Transmission Fluid Change

Hello All,

I've received some good information for this forum and decided to contribute. Forums like this are so helpful when you need to have information. I have intensely researched changing and flushing my transmission system. All the answers are not on 1 post. I'm going to hopefully get it all in one post for stock Explorer owners. I have a 2000 XLT 4x4 4.0L SOHC. These instructions can be modified towards your year...hopefully.


Here is what you'll need.

1. Buy yourself some ramps to drive up on. The $30 or so dollars you will spend will save you a lot of headaches.
2. You'll need a 13 millimeter nut for the pan. The ATF filter is also a metric size. I used a 3/8" ratchet for the pan and a 1/4" ratchet for the filter.
3. You'll need some vaseline. I'll explain later.
4. You'll need a decent sized catch pan. I used a 15 quart pan, and it held all fluids.
5. Many rags
6. A rubber or vinyl hose 5/16" in diameter for the opening
7. 15 quarts of Mercon V fluid. You can return the unused
8. A good filter. Forget the cheap **** one at Autozone. It's made in Taiwan. I bought mine at PepBoys, and it was a Purolator. Any American made one should be good.

Here is the process to change the filter and flush the system. It's for the newbie to the intermediate.

1. Put aluminum foil around the catalytic convert to protect it from fluid drain. Also put aluminum foil around the piece before the catalitic right under the pan.

2. Once under the truck, you'll need a flat head screwdriver to pry off the heat shield from the pan. The clip furthest away from the engine (only 2 clips) comes off easily. The second clip will not come off all the way. Don't bother with it as it will be out of your way when then pan comes off.

3. Start unscrewing the screws little by little. Each screw should be undone about the same distance. The fluid will start to leak once the screw become loose. Then drop the front screw more. The fluid will leak more from the front when you unscrew those further. Then unscrew all the screws but the ones on the passenger side. The pan should hang towards the driver side. The fluid will then poor out of that side and the back. There is no way to keep this clean. The way I described wasn't too bad. I had a big cardboard box (flattened of course) under me to portect the garage floor and to absorb the fluid. At this point, unscrew the remaing screws. The pan still has fluid in it. It will come out towards the driver side. You shouldn't have to disconnect anything else to get it off.

4. My gasket was stuck to the trans and not the pan. It came off easily. I cleaned the screws and the pan with denatured alcohol. There will be a magent in the pan. Clean that well. I also cleaned the rim of the trans where the gasket goes with a rag soaked in the alcohol. Don't use regular isopropyl alcohol. You can find denatured alcohol at Home Depot or any hardware store that has solvents. Use an air bloer to get loose dirt out and to dry the pan. I used the one in the can.

5. The filter comes off next. It should pull down easily. I reused the filter screw. The new filter came with the o-rings. I oiled them with new fluid before installing them. There are only 2 of them.

6. Once the filter is replaced and the pan cleaned up, you'll need some vaseline. I used a little in the pan grooves on all 4 sides. I only used it in one of the grooves in the middle per side. It kept the gasket somewhat in place when I went to put it on. The pan should go on without any problems. You'll have to line up the gasket with the holes so the screws can go in. The heat shield should naturally be up and out of your way before re-attaching.

7. Screw the screws in by hand in a criss cross pattern. This means an X like pattern. I started with the ouside corners and worked in. They say to use a torque wrench. I don't think you need one. Tighen them by hand as much as you can. The use the wrench to get the play out and tighten them nice and snug. Tight but not too tight. Go around a couple of time to make sure because there may be some play in the screws.

8. Add 4 quarts to the pan through the pipe the dipstick goes into.

9. The 2000 has an extra trans fluid cooler. Older models may not. You'll want to unplug the rubber hose from the radiator or trans cooler that feeds the in line of the transmission. This is the top line coming out of the trans. If you have the extra cooler like I do, it is the left line when looking at your vehicle from underneath with your head facing towards the engine. You'll unscrew the fastner. I did it by going through the bumper. Then you'll drop it. Dirty fluid will come out. You can then attach your hose to the nipple on the trans cooler or radiator. I used a clear tube to see the color of the fluid, and it was about 1.5 feet long. These can be purchased at Home Depot as well. For the hose that just came off, get a big enough screw to fit the diameter (don't thread it) and re-tighten the fastner. I didn't the first time and fluid also came out of that. It wasn' so bad in the sense that the crap fluid came out. I noticed it quickly though.

10. For the next step, you'll need a partner. Turn the car on. I have read elsewher to put it in neutral, but I found it worked better in park. It will flow after a couple of seconds. Stop the engine if too many bubbles come out, wait a few seconds, and restart it. Have a container that measures out a quart. I used an old water bottle. A quart is 32 oz. Have the partner turn on the car and drain out 1 quart. Then shut off the car. You'll need a catch pan underneath to get the extra drainage from the tube. Add a quart to the pan. Repeat this process until the fluid starts coming out cherry red. It took me about a total of 11 quarts.

