What can I finish my sliders with (Denver,CO) | Ford Explorer Forums
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What can I finish my sliders with (Denver,CO)

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becker69

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City, State
Centennial, CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
01 Sport Trac
Ok, I have searched profusely and I've gotten some intel as to prospective finishes but none seemed to address my issues;

I had sliders made a while back with 2x2 square tube, with round tube outriggers and (stupidly) finished them with Rustoleum Hammerite finish spray paint. Well after 2 winters the paint is badly flecked off and I have a decent amount of surface rust to clear off before finishing them. They are welded to the frame (blasted ORI shop that built them for me was NOT supposed to weld them :fire: :fire: ) ! Regardless.... I realize that while I clear the rust the surface prep is the most important thing to assure a good finish (regardless of product used) so this time I am going to take my time prepping. Taking into account the snow here and that I do wheel and drag my sliders all over rocks.....

What should I look at finishing them with to assure that I won't have to do this again in 2 years?! Paint? POR 15? Herculiner? Look at spray on options (if a shop will warranty against the scrapes on the underside)? I need help. I don't want to spend a ton of $$ but want to do it right. Thanks in advance.
 



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Since you actually use them and scrape them on rocks. I don't think anything will stay on there permanently. I just touch mine up after every two or three runs since they are just spray painted. Maybe someone else will have something that may work?
 






FROADER said:
Since you actually use them and scrape them on rocks. I don't think anything will stay on there permanently...
Click to expand...

That's kind of what I was concerned about. I'd like something with texture, but POR 15 (with the whole 3 step process; will be costly) might offer a nice alternative of being able to scuff and reapply some of that after dragging them on terrain.
 












If you want texture, you can always go for Herculiner. Sand off the rust, use a steel pad or some lighter sandpaper to mar the metal, wash it off, and apply it.
 






Froader I'll tell ya it's issues like these that make me really miss Malibu and the great weather the SW has to offer.

Adam; I'll have to research the herc idea again (it's been some time since I really looked at it closely); but I think a while back I was worried about rust resurfacing under the herc (basically if I did an inadequate prep job) and causing it to bubble or stop adhering. How easy are touch ups with herc? i.e., if I were to scrape the crap out of it and wait a short while and try to reapply a 'patch' of it? If I can't get a finish with texture than I'll trim some strips of skateboard grip-tape so I don't break a hip sliding off them when they're covered in ice :D If I were elite I'd post pics.
 






I tell you what, mine even get like this a little.

Sliders_unfinished_003.jpg


Sliders_unfinished_004.jpg


Sliders_unfinished_006.jpg


Sliders_unfinished_010.jpg
 






Thanks Colin! :thumbsup: It helps with the pics. I was less than thrilled with the welds, and spraying the underside (grey as in the pics) is a pain without a full lift to get under there. They sure look alot crappier in picture than I'm used to in person :( but that gets me motivated.

Its also that my tires are wide enough that rocks and crap get thrown up at them and pitted the paint, which then brought rust.

Herc according to there site is easy to touch up with... so maybe if I can get them as close to bare metal again, I could black herc them wait for them to fade (the altitude here shouldn't take long for that) then UV protect them. I still have my tupperware pulled off (the side grey plastic skirting) till I get them done for good.

Any experience with herc or other finishes and not getting roll (or brush if applicable) strokes visible? Or does the goo just run together well enough to hide those imperfections :D
 






becker69 said:
...Any experience with herc or other finishes and not getting roll (or brush if applicable) strokes visible? Or does the goo just run together well enough to hide those imperfections :D
Click to expand...

As the others have said the best you can do is coat the underside to lesson the damage.. I have used Por15 for many tasks and it is a VERY durable surface.. When I was restoring my TTB I used rustoleum @ 1st, but quickly found that it would scratch/ chip when simply moving the parts around :thumbdwn: Por15 is easily 10x the durability of a paint product. :thumbsup: check out Paint vs powder coat I wheel my truck and it gets scratched, but only the scratch will rust; the rust doesn't get under it and flake it off like it would with paint. There are several other companies (Eastwood, KBS Coatings..) that make similar products..

TTB_and_components_ready_for_install_WEB.jpg
 






I forgot to thank you for the information DeRocha.

I am really impressed with what I have read about POR15 for sure. I am at a crossroads with the decision between POR15 and Herculiner. I need to do some more economic assessment and that may sway me either way. I know it would 3x the work, but I'm considering doubling efforts and looking into a combination of the two (either POR15 black with black herc. over it... or POR15 and Herc'ing portions of the bars-like the plate steel steps for example). Although I realize this would be serious duckets $$! Any ideas or opinions on these ideas.

Theoretical question; if $ weren't a concern (although it is...) what would you all finish them in to maximize durability and minimize the subsequent maintenance on them?
 






I have a powder coating oven and in the process of building a larger one. My sliders I did not PC. Yes it is very durable and I have a lot of things PCed in my B2 build. I love the way it looks like you just did it even though it may be years old. But for sliders that will get used I just rattle can them. If you chip PC then back to the oven or use one of those expensive heat lamps just for PCing small areas at a time.
 






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