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Removing hydraulic clutch line quick disconnect help?!

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Old 04-23-2005, 10:30 PM   #1
dsfii93sport
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Removing hydraulic clutch line quick disconnect help?!

Now I know I've seen a couple post about getting this off, but my goodness this is not no "quick" disconnect?! I have pushed the lil white ring into its housing tuggin and all trying to get this to come off what gives?

So there is a tool somewhere for this application? What does it look like cause someone pointed me to the wrong thing last time I was at the auto store. I ended up buying those quick disconnect plastic things used to remove fuel lines and it just wont fit in this thing at all... Seems I need some slim strong semi circular device?

Help!
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:35 PM   #2
dsfii93sport
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I gotta stop answering my own posts :-P

I guess this is the tool and what it looks like? Correct me if I'm wrong.

http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/Sh...CAT567_pg3.htm

Dang, that looks so simple!
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:39 PM   #3
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I still can't see how this thingy is going to push the white ring up any higher? Anyone know if that ring is suppose to be further than flush or do I have another problem?
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Old 04-24-2005, 07:53 AM   #4
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I just used a small flat screwdriver to tap the white ring in. At first it wouldn't come apart, but the trick turned out to be to push the ring in further than you think is necessary.




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Old 04-24-2005, 08:40 AM   #5
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The small screw driver works. You will want to push the lil white ring in untill you can't see it any more. When you do that give it a twisting and pulling motion all the same time. Be careful, cause when she goes you will smack the hell out of your hand. Might need to use the screw driver all around the little clip. Also you could try using compressed air to blow any kind of dirt or junk from inside the quick disconnect area.

Hope this helps.




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Old 04-24-2005, 05:51 PM   #6
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After some mauling and hitting and twisting I am still in the same damn boat... haha... I do have one question though if anyone knows... ?? Where does this come apart at?

There is a copper peice that the hydrolic line is shrinked to, then this copper peice goes into a brass peice. In between this brass and copper is the white ring which i have pushed all the way in. Now... Does this copper peice suppose to pull out of the brass w/ white ring,, OR... does the whole brass peice come apart somewhere up higher inside the bellhousing thats hard for me to see? Guess I feel it might help knowing where it is going to seperate at.
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Old 04-25-2005, 01:47 PM   #7
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Well, is there any stipulation to just removing the line from where it connects on the other end? besides having to bleed the clutch system when all said and done....

Is the other end just a nut I loosen and remove the line?
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Old 04-25-2005, 02:26 PM   #8
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Where the white ring is, that is where it comes apart. You do have the white ring pushed in at the top of the line too?? The white clip is like a fuel line, if you don't have it in all the way you wont get it apart. Another thing I have done is to cut the hard plastic line and use a compression union to place it back together. This seems to work well. If you follow this route make sure you cut it in a straight part of the line. Doing it this way is a pita usually cause it takes forever to get all the air out.

On the other end of the line it is held into the master cly with a roll pin and the line just slides in the end. This was could be a pita also, cause you will have to pull 2 foot of hard plastic line out with the trans and becareful not to damage it on the way out and like wise when putting it back it.

Best of luck!!!!




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Old 04-25-2005, 02:32 PM   #9
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I have hammered a lil screw driver all around this thing so that the white ring is about a tenth or 2 of an inch inside the brass all the way around. Still no budging at all and doesnt feel the white ring will go up anymore... Should I be able to turn the copper part while holding the brass outer part still? Or is there some key in there to keep it from rotating?
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Old 04-25-2005, 06:13 PM   #10
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Here's a pic of the slave. The line clicks into the end of the copper part. Hope this helps some.

I would try pushing the white ring in further. You're pushing it in straight, right? Tapping at the top, bottom, left and right, so it goes in evenly?
Attached Images
 




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Old 04-27-2005, 10:48 AM   #11
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Well thank you for the pic, it did help.. but I still had no luck getting it off and I'm done fishing w/ it.

Someone said cut the line and barb splice it later,, has anyone done this? Will a standard barb like for the fuel lines hold this okay? I have no clue what the pressure is in this line when the clutch is pressed? Anyone have any idea?

I read somewhere that hydraulic clutches can reach up to 500 psi oil pressure and I dunno if this specific design is like that and if it is,, will a simple barb connection withstand this?
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Old 04-27-2005, 12:05 PM   #12
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BINGO!!!

I got it finally after a refreshing retry this morning! haha.. Let me give the next person a hint for doing this easier! After you push the little white ring up in there as far as it will go, simply use on of those small prybar used on removing baseboards from lowes ( mine is about 15" long and angled about 45' on 1 side and about 180' on the other ) Well I placed the 45' side up against the copper right in the groove thats near where the hose connects, then lay the pry bar against the tranny, push the bar so that it wont slip off the groove and hit it w/ a hammer which forces the quick disconnect to pop right out without tugging w/ your hand and worrying about blowing up your precious blood vessels! haha..

Thanks again everyone for all the help..
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:02 PM   #13
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hey

Quote:
Originally Posted by RangerX View Post
Here's a pic of the slave. The line clicks into the end of the copper part. Hope this helps some.

I would try pushing the white ring in further. You're pushing it in straight, right? Tapping at the top, bottom, left and right, so it goes in evenly?
should that brass thingy move when it is connected to the tranny?
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:41 PM   #14
Iron Weasel
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It can move a little bit, but if it's flopping all over the place then it might be a problem.
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Old 11-03-2010, 07:33 PM   #15
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should that brass thingy move when it is connected to the tranny?
Define "move".




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Old 01-20-2013, 06:12 PM   #16
enzoreno
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Sweet!
Now I'll try to disengage that damn line...
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Old 01-20-2013, 09:36 PM   #17
enzoreno
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oh,yes!
it worked with the screw driver,a thiny one,and pushing the white plastic deep,and then pull the line out.
piece of cake...
thanks.
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:12 AM   #18
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Is this technique the same for a Mazda B4000?
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:59 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by PatrickWardak View Post
Is this technique the same for a Mazda B4000?
Yes. A Mazda B4000 is a Ranger, with only some cosmetic/trim differences. Mechanically, they are the same.




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Old 07-31-2013, 02:39 PM   #20
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Yeah that's what I thought until I had to get a wheel bearing adjusting nut. But thanks for the reply, I'm hoping they're the same.
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