Solved Transmission Filter Recommendation

I am getting tired of explaining my strongly held opinions on this (and yes I know the old saying that the value of an opinion is generally inversely proportional to the strength with which it is held.)

If someone wants to do a side by side comparison of transmission filters available, they can be my guest. No more requests why this one is better or that one. Go buy them and disassemble them yourselves and draw your own conclusions. That said...I ONLY use Fram/SPX MICROFELT.

I post this as my LAST thread on filters for the A4LD and 5R55. FRAM Micro felt. I repeat... FRAM Microfelt. If you can buy Fram transmission filters that is what you will be getting. It is simply the best out there in my opinion. Now I know we rag on FORD from time to time, but what do THEY use? Here is their box:



And here is the filter:



SPX bought FRAM a couple years back.... and...MICROFELT!! Getting a hint? If you can buy a FRAM transmission filter you will be getting the same one FORD sells, for more. Buy FRAM. Please. Ok ..for those asking why, Purolater filters are a screen! A friggin screen! FRAM is a fibrous material, filter material. We can debate FRAM oil filters til the cows come home but these are transmission filters! Simply put, FRAM is the best for these transmissions. End of story. End of rant.



Oh another important thing .... besides the fact they need O rings on the snout ends.... the bolt. IS TOO LONG. So they send you a space filler.... MAKE SURE YOUR USE IT... otherwise your filter won't be securely fastened.



Put it on the bolt...



Some of the newer FRAM kits have 2 bolt sizes in them... use the short one for the 4WD filter.

Also that bolt is also a VB bolt, best to torque it to 90 inch lbs is you can.

Ok, I'll stop. This is the LAST THREAD FROM ME ON THIS SUBJECT. (Sorry if I sound testy - it's that time of the month).

ps. and yes if it filters better it needs to be changed more often. Change your fluid frequently. 30K to 50K.

married? pfft! no way i can afford to have an explorer and be married at the same time

tis a great side-by-side comparison though - as always

I used the fram on your recomendation when I changed to an oversized pan on my 4x2, was about 18 bux
Note: you need to go with the 4x4 filter with an oversize pan.

is that Micorfelt made of a Dacron material? Just curious because my trans builder insits that I use Dacron fiber filters only.
I know he is just trying to get me to avoid the crappy screen types with the rivited on pickup tube (WTF is up with that?) but I just want to clarify in my head that the "Microfelt" and Dacron fiber"" filters are one in the same...

Motocraft or better for me only when it comes to filters....

spindlecone said:

Note: you need to go with the 4x4 filter with an oversize pan.

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I dont have an oversized pan but please explain why for those readers who have a 4x2 and an oversized pan.

the sump on the 4x4 pan is MUCH deeper then the sump for the 4x2, so when you are making steep inclines the pickup on th efilter is still immerssed in fluid.
the pan manufacturer should tell you what filter you need.
My A4LD pan was a prototype, the 4x4 filter was still too deep, so we used clay to determine the correct depth to cut the the 4x4 filter off at, leaving approx 3/8" between the bottom of the pickup and the bottom of the pan.

IZwack said:

I dont have an oversized pan but please explain why for those readers who have a 4x2 and an oversized pan.

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Actually the tranny pan on the 3rd gens is identical,or for that matter any 5R55 4x2, 4x4.
The filters however differ in that the 4x4 filter has about a 1 inch extension on the pickup that go's deeper into the pan.

What they all said.

(warms my heart to see folks chime in, Especially smart folks who add to the discussion. Like you all)

Now for a cast aluminum pan with a temp sender boss for $89.

ps. 410 I have no idea what it is made of, but I do know there is nothing better out there, so if that is what they want it must be Dacron.

why not just do a T-Tech trans service. That gets 100% fluid exchange and do a pan drop!

PSA: the pro-king filters at PartsAmerica (they've got lots of names) are also just a screen.

vrytired said:

PSA: the pro-king filters at PartsAmerica (they've got lots of names) are also just a screen.

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That's funny because I just bought a pro-king filter from Advance Auto(before finding this thread) and it has the dacron filter material, looks exactly like the pictures.

