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Fuel pump / Fuel tank - Tips and warnings

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Old 05-23-2007, 02:23 PM   #1
Dash Riprock
LA, CA
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Fuel pump / Fuel tank - Tips and warnings

My '95 XLT , 2WD, recently died, luckily in my driveway. I had just changed a brake rotor and went to move the truck and it didnt start. Actually made me chuckle:

Change brake rotor = kill truck.

Obviously the two were not connected. So using all the great info from this site, I did all the trouble shooting checks:

No fuel pump hum upon key on
Fuses good/have power
Relays click/have power
Inertia switch not tripped and has power
Test lead from OBD I connector grounded - no fuel pump activation
Voltage at last connector before the pump was good.

Diagnosis: Fuel pump =

My first warning: Ive seen the link below used to describe the procedure. Although it says it is for a '95 XLT, I found it beared no resemblence to the fuel tank and pump configuration of my '95 XLT. It is probably for a 4WD, or maybe a design change occured within the year.
http://www.explorerforum.com/Singlet...fuelpump2.html

I also saw some differences in the Autozone Repair info available online, notably the tank mounting configuration and the actual fuel pump assembly design.

So on to the fuel tank. My first tip, if it isnt obvious, is take down the spare tire (as well as the normally mentioned left rear tire). With the axle jacked up 4-5 inches on jackstands, I found I could nearly sit upright underneath the truck. This allows much better access to the fuel filler and vent line on the back of the tank. Also, i think it would be best if you remove the filler and vent lines before partially lowering the tank. Its a bit of a struggle and Im sure it would be easier if the tank wasnt moving around.

My first challenge was to drain my gas tank, which was nearly 3/4 full. Trust me, do not try to take the tank down with any appreciable weight in it.
For starters, I tried to get a hose all the way down the filler neck into the tank. I couldnt do it, no matter how I tried to twist the hose. I finally had to disconnect the fuel filler lines at the tank first (which you are going to do anyway)to get the line in. Dont bother fighting the entire length of the filler line.

As for the siphoning, my brain really kicked in and allowed me to avoid the wonderful Mouth-Full-of-Gas dental rinse. I made a simple air pump, that anyone with a compressor and air nozzle can make for free. See picture below


I inserted the air nozzle with a small bit of tubing and a small tip from a Mighty Vac Brake bleeder kit into a hole I cut in the larger tubing that I fed into the gas tank. I angled the air flow toward the end of the line that was inside my gas can and blew air into the siphon hose. Voila! instant suction and the gas came roaring out of the tank. Once you have a good flow you can stop the air and just let the thing drain. Even if you dont have the tip I had, all you need is a smalll tube that you can insert into the larger siphon tube and angle "downstream".

Now for a big warning. My fuel tank was mounted with one strap at the rear and at the front into a bracket that attached to the frame. When you look at this thing you have two choices. Either take off the entire bracket with the tank, or remove the two bolts holding the tank to the bracket. Well, I chose the two bolt method. I chose wrong. Wouldnt you know Ford used RED Loc-Tite on them? I snapped a bolt easier than snapping a dryed twig. Damn! Take my advice: TAKE DOWN THE ENTIRE BRACKET! The picture below is forward looking aft at the front of hte gas tank. You can see where the bracket attaches to the frame rails.


Luckily I avoided going to Ford by rummaging through my stuff and finding a suitable bolt/nut/washer combo that retained the rubber grommet used to "soft-mount" the tank to the bracket. Before doing that, however, I had to remove the captive nut that was welded to the top of the tank flange that the original bolt screwed into.
So there I was straddling this 4 foot long gas tank, die grinder and cutoff wheel in hand, sparks flying..... I got the welds weakened and snapped the nut off the flange with a socket and extension. I felt like Slim Pickens in Dr. Strangelove:


Also, about removing the pressure lines from the tank. Autozone rented me a special tool to disconnect the fittings on top of the tank. They are 8-10 inches long, plastic, kind of like a tuning fork with the part that clamps around the line on one end. Forget them, I strugged with them for 20 minutes and gave up, went out yet again and spent $25 on a much more compact metal tool and the lines came off first time, very easy.

