gaining more interest in a motor swap.
 






Both, actually.

The 1971 block is designed for flat tappet lifters. Yes, there are a few cams designed for roller lifters for this block, but they are horsepower cams, not torque cams.

Sometime back (not sure when) Ford modified the block for use with a roller cam. As such, there is a greater selection of cams for the newer design. Unfortunately, most of the cam grinds range from stock to horsepower - of course, torque goes up too. I have yet to find a true "truck" or "RV" cam. But I'm not done looking!

As for smog, in Georgia no one cares. IIRC, in California, the engine must be the same year or newer. I think you can go to a referee station to get an exception, but, even if you can, I'm sure there is an "expense" - excuse me, "fees".

Part of me would rather have a block that no one has been into, also. I found a few minor issues with this one - nothing major, but things that would have to be fixed.
 






Checkin in for this build. :D :popcorn:

Lemme know if I can be of any help Scott, I've still got leftover everything's from my build, if any of it would help you.. :\ :dunno:
 






Checkin in for this build. :D :popcorn:

Lemme know if I can be of any help Scott, I've still got leftover everything's from my build, if any of it would help you.. :\ :dunno:

How about labor???? Extra hands, especially experienced ones are always helpful!:D
 






Are there improvements in the newer block or is it for smog legality reasons? I am going to follow along as I am gaining more interest in a motor swap.

One more thing - the SN95 engine (1994, 1995, +) uses the serpentine belt, and a short, reverse rotation water pump. This setup fits much easier in the short engine bay of the Ranger. (The V8 Explorers use the same setup.)
 






Good to know about the blocks. I am a long ways away from being ready to do an engine swap. It really isn't all that bad in CA for the motor swap if you follow the rules. My wifes is running around in a 84 cj7 with a 98 tj motor. It is 100% legal and we did it maybe 6-7 years ago. It was a huge improvement over the 4.2 we pulled out that could be turned over by hand when you pulled on the fan belt.
 






How about labor???? Extra hands, especially experienced ones are always helpful!:D

lol I'd gladly work on anyone's engine build for free, I'm addicted to it now! If only you didn't live 500+ miles away.

Who's heads are you planning to run? ooohw, that sounded bad.. or are you going to just use the ones you pulled off that motor? Also, just read your comment on the 'glassy smooth' cylinder walls.. FWIW, you're going to definitely want some good crosshatching in there for good oil coverage to save the rings, especially if you're going to be working this puppy in more extreme conditions.
 






Not sure which heads I am going to run. I'll decide next week when I meet with the machinist/builder, and we pick a cam.

The block I have now is not going to be used. I know about cross hatching on the cylinders - I was really surprised to see how slick those cylinders are.
 






this i want to watch. in the next few months i am doing a v8 swap in my ex, but always wanted to see how hard it is to do with my 07 level 2.
 






both, actually.

The 1971 block is designed for flat tappet lifters. Yes, there are a few cams designed for roller lifters for this block, but they are horsepower cams, not torque cams.

sometime back (not sure when) ford modified the block for use with a roller cam. as such, there is a greater selection of cams for the newer design. Unfortunately, most of the cam grinds range from stock to horsepower - of course, torque goes up too. I have yet to find a true "truck" or "rv" cam. But i'm not done looking!

As for smog, in georgia no one cares. Iirc, in california, the engine must be the same year or newer. I think you can go to a referee station to get an exception, but, even if you can, i'm sure there is an "expense" - excuse me, "fees".

Part of me would rather have a block that no one has been into, also. I found a few minor issues with this one - nothing major, but things that would have to be fixed.

1985.
 



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this i want to watch. in the next few months i am doing a v8 swap in my ex, but always wanted to see how hard it is to do with my 07 level 2.

Some things might be a little easier (engine mounts, for example.) I suggest finding a 2007 donor vehicle, and grabbing all the electronics. OBD II is much more involved than OBD I.

(Yes, I've considered this on my 2006, after I finish my '93...)
 






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