11. Once cherry red, disconnect the hose you attached and re-attach the trans cooler line.

12. Once it's all reattached, start the car and check for leaks. If no leaks, rev the engine to about 2500 RPM for a few seconds. Then proceed to move between the gears with the brakes on. The fluid should be flowing well.

13. Take the car out for a drive and get it to normal operating temperatures. When you come back, you might not have the right amount of fluid. With the car running, take out the dipstick, clean it, and reinsert it for a reading. If you are not in the crosshatches, add some more fluid and repeat the process with the dipstick. The dipstick on the first pull will catch fluid in the tube, and you will not get an accurate reading. Don't overadd. You will be safer adding small amounts. It's time consuming but better than having more fluid. The fluid needs to be measured when the car is hot. Once you have the right amount, you are all done.

I hope this post helps everyone. I probably won't respond to post as I am not on the list to receive notifications. There was a lot of research that went into this. The whole job should take about 4 to 6 hours. Good luck if you try this. It's not that hard, and the car runs so much better with clean fluid.

"9. The 2000 has an extra trans fluid cooler. Older models may not. You'll want to unplug the rubber hose from the radiator or trans cooler that feeds the in line of the transmission. This is the top line coming out of the trans. If you have the extra cooler like I do, it is the left line when looking at your vehicle from underneath with your head facing towards the engine. "

I'm confused here . If I am unplugging "the rubber hose from the radiator or trans cooler that feeds the In line of the transmission" then A) the In line to the trans. could also be called the Out line from the Cooler , B) wouldn't I want to drain/flush from the Cooler's Out line as to flush the Cooler, and C) why would I then plug the Cooler's Out line and have D) drain/flush from the Trans. In line (isn't that reverse flow)?

Hope I was clear here. I'm researching this myself and this part about which line to disconnect, what to plug, and what to drain from is the most baffling part. Nice step-by-step, otherwise!

the flow of the trans cooling system really doesnt matter, as long as you flush the fluid out you are okay.

I simply pull both lines from the transmission (metal lines) put the lower lines into a drain pan, hold the air up to the upper line and blow. This evacuates all fluid from the trans cooler system.

If you want to drain the coolers (both the one built into the rad and the aux) then you can simply pull teh rubber hose that goes from the bottom of the radiator outlet to the inlet on the trans cooler, and let gravity do the work.

the fluid leaves the transmission, enters the top of the radiator, leaves the bottom of the radiator and enters the top of the aux cooler. Leaves the bottom of the cooler and heads back to the trans, that is the factory setup. Do not coufuse the skinny trans cooler lines with the larege rubber engine coolant hoses hahaha

Hey 410Fortune,

Does the transmission fluid on a '92 run through the main Radiator along with the engine coolant as you're describing, or is the Radiator-to-Cooler setup you're describing on later models? When I look at the front end of my '92, I see a smaller radiator about 8" x 12" (est.) attached to the front of the Radiator proper on the drivers side. This was what I thought was the only transmission fluid Cooler on my '92 (please pardon my ignorance). Both skinny rubber hoses that attach to it are on the far bottom corners.

Could I disconnect both of these and blow to drain it as you described, then route both metal lines (via clear tubing) that said rubber cooler lines attach to, to my drain pan?

To Future Tranny Fluid Do-It-Yourselfers (helpful additions to this step-by-step):

I disconnected the line coming down from the aux. cooler closest to the passenger side and routed the disconnected rubber line from the cooler to a clear tube (from hardware store) into gallon jugs marked with a Sharpie marker at 1-qt. intervals (use water and an empty 1qt. bottle to arrive at the markings, 4 old milk jugs - once you cut off the top you'll get 3 qt in each with room to spare. Once you've measured one jug put the others next to the marked one and mark them at the same heights inside and out)

The metal line left open that runs to the transmission I cut a piece of old rubber fuel line, clamped on end to the metal tube, and shoved a drill bit into the rubber nubbin I just made and clamped that in as well in effeort to plug the line. (Feel free to come up with you own half-arsed way of doing this )

On my '92 A4LD, I used a Hastings Microfelt filter part# TF140 , runs about $20 (much nicer than the Advance Auto offering - they sell a $12 kit and can special order a $30 Beck/Arnley kit that is the exact same metal screen thing as the $12 kit!!!). I found the Hastings at a local owned store. No need for the Vaseline listed above with this kit -- the gasket holes are slightly smaller than the screws so if you start them into the pan up through the gasket (about 1/4"), it will hold the screws for you.

I also put in a drain plug kit (available at Advance Auto, requires 1/2" drill bit, drill incrementaly larger holes till you get there) in the far back driver's side corner of the pan. This looked like the best place to me, it doesn't interfere with the moving shifter rail here. put some scrap 2x4's under the corner for support and have a buddy hold the pan while you drill.