Now comes the actual fuel pump. I removed my pump from the tank to find that it was one big unit, the pump was actually inside a plastic housing. When I went to Autozone, they could only sell me the actual pump which was one of two pumps available, depending on electrical terminal size (thin or wide). So I go back home and disassemble the entire pump housing and pry apart the plastic housing to get to the pump. Lo and behold, the pump I had did not match EITHER of the available Autozone pumps! Mine had one wide terminal and one thinner terminal.
I decided to go to a local independent parts place and they also found the pump P/Ns on the computer corresponded only to the pump itself. However, they had a parts manual that also showed a 3rd pump that for some reason did not show on the computer listing. This 3rd P/N was the entire plastic assembly. I was in business. Unfortunately, I now had to connect the electrical wires to the wiring on the harness. The pump assembly came with some of theose crimp-type butt-end connectors, but I decided to make things a little stronger by soldering the wires together and then shrink-wrapping the wiring. The pic below shows the pump, removed from the plastic housing.



I really never expected to be doing assembly work on this job. I was expecting a straight "remove and replace". So that all that running around and whatnot made the job quite a bit longer than expected. In the end, I rated the job a "2-Knuckler", that is, I only skinned two knuckles! Not bad.

The truck is back on the road, so that is what matters.

Hope this helps someone.
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Old 05-23-2007, 02:25 PM   #2
Burns
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Good job.




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Old 05-23-2007, 02:48 PM   #3
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Nice write up. I just set you up with 3 months of Elite Explorer privledges. I'll make this a sticky.




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Old 05-23-2007, 03:13 PM   #4
Dash Riprock
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Nice write up. I just set you up with 3 months of Elite Explorer privledges. I'll make this a sticky.
Hey thanks Rick. Really, with as much good advice and learning that Ive gleaned from this site, no reward was neccessary, but I appreciate it.
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Old 05-24-2007, 03:09 PM   #5
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Dash, this is a great write up. I really need to know how to troubleshoot this. Thanks a ton for doing this.




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Old 06-02-2007, 03:06 PM   #6
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Cool 95 XLT won't restart after running (occassionally)

Hi, I'm a new member with a question. I have a '95 XLT that I drive everyday. Now, on occassion (once or twice a week) won't start after driving it. I drove home from work one day last week, turned off the vehicle ran in the house came back out and the vehicle would turn over, but not start. I waited about 1/2 hour and tried again and still it would turn over but not start. After approx an hour I tried again and she started right up. Today the wife drive the vehicle to the grocery store. When she came out it started fine. She drove 2 blocks to another store, parked and turned it off and when she came back out the vehicle again would turn over wouldn't start. She waited and kept trying for about 15 minutes then finally it started. I had the fuel pump and filter replaced in March '07 and I was wondering if the pump could be defective and not function properly upon starting on occassion. Anyone have any ideas? Thank you!
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Old 06-04-2007, 05:09 PM   #7
Dash Riprock
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You may want to start an individual thread for this so you get better response. And do a search for "fuel pump", you will find alot of troubleshooting tips.

As for your problem, I dont really know if fuel pumps can be "intermittant". Alot of people believe they either work, or dont.

Do you get the fuel pump "hum" every time you turn the key to "On"? Does it hum during those times when it isnt starting?
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Old 11-29-2007, 06:44 AM   #8
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Just wanted to say a great big Thank You for this thread!!! The fuel pump went out in my 96 Explorer and I was looking for a detailed description on how to do the job and this was perfect! I was especially appreciative of the tip about the front bracket. I had already debated whether to remove the whole bracket or just the tank. I was also unsure of how to remove the filler hoses and whoila! it was here.