It's for an 01 5r55e 4x4 filter part number FK-268-56011G <shrug>
hmm strange.

<-- is guilty of buying the Pro-King filter too, but for an E4OD

I'm up tp 27,000 on my 2006 EB 4X4 Explorer - should I have the filter changed with the fluid ? I know Delta Sonic will flush the fluid out and replace it with new fluid.

It might be a good idea for preventative maintenance.

That is the exact same filter the WIX sells. Definitely the best one to use.

Scott!! Long time no see

Excellent thread, great subject

I'm taking an engine rebuild class from a true professional at my local community college this semester. He's been in the industry for 40 years, and runs the motor pool maintenance at a huge regional construction company -- they have literally thousands of vehicles.

His advice: always get OEM filters (air, ATF, oil, fuel). In this case, Fram just happens to be the OEM ... you're just paying about $8 more (depending on where you get things) for the ATF filter if you get Motorcraft. Of course, the usual advice about suppliers applies: don't expect best price at your local Autozone.

The only time he'll deviate from the OEM rule is with oil filters, particularly if you run Mobil1 like I do. The Mobil1 filter is the best available ... Fram, Wix and the rest of 'em can't touch the filtration power of that Mobil1 filter.

I'm just starting to get into tearing engines down, and I'm learning why filters are so bloody important. Those little particles of dirt can kill I'm doing my tranny tomorrow.

1st time trannie service

Okay guys (and gals), I've been a long time lurker and this is my 1st post. My 02 xlt 4.0 4X4 now has about 105k miles on it. No major expenses yet other than a frozen rear brake caliper at about 50k. Around 70k the rear end began geting noisy. It's ready to completely give out now so I've been saving up to get the differential serviced - until the other day when my OD light began flashing furiously on the way to work. I lost over drive until I pulled onto a side street, killed the engine, and re-started. I havent noticed any other major shifting issues, but the gas mileage is on a major decline (I watch it closely as an indicator of overall health). Having read the forums here I've decided to do a tranny pan drop and filter change in lieu of a full blown flush. I figure this is a safe start as more fluid can be changed out later. Lemme know if anyone else has had an experience similar to mine.

I just bought a '03 with 78k miles. I want to do a tranny oil and filter change. What should I watch out for? Any pointers? This will be my first tranny oil change.

robsxlt said:

Okay guys (and gals), I've been a long time lurker and this is my 1st post. My 02 xlt 4.0 4X4 now has about 105k miles on it. No major expenses yet other than a frozen rear brake caliper at about 50k. Around 70k the rear end began geting noisy. It's ready to completely give out now so I've been saving up to get the differential serviced - until the other day when my OD light began flashing furiously on the way to work. I lost over drive until I pulled onto a side street, killed the engine, and re-started. I havent noticed any other major shifting issues, but the gas mileage is on a major decline (I watch it closely as an indicator of overall health). Having read the forums here I've decided to do a tranny pan drop and filter change in lieu of a full blown flush. I figure this is a safe start as more fluid can be changed out later. Lemme know if anyone else has had an experience similar to mine.

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Most likely the transmission overdrive light flashing and the lack of overdrive resulted from a worn overdrive servo pin bore. It can cause the overdrive servo to "****" over sideways and not apply the band, or apply it slowly and cause a "slipping" engagment. The bad news is a flush will not fix it if this is the case. The transmission will have to be removed to repair the problem. In the past when the servo bore would wear out, the only way to repair it was to replace the transmission case.

Now for some good news. There is a company out there that sells servo bore repair kits. Follow this link http://www.servobore.com to the site and you can purchase the tools/kit to repair your case. The only problem is the kit is expensive and comes with more than you need to repair one case. Maybe you could find a reputable transmission/machine shop that has or will purchase a kit to repair your case for less than it would cost you to purchase the kit and repair it yourself.

The reason the servo bore wears out so quickly is because they apply overdrive in first gear to get the "extra" fifth gear. So the servo is doing twice as much work as it used to in say an A4LD or 4R44/55E. I hope this helps you out. I have seen it be an intermittent concern in the past and may not be evident all the time. Watch for 2nd and 5th gears to flare or not engage at all.