There was no magnet in my pan, so I also got a 1"x2"x0.5" heavy duty magnet from Radio Shack (that place is Evil, find one elsewhere if you can) and put that in the bottom of the pan up against the driver's side wall of the pan where it will be behind the solenoid and infront of the shifter rail in the Park setting. You'll have to eyeball and test fit it before bolting the pan up. A slightly smaller magnet here would probably be better, but I managed to fit mine.

I put 3.5 qts. of fresh El Cheapo fluid into the pan after changing the filter (it just gets pump out in the flush), then ran 10qts Amsoil fluid through for the flush, plus another 1/2 qt after a short drive for a top off (1/2 qt will make it go from the very end of the dipstick to al the way full -- just add a little then recheck).

Otherwise, I followed the above steps. Good Luck!

Now I am convinced never to change the tranny fluid myself. Much less painfull to let the local Ford boys do it for me.

cloud9 said:

Now I am convinced never to change the tranny fluid myself. Much less painfull to let the local Ford boys do it for me.

Click to expand...

Doing a DIY tranny flush/fill is a painless 10-15 minute job in your driveway. No fuss, no mess.

You can do it ....

The following is how I flush mine:

I disconnected the "to transmission" hose from my remote filter housing. I plugged and clamped the disconnected line and added and hose clamped a 6 ft length of 3/8? line to the housing. The other end went into a calibrated water jug ( 1 gal size ).

The the truck run at idle while 1 quart is pumped out. Stop the truck andd add back 1 quart of new ATF.

We used 15 quarts of Amsoil ATF.

Even though this ATF ( Amsoil ) has about 50 k miles on it, it still looked remarkably good, just slightly darker in color.

After the flush/fill was completed, I added a new Amsoil filter to the housing and reattached the hoses.

The procedure took my son and I about 15 minutes to complete. There was no mess since we were well prepared for the flush; nary a drop was spilled.
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Must be different with a 2000 X with an SOHC and 4wd. On my 98 SOHC 4wd there is no way that the tranny pan can be completely removed without first disconnecting the front drive shaft or the exhaust. One or the other is in the way and block you from removing the tranny pan all the way.

It all sounds harder than it really is, if you can change your motor oil and filter, you can do this. I just gave it in super-detailed format because that's how I like my instructions -- I hate when stuff is left out or left to guessing. Just allow for the time to do it right and not rush, and it helps to have some friends in on it too. I had one buddy working the ignition, another holding and watching the drain jugs, and me adding the fluid, worked out really well. I just gave it in super-detailed format because that's how I like my instructions -- I hate when stuff is left out.

So I climbed under the Explorer this morning and snapped these pictures.

http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a375/ericg75/Explorer Tranny/

I read what Lee said about his 1998 SOHC. Am in the same boat? It doesn't look like there's enough room to remove the pan.

Can't tell from your pics but I believe you'll have the same problems that I did. I'm pretty sure that the 98 and 99 SOHC's with 4wd are the same and require a disco of the front drive shaft and/or exhaust to completely remove the pan. There are other posts on this site that address this issue which I later found. You may want to do a little more searching to confirm. Good luck.

Hmm...having never worked on your model year and looking only at your pics, my opinion is it looks like there is room to drop the pan, but the real mother trucker for you will be getting a ratchet on the pan bolt(s) over the exhaust - make sure it is cold before you try. Also, it looks like your pan has a drain plug on the rear driver's side - if so, let the fluid out there before dropping the pan for less of a mess when you drop the pan towards the rear of the truck to clear the fluid intake and your exhaust pipe.

It might look like there is room which is what I thought too. After spending several hrs on your back trying to maneuver the pan to get it out you'll think differently. It's an issue that's been addressed before on this site for 98/99 sohc's with 4wd.

Thanks guys. I'll crawl back under there this weekend prepared to remove the driveshaft.

This may be way out there but.....Would it be possible to just get two five gallon buckets, Mark them up with 1 quart intervals (if you wanted to). Poor the New ATF in one bucket and run that into an "in" on the tranny system and then have the other bucket hooked up to an "out" on the tranny system. Then just start up the engine and wait for the Color to get brighter, or the 15 quarts to be almost empty.....Would the system be able to pump that out? is there a reson for adding it up top? I've never done it and are looking into it in the future. Sorry if I'm Ignorant.

Sounds like you're describing a flush. I need to drop the pan to change the filter. I think there are some threads around here that describe in detail the process you're suggesting.

Gotcha. Thanks. THis process is something I've partically done to my old truck **Cough**Chevy**cough** And It wasn't that bad. I made the mistake of not making sure the Filter wasn't in all the way and the next day I couldn't get it out of the drive way. I had to take the pan down again and fix it. It wasn't fun. The second time I used my drill to unscew the bolts. Went way faster. I think I still kind of smell like transmission fluid from that. Yuck. Good right up, I'll check out some of the Fluid flush threads.