I was lucky enough to be able to get the fuel pump as a module, ie the pump came with the plastic housing. I just had to mount it to the bracket and splice the leads. I, too, had hoped for a simple remove/replace unit. Luckily, my brother is a diesel mechanic and had the proper tools/connectors to be able to make a good solid splice in the leads.
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Old 12-15-2007, 11:34 AM   #9
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The pump I bought for my 95 had the wrong plug so may watch what pump you get. I actually rewired the new pump and works great.

The biggest problem / PITA is the pump fittings.

Tim




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Old 03-26-2008, 08:31 PM   #10
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I have a 95 sport and also got the wrong electrical connector. Make sure you factor in whether your ex was made in the US, Canada or Mexico since apparently each connector is different.




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Old 12-10-2008, 06:07 PM   #11
tjones99
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1995 (95) Explorer XLT USA made 4 door. Son drove to the store, came out, would not start. Turning on the ignition I was not hearing fuel pump run. Check fuses, all fine. Checked relay, it was working (you can swap it with another to test too). Checked the inertia switch behind the carpet at the passengers feet, wasn't tripped. Decided it was the fuel pump or the wiring back to it.

Replaced the pump (long process, drop the tank, get the 6 M6 rusty bolts out of the hanger/sender/pump assembly, get the replacement pump at Napa, replace the pump, chose to solder and heat shrink rather than butt connectors. Put it back in the car, add gas, turn the ignition, hear the pump run, turn it over, no start.

Lower the tank a bit, disconnect fuel and return lines, turn on the ignition, pump runs, no fuel sprays out of the pump. Got to be a defective fuel pump I decide. Pull the tank AGAIN, this time with fuel still in, heavier with about 1/3 a tank but managed with two of us. Remove the pump/sender/hanger assembly to make 100% certain I wired red to red and black to black. Wired correctly. Drop the assembly back in and test run it wiht a battery. Fuel squirts out. What the hell? Decide there was an air bubble or something in the new pump. Put it in the car. It now starts and seems to run fine. Wife drives it all day, runs fine. Parks it in the driveway and that night we go to go out and it doesn't start. Pump runs, nothing. Just like before.

Unfortunately thats the stage I am at right now. I called Napa and they can provide a replacement, but my confidence is a little shaken in that brand of pump. is this a design issue or one defective pump? Is there any other possible explanation?

The only other thing to add is the pump input filter was bent. It is a plastic screen filter. In shipping the filter was bent upwards and now stays that way instead of being horizontal in the tank. Right now there is probably only 1/4 of a tank so I am wondering if this filter being bent up is allowing the pump to suck air from the surface like a snorkel or something. I will try adding more gas and see if that gets me operational, but I welcome any comments or tips and I will post a follow up once things are resolved for certain.
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Old 12-10-2008, 06:52 PM   #12
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Just a quick addendum to my last post.
I did test the old fuel pump when I had it out. No resistance testing with a meter. Applied 12v anyway, nothing, rapped the pump hard to see if it was intermittent brushes in the pump motor and it ran. The old pump was end of life for sure. I just wanted to make it clear that the problem with the new pump is different than the old.
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Old 12-11-2008, 07:42 AM   #13
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I want you all to notice how clean the underside of that 13 year old vehicle is. You just gotta love the Southwest!




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Old 12-11-2008, 05:46 PM   #14
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I want you all to notice how clean the underside of that 13 year old vehicle is. You just gotta love the Southwest!
wow...thought it was much newer. I can't believe his spring covered brakeline looks so new. Mine leaked and the spring coating was unrecognizable and broke into a corroded powder.
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Old 12-12-2008, 02:19 AM   #15
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Thats the first thing I said b4 I started reading- man thats clean under there........Mine had surface rust on about everything, this summer I spent a long time on my back with a tin of waxoil and have wire brushed it off, damp wiped it and painted it.......Rust is the dreaded thing in the UK- being damp, cold, rainy and in general not that good for cars.




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Old 12-14-2008, 08:36 PM   #16
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OK, further to my intermittent fuel pump issue meentioned before...
When I left off, the car was dead in the driveway at about 3PM. I had added 15l (3.5gal) of gas to see if that helped. No joy. I did the key on (without crank) then off cycle multiple times just to make sure if it was pumping there was pressure. I could hear the pump run each time.

At 9PM that night I went out and got 60l (15 gal) of gas in cans to fill the tank. Came home, set the gas down beside the truck and got in to look at what the gauge was reading from the earlier 15l I added. 1/4 tank... but wait, the pump came on when I did the key on to read the gauge and this time it sounded differrent. It loaded up with time... like it was under pressure... so I cranked it and it ran.

I drove to the gas station to fill it up (save the cans for an emergency...) and it took 56l so 56l now plus 15l before is 71l which is pretty much a complete tank, so earlier it had likely run out of gas, but that doesn't explain why after sitting for hours it then decided to work. I hadn't added any more gas since I had tried at 3PM.

All I can figure is that the pump is not priming when empty. Not a good thing to have happen should you ever run out of gas on the side of the road... have to sit there for hours waiting until it decides to prime...

I am open to theories.

I also have an email exchange going on with Airtex, the pump maker.
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Old 03-05-2009, 12:58 PM   #17
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Just reading that makes me want to sell my 1997.

This is my situation:

Read Ad on Craigslist for 1997 Explorer 4wd, $500,00 TOW AWAY.

Went to go see Tow Away Special - was bright enough to ask the owner about the strange engine noises he heard, took notes, and asked if he could jump start the dead battery "so I could hear them".

Meanwhile, as he is going to get the jumpers, I pull the dipstick out to see to my amazement a fill mark that nearly extended up to the handle of the stick - this guy must have put 5 gallons of oil in the engine. Jumpers connected - tried starting it. Nothing.

Tried a few times more - and it fired up - RAN SMOOTH!!!! Oil pressure gauge read half way, then fluttered down to ZERO. Valve tappet noises ticking away - yet the motor was running. Running smooth with 5 gallons of oil in the motor, and on bad gas several months old. I thought I had a deal. Bought it - had it towed home.

Went out and spent over $120 in filters and new oil for the motor, 4wd transfer case, and tranny. Was going to change all those items in time. Meanwhile - I filled up the tank and was driving around town with my $500 special. Felt secure enough with it that I took it out on the interstate and had it going 60mph smooth sailing. Was going to pick up a table about 40 miles away.

You must be wondering what I'm getting to. Well - here it is. The GRAND SURPRISE.
As I was nearing my stop 40 miles from home, I had to use the facilities (el bano). Stopped and turned off the truck at an ADVANCE AUTO PARTS place to go inside and do my stuff, and got back in to head off. That's when it hit the fan.

It cranked, and fired on one cylinder - barely. it cranked and cranked and cranked....like it was not getting any gas. I tried the fast quick fixes such as buying some gas in a can and filling the tank with a couple of gallons. Nothing.

I thought that my battery might be going bad - so I asked the Advance people to get a diagnostic scanner (note to self: always break down in the parking lot of car parts stores), and it read CLOSED FUEL LOOP, COOLANT TEMP TOO LOW. That's it. I asked them for a spare frsh battery and jumpers to try the battery start - no good. It cranked super fast but no fire in the cylinders.

Evidently I am not getting fuel (fuel pump) or not getting a spark (ignition module).

I want to try out the tricks to test the spark first - if its a fuel pump that *special* is getting sold. Anyone here well versed in the tricks of the trade to test out relays and jumpers to test ignition modules and fuel pumps?

mikepompura@yahoo.com
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Old 04-05-2009, 12:33 PM   #18
03Mach1
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Originally Posted by Dash Riprock View Post
Test lead from OBD I connector grounded - no fuel pump activation
I searched but could not find any info on how to do this. I am having a fuel issue with my little brothers 95 EB and would like to know it is the fuel pump before I drop the tank.

Also if I ground this connector(once I figure out how) will it get power to the fuel pump no matter what. IOW even if a relay, PCM problem exist, ect..ect.. will the pump still turn on?
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Old 04-14-2009, 03:00 PM   #19
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So I bought a Fuel Injection Pressure Tester.

On the fuel Rail there is a Schrader style (looks like a car/truck tire valve stem) valve with a blue cap on it. Unscrew this cap and you will see the valve. There was a fitting within the testing kit for the Schrader Valve. Upon connection after the truck had sat overnight there was only enough pressure to get the gauge to move BARELY off the low end stop. Upon turning the key and cycling it on and off for a few times the pressure only went up to about 3-5 psi. This was my indication that the Fuel Pump was dead in the water (or fuel actually). So I went and picked up a pump for $160 from Schucks. I was surprised to find it to be a Carter. Not the best but not the worst pump you can buy.


Now this is all from memory so you will have to bear with me if some of my sizes and tools are wrong...

I also usually have pretty detailed write-ups with pictures of every step. As I was getting rained on I hardly felt the need for this. =)

Tools you will need to replace the fuel pump...


3/8 drive ratchet, 3", 6", and 9" extensions and a universal joint (you will NEED the u-joint)
5/16" socket, 1/2" socket, 11/16" socket
5/16" Fuel Line Removal Tool
Needle Nose Pliers
Dielectric Grease
PB Blaster (or any penetrating oil)
Wire crimping tool
Floor jack and jack stands

Optional tools...

Fuel Injection Pressure Tester
Antisieze (any will do but I only use Copper based)


1. First off get the truck in the air as high as the stands will go. I just raised the rear of the vehicle by the Differential and set the stands under the rear axle as high as they would go. You don't really need the front of the vehicle in the air though. There is enough room to complete the task but having the front raised up would ease the pain a little bit.

2. First off you want to relieve the pressure in the system. (since you have no fuel pressure this should not apply but...) Remove your Fuel Pump Relay. Then start the vehicle like normal. It should fire then die. Now your Fuel System is relieved of pressure and you can remove the lines without getting blasted in the face by fuel. If your fuel pump is completely dead then you will not be able to do this. Mine was just barely pumping still so I went ahead and removed the fuel line going to the fuel filter from the tank with the fuel line disconnect tool. Stuck the hose into a gas can and turned the key on. This will pump the remaining fuel out of the tank. I highly suggest doing this as you will be lifting the tank back up for installation. If your pump has completely $#it the bed then siphon out your tank with a chunk of fuel line or whatever you have.

3. After emptying the tank you will want to take the gas cap off and remove the three screws holding the filler neck in place behind the gas door. These are a Star pattern or TORX bit style head. They also have a hex head on the outside. I believe it is 5/16". After removal stuff a shop rag in the filler neck and leave the gas cap off. I just left the three little screw in the filler area and closed the gas door.

4. Follow the filler neck down towards the tank. Above the rear wheel in the wheel well there is a steel strap that holds the filler tube in place also. Remove the 5/16" screw holding that in place also. Set it in the fuel door so you do not lose it.

5. Onto the Fuel Tank Protection Plate. There are 4 1/2" bolts holding this shield in place. Don't forget to spray them with PB Blaster before trying to remove them. They have been on the vehicle for a while and they also are a "Lock-Nut" style receiver clip for the bolt. They are hard to turn as it is and with corrosion they are even harder. They will break the tab if too much force is applied. Lube them up! With these 4 bolts gone the shield will drop down. Get it out from under the car and out of the way.

6. Onto Fuel tank removal. There are 2 11/16" bolts at the front of the fuel tank. You will see that one of the clips that hold the bolts for the shield is in the way. Take your needle nose pliers and release the tab on the clip to release the clip from the vehicle. It will slide right off. Remove the two 11/16" bolts. Now the tank will drop about an inch to its resting place within the mounting bracket. It will not go anywhere at this point. Here is where it is a good idea to have a friend with you. There is a strap going under the belly of the tank. You can find the bolt towards the center of the vehicle that holds it in place. Set a support under the rear of the tank and remove the bolt for the strap. The fuel tank should come down a little. Now you will have to keep the rear of the tank supported as there are connections that you do not want to have ripped out. There is one electrical connection running along the frame rail that has to be unclipped from the frame rail and disconnected. Take your time in looking at how this disconnects as you do not want to screw it up. There is also a vent that is the same size as the fuel line that needs to be disconnected. It has a little plastic retaining dillywhacker that has to be manipulated with your needle nose pliers to release. It is kind of like a plastic snap clip that holds the line to the tank. Again look at it and figure out how it works so you don't screw it up. Now you have the supply and return main lines for the fuel system itself. These are easy. Remove the metal clip and insert the 5/16" Fuel Line Disconnect Tool. These directly correlate front line off the frame rail to the front line on the tank and rear to rear. Now your tank should be free to drop. You will have to slide the tank towards the rear of the vehicle to get the front lip of the tank out of the mounting bracket. You will have to feed the Filler Neck and hoses down as you drop the tank though. Do not manhandle these too much as you do not want to screw these up but they can be fed through to drop the tank on the ground.

7. Now that the tank is on the ground you can access the Fuel Pump. There are 6 5/16" bolts holding the pump into the tank. Remove them. There is also another electrical connection going from the pump to the top of the tank study it closely and disconnect the connection. You will not be able to remove the pump unless it is disconnected. Now the Fuel Pump assembly is ready to come out. BE CAREFUL!!! The pump assembly has a float and a filter on the end of it. You have to weave it out of the tank as to not bend the fragile float arm. This is why you have to drop the tank onto the ground also. With everything in the rear still attached there is not enough room to remove the assembly. (Don't ask me how I know...)

8. Now that you have the Fuel Pump Assembly out you can replace the Fuel Pump. Cut the RED and BLACK wires closest to the Fuel Pump body ONLY! There will be 3 5/16" screws to remove to release the Pump from the assembly. The Fuel Lines just sit inside the pump so it should just slide right off with the screws removed. Now you will have to strip back the wires with your crimping tool. Slide the new Fuel Pump on and screw it back into place. Nest you will want to make the connection with the butt connectors provided in the new Fuel Pump. If your Pump did not come with new connectors you MUST make sure you use connectors the can withstand Fuel as they will be submerged for the rest of their life in Fuel. Make the connections RED to RED and BLACK to BLACK. Test your connections by trying to pull apart the wires at the butt connectors. If they come apart of wiggle at all start over with that connection. I like to crimp the outer parts of the butt connectors first then once in the middle. Don't be afraid to tug on these connectors as if they are faulty you will have to pull your tank again. Make sure they are good!!! You should have a new rubber gasket with the Fuel Pump. The stock gasket has rubber location pins that stick up through the top of the Fuel Pump Assembly. Clip those off and clean under the old gasket. The new gasket had a sticky side so I remove the adhesive backing and stuck it EXACTLY in the same place as the old gasket. Make sure the bolt holes line up before you stick it on because if you have to remove it it will tear. If it tears then get another one or reuse your old one. Do not install a torn gasket it will inevitably leak and you do not want leaks.

9. Stick the Fuel Pump Assembly with a new Fuel Pump back in the tank. Line up the bolt holes and tighten them all snug at first then go around again and tighten them until they seat. Do not overtighten them as you do not want to try and repair the threads in the tank. If you do manage to strip one of the bolts then you will just want to address the situation right then and there or it will cause you troubles down the road. Murphy's Law.

10. Now that the Fuel Pump Assembly is back in the tank and secure you will want to feed the filler neck up as you raise the rear of the tank. Once the rear of the tank is up you will want to support the rear of the tank with the front of the tank on the ground still. First off make all of your electircal connections. I ALWAYS fill ANY electrical connector with Dielectric Grease that I disconnect...ALWAYS! So pack the connector with Dielectric Grease and make the connections. If you did it right then you should have a little residual Dielectric Grease squishing out as you re-connect it. Remember there are two electrical connectors to re-connect. now you have your Fuel Vent Line. The plastic connector, if you didn't screw it up, should be reusable and snap back into place once the hose is pushed back onto the hard line. If you screwed up the retaining clip get a new one and install it. Do not just think it will stay there it will not. Now you have to connect your Fuel Lines. Push them on and confirm that you heard them "click" by trying to pull them off again. When both of them are on and have clicked then you must return the metal spring clips to their original positions. These clips are the same ones as you have to remove to replace the fuel filter. They look like they can fit both ways but there is only one correct way to install them. Make sure you get it right. Double check all of your electrical connections and all of your Fuel/Vapor Lines for solid attachment.

11. After all of your connections are made you can start the installation of the Fuel Tank again. Since the rear of the Fuel Tank is up in the air already all you have to do is lift the front up and slide it into the catch area of the mounting bracket. It should stay there once the whole tank is pushed forward. I installed the two front 11/16" bolts first then the Fuel Tank Strap. The strap was a pain to get the bolt threaded again but it finally went. This is another time when it is handy to have an extra set of hands. Once the strap is in make sure your filler neck is lined up and install the 3 screws for it. Don't forget the metal strap above the rear wheel in the wheel well to support the filler tube. The screw should have been with the 3 filler neck screws if you followed the instructions. =)

12. Since the tank is secure and all bolts have been checked for tightness you can move on to installation of the Fuel Tank Protection Plate. You should have an extra clip laying around that you removed for access to one of the front Fuel Tank Bolts. Reinstall the clip. Now you can install the Plate and 4 bolts. It couldn't hurt to apply some antiseize to these bolts as they are subject to the elements and will rust.

13. If you have a fuel Injection Pressure Tester now is the time to get it out. If you had previously tested the system pressure from the Fuel Rail then it should still be hooked up. =) Either or...Hook it up to the Fuel Rail VIA the Schrader Valve on top of the engine with a blue cap. If you removed the Fuel Pump Relay out of the Relay Box you will obviously need to replace it before turning the key. Now turn the key and listen for the fuel pump. It should pump and your Fuel Pressure at the Fuel Rail should raise slightly. Since there is only air in the line it will take a few cycles of the key to return the Fuel System to normal pressure. Cycle the key off and on about 10 times each time waiting for the Fuel Pump to stop every time. As you will see your Fuel Pressure will start to climb. Mine only reached about 30-35 PSI. Now cycle the key on and try to start your truck. If she fires up then break out the beer, bottle or whatever your preference is for celebration. If she doesn't fire then it sucks to be you!

End of line.

All in all this job was not hard but it was a pain in the @$$ to do. Especially not being able to get it to my shop where it is warm and dry. On a lift with 2 guys I could see where this could be narrowed down to a 1-2 hour job. Realistically plan on spending 3-4 hours if you are doing it on the ground by yourself.

I hope this write-up will help someone in the future. If it does you can buy me a beer! E-mail or PM me if you have any questions. E-mail would be better seeing how I do not own a Ford and probably won't be on this site too much.

generacerator@yahoo.com




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Old 04-22-2009, 11:36 PM   #20
FFATS357
Ledyard, Connecticut
'96 eddie bauer 4.0L 4wd
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
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I should've read these posts before attempting tank removal. i have to replace my fuel pump and filler neck, started to drop the tank and was met with hose connections ive never worked with before(was hoping regular screw clamps like radiator hoses) unsure i pushed and pulled on filler neck connections untill i broke the plastic clip which holds the line on the tank. now what? is my only option a new tank or can i still have hope on getting these lines off? on the plus side i did learn to be more careful with the pump lines and got the tool needed to remove those without incident. i know i messed up but any help would be apreciated